Providing the EGR isn't currently stuck open just remove the electrical connector, the EGR will remain closed. It will of course case an MCSF alert.

Won't do any harm to the ECU/Engine.

Having said that the only way to clean the inlet manifold properly is to take it off, what's your plan to clean it during normal driving?

Good luck

Pub.

 

Then after certain number of kilometers I will put back EGR valve when the i.manifold is clean.

Why bother?

If you absolutely must, at least fit a restrictor plate to limit the flow... But you're much better off just getting rid of it completely.

 

where did you read that? which forums

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pubsinger# All I need to do is to remove the electrical connector while the car is turned off? There is no a plan. The theory is that all this soot will burn out with more aggressive driving.

alfafrv# I did not find it on the forum,I met a couple of people at a common mechanic,who did this with egr off.And then after a while they looked i.manifold-clean.

_The_Editor_ # For now I do not want to do anything related with software/ecu change I like everything to be as the factory predicted.

I'd like to try this and if it works great,if not then next solution is decarbonisation.

 

pubsinger# All I need to do is to remove the electrical connector while the car is turned off?

Correct, normal position for the EGR is closed, if you remove the connector it can't open.

The theory is that all this soot will burn out with more aggressive driving.

Not a hope in hell of that happening, why would fresh air 'burn' off soot? The build-up in the manifold is a combination of the oily deposits that leak past the turbo mixing with the soot from the EGR, once it's there it's staying there.

All the best

Pub

 

when I cleaned my intake manifold it took good few hours of soaking, brushing, scratching, swearing and so on and I still got carbon deposits left in areas I couldn't reach with long flat screwdriver.
I wonder how are you going to burn that crap out with just closed EGR valve

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Even I do not know if that's possible. Perhaps a combination of high air pressure with high temperature can gradually remove the layer of that thing in manifold.

 

Krtola

Send me your bank details please, I have an inheritance I need to share with you.

 

Without commenting that cleaning method...

You won't dagame ECU.

it's not recommended to drive hard (WOT, full pedal) because without software upgrade engine suffers great overboost, it's dangerous for turbo, head and more.

 

Why would it over boost ? Boost is controlled by the MAP sensor independently of anything else, shouldn't have anything to do with the EGR being blanked. The EGR MCSF light is just to tell you you're polluting the planet rather than it having anything to do with causing other engine problems. If it caused overboost the engine would go into limp mode together with an MCSF overboost code, which doesn't happen when the EGR is blanked.

 

Ok tnx for advice.

 

It won't clean the inlet manifold, which after a few years is lined with a sticky tar made of soot from the EGR + oil mist from the turbo. Really. It's like sh*t stuck to a blanket. Blocking the EGR will only stop it getting thicker and worse.

Ideally you want to remove the manifold and clean it, and delete swirl flaps if fitted as well. They serve no useful purpose once the EGR is blanked. They cause no end of trouble.

Just doing that fixes most things that go wrong with these engines.

The MCSF is harmless, but might mask some other fault that occurs, which is why it's a good idea to map out a deleted EGR. Autolusso sell the blanking plate + software and a lead to DIY, by post. Or, allegedly the EGR cheaters sold on eBay do actually work.

This overboosting theory makes no sense. The EGR valve closes (and swirl flaps open) by 2k rpm. EGR is an attempt to reduce NOx emissions at and near idle by restricting the amount of oxygen available by mixing with exhaust gas. That is, EGR is a horrible kludge aimed at deliberately degrading combustion efficiency, whilst filling up the intake with soot.

Cue swirl flaps, which attempt to restore some of the degraded efficiency by causing better mixing of air and exhaust with fuel. Basically the swirl valves shut 4 of the 8 inlet ports and cause assymetric flow into the combustion chamber to create turbulence. These systems only work at all at low revs.

If your EGR was open at higher revs, never mind messing up boost mapping you'd be lucky to reach 30mph because efficiency would be hopeless. You'd be shovelling in fuel that couldn't be burned in the O2 depleted air.

In other words, cars without EGR and swirls are only a bit 'dirtier' at low revs - and of a standard that was perfectly acceptable a few years before. Above low revs it's exactly the same as a car with EGR and swirls fitted and working.

 

The OP has stated it's a 2004 GT, so will be CF3 and won't have swirl flaps.

 

I tried only one day to test car without EGR valve by removing connector from EGR.
Let me point out that the car was not driven just turned on and left to work in neutral.

I started the car and turned it off several times and in the beginning the car did not give any warning/error.
When I turn on car for the fifth time error appeared: Motor Control System Failure.

I have returned connector on EGR. Error continues to appear next day while I drive the car,but suddenly error disappears when I filled the tank with fuel.

For now I have decided taking the car on HHO decarbonization.
There is a special method to clean intake manifold,egr and valves.

 

The only way to clean inlet is to remove and scrub the hell out of it,all doing away with egr will achieve is a management light and gunk not getting any worse. Don’t waste your time faffing about unplugging it for what you need,remove inlet clean it out,blank egr and get it mapped out. That’s exactly what I am doing with my 159. I think as someone already pointed out the threads are naff for egr valve so won’t stand up to repeated removal. I have just had to helicoil and loctite studs in to the housing for my egr.

 

Which material I should use for egr holes blanking?
And about softwer egr delete-that procedure is short time work or need 2-3 hours?
Is it recomended to add 15-20 hp after egr delete?
Can extra 20hp on GT 1.9 110kw cause problem with turbocharger?