I've got a 2.0 T.S. but had the same problems with the engine cutting out at junctions - ended up slowing the car with the gears and clutch to push the revs up and stop it stalling.

Anyway - after reading a few threads I've replaced the crank sensor on mine. So far it hasn't stalled (but it has only been in for a couple of days) - the revs still drop at a junction, but no cut out.

Cheapest place I found was Car Exhausts, Exhaust Systems, Car Parts & Discount Exhaust Parts - mine cost just over £20 + Vat, but they rip you off with £10 courier delivery - for something that would easily fit in a Jiffy Bag!

Also the sensor they supplied was slightly too big for the hole (and I phoned them to check it was the right one)! Rather than go through the hassle of sending it back I sanded mine down until it fitted.

 

Woah - the link for onlineautomotive in my last post just went weird!

 

My 2.0 TS currently has the same issue, unfortunately for me it is intermittent.
The car can go for a week with no issues, then spend a couple of days cutting out exactly as you described.
Bloody dangerous at junctions with the loss of power steering and so on, so I took mine to the garage.

They diagnosed the "Idle Control Valve", they replaced it, plus a reset/relearn. This didn't cure it.... so a bit of a waste of £230.

Had it back to them last week, but unfortunately the car was behaving itself that day... so they couldn't find anything wrong with it.

I'd be interested to see what the final cure is, because with it not storing an error, replacing parts at random will work out very expensive.

 

had similar problems on my 155. Never really got it sorted before I stacked it, but cleaning then replacing the idle control valve, changing the Airflow meter and a new Lambda didn't sort it.

Next on my list was new sparkplugs which I was told could be the problem.

BTW, £230 for an idle valve sounds extortionate!

 

Check for splits in the intake hoses - Mine has been doing something similar recently and while changing the air filter today I found a rather large split in the hose

 

Just discovered that the Crankshaft sensor isn't the problem! After a couple of days of behaving after replacing it, the car stalled again!

 

The timing could have been set incorrectly after the rebuild. Who did the engine rebuild?

 

Thanks to all of you for replying!
I did a thourough check of the intake today, engine running, and when wiggling the intake hose around, I was able to almost stall it manually...
The previous owner ditched the airbox, so it's basically just a longer intake pipe with an open filter on the end now. And this is 'fastened' by a piece of string to the bracket over the throttlebody.
I'll replace this monstrocity with a BMC CDA system when funds allow, hopefully that'll cure some problems.

@Pud:
It was done by a reputable Alfa specialist here in Norway.

I'll try and post a youtube of the engine running.


Here's the Youtube video of my engine running!

 

Does it still have the air flow meter in??

 

AFM is in, the aftermarket filter is just plugget onto it.

Any comments on the idle?

 

I have the exact same problem. I changed the AFM but that made no difference. It still stalls at lights etc. Im going to take it to the garage next week. A lot of poeple said it was probably the Lamba sensor.

 

Hi, did anyone ever get to the source of the stalling problem?

 

Did anyone get to the bottom of this? Mine has been doing it for months and failed the MOT yesterday on emissions. It is also using more petrol than normal.

 

Cutting out

I have a similar problem on my 2.0 spider. When it first happened I replaced the air filter and that seemed to help for about 3-4 months then it happened again fairly often and usually slowing on a corner. I have just replaced the Lambda sensor and althouth the revs don't bounce around as much it still cuts out but it is a bit better but definitely not cured. I thought about the spark plugs but as it runs brilliantly apart from cutting out when slowing I don't think its the plugs or it would be misfiring. Given the range of parts which we have all collectively replaced it does appear a mystery?

Austin

 

Having been searching for similar threads on the site I came accross one that was recommended removing the air intake pipe at the throttle control air flow and using carb cleaner to clear off the tar etc. from the butterfly which needs to be held open manually....I tried this out spraying liberal amounts of cleaner into the system. Took the car out and it seems fine...no cutting out and no bouncing rev counter....didn't zero once. It actually felt reliable when slowing for the first time in ages...fingers crossed it lasts..try it out if you have a similar problem only takes 15 minutes and its cheap!

 

I had the stalling cutting out problem when slowing and at idle. Took car to couple of alfa specialists who did diagnostics checks.

One claimed MAF the other said Lambda. Had both items replaced but problem remained!!

Tried the carb cleaner on throttle body butterfly however when removing rubber concertina pipe from throttle body to plastic resonator tube found big splits between the concertina rings (can't see very easily when pipe is fitted but very visible when removed).

I wrapped pvc electrical tape around as temporary fix. Running problem was instantly cured! I left tape on for quite sometime (forgot about it after a while). Eventually tape also split and problem returned - re-application of tape cured it again.

The running problem (cutting out/erratic tickover) varies in severity due to movement of engine when braking/slowing, turning etc. Splits in pipe open and close accordingly. That's why problem rarely occurs at speed.

This piece of hose is poor design it flexes and fatigues prematurely due to engines natural movement (is too short).
Replacement pipe (only available from alfa) cost £75ish+vat and only comes with plastic resonator box (not needed). I've now fitted alloy and silicone hose items at cost of £50 (replaced/got rid of resonator box altogether).

 

I have just been to an alfa specialist to get a view on what could be wrong with it. They hooked it up to the diagnostics machine and recon its the Lambda sensor so I am going to have that changed along with a service. They also checked the intake pipes which appeared to have no cracks.

Like I said earlier it failed the MOT on emmisions so I hope this solves the problem. I've already spent £600 trying to get it through the MOT! Alfa's are expensive :S

 

Yep that's just what they told me too diagnostics machine read lambda and mechanic said could see no splits in the pipe. I actually had two Lambda's fitted because the next garage I took it to said same. When I pointed out I'd already had new one fitted recently they said it could be faulty or messed up with cheap supermarket fuel (mmmmm??) but gave benefit of doubt. When still did not cure problem they did refit old Lambda and fitted new MAF which improved running slightly for a while (in reality probably just moved the intake pipe and closed the split a little when fitting the MAF).
As mentioned above it's very difficult to see splits in pipe when it's fitted because concertina sections are squashed/compressed together. You need to remove this completely and bend open to check down in bottom of crevices.
I'm not saying your problem isn't Lambda - it could well be but your symptons are very similar to mine. Also worth noting many diagnostics equipment are quite crude with their readings (not that accurate to specific components) typically excessive weak or rich mixtures are diagnosed as Lambda or MAF faults when in fact it could be leaking pipe. My advise is remove the intake pipe (that attaches to throttle body) and give it a good check just to be sure before forking out on new lambda's MAF's etc

Hope you get it sorted soon without too much more expense - Let us know how you get on and if new Lambda cures the problem

 

Cheers mate I will do that before I get the work done. However, I think I will still need it changed due to the emissions being very high, it could be the cat I suppose but I don't even want to think about that yet!!

 

They arent to pricey - you can pick one up for around £100.
Mine needs doing at the minute

 

I don't normally believe in the usual run of 'snake oils', but when the runabout Skoda I have started doing this I changed plugs etc. and finally in desperation used Wynns injector cleaner and within 5 miles it had worked its magic! Perhaps a pure coincidence, but then I checked with the former owner and he had the same problem every two years and had come up with the same answer which he claimed worked every time. Worth a try.

 

John 876 do try the carb cleaner solution, my 2.0 litre was doing the same as yours but changing the lambda sensor made little difference. Its probably something to do with 'clean air' as, when I changed the air filter it was fine for about 3-4 months then started cutting out again. I used carb cleaner 2 days ago and its the first time in ages it hasn't cut out when slowing. I think the crap builds on the butterfly air intake and richens the mixture. A can of cleaner is only about £5 and the job is simple 15 minutes.

 

Hi, I checked all my intake pipes yesterday and no cracks in any although they are wearing. I then tried the carb cleaner which so far has worked a treat. I drove it to work and back lastnight and didn't stall once. I'm going to change the air/oil filters on sunday and give it a full oil change. Hopefully this will help aswell.

Thanks for the help.