Depends on what model speakers.

Higher quality component speakers will have a passive crossover that both filters out the treble/high frequencies going to the midbass woofer (ie: lowpass filter), and filters out the midrange-down/low frequencies going to the tweeter (ie: highpass filter).

Entry level speakers may only have a HP for the tweeters (like the factory setup).

Unless you install the complete set of components, you'll never achieve the optimal sound they were designed for. Won't necessarily be terrible, but you know, why would you?

 

great cheers, I have some Rainbows....just thought about avoiding the fitting of tweeters. Seen plenty of threads on door speakers but not much on tweeters..they look as if the just unclip from the dash....

 

Just getting ready to fit some components. They come with an inline crossover. Rather than faf round with the wiring through plugs etc (either opening up the loom in the kicker panels, or wiring the cables back through) , I was wondering if it's ok the split the crossover? Looks like a simple inline job, with a split to the tweeter/ woofer. It's got a capacitor for the high pass and what looks like two components (wrapped up, assume some inductor)) for the low pass.

First thought was buying a new capacitor to just put inline with the tweeters in the OEM position. The capacitor is 100v but reads "3 u 3" ( u= micro farads). Not seen that notation before, is it
3.3uF,or 3uF?
So thought I would just de solder the capacitor and move it, but would that effect the low pass filter?


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Photos?

A typical passive crossover like you described can be split. Indeed, the high pass filter will be the capacitor. 3.3uF would provide an usually high crossover point; referring to charts, that would be around 12kHz. The usual HP crossover point is about 3-5kHz.

What brand and model are the component speakers? Might be able to find the specs.

Regardless, splitting up the crossover is feasible.

 

Hi,
this is the crossover, it's on a JBL gt6-6c (on offer ). I thought it was a little high too. might be a multiplier or something?

Edit: On the speaker specs the impedance is missing, if it was an 8Ohm speaker, 3.3uF would give a cross over point of around 6,000Hz, about the right spot.

 

I've done a quick search for specs, but info is limited. They are meant to be 4ohm speakers 'as a set', but it's quite possible the tweeters are 8ohm. Some brands do this, mixing and matching impedence of individual drivers (eg: Dynaudio also do it, with their 8ohm midrange in amongst their 4ohm 3-way component speakers).

If you have a multimeter, you could measure the DC resistance of the tweeter (aka the 'Re'). The Re is always a little lower than the (average) impedence, so if it's an 8ohm tweeter, the Re might be about 6ohm. But certainly expect it to be higher than 4ohm; if it's a 4ohm tweeter, the Re might be around 3~3.5ohm.

Looking at your photo, I think you could divide it up. What's on the reverse side? It might be obvious that the two input wires (red/black) simply divide up via circuit board tracks to the two halves.

 

Just de-soldered the capacitor, written on the circuit board underneath it was 3.3uF (answers that question then! ).
I've a multimeter, placed it on the Ohm reading...got 33Ohms for both!?!? Bizarre!

Any tips on removing the tweeters? Simply yank them out?
cheers

Edit: Just had a play, the small grill for the tweeters pulls out with some clips, by removing my new tweeter dome covers, they just about fit in the hole for the old tweeters. Interestingly the capacitor for the OEM tweeters is ...3.3uF too!
Not fitted them yet, but have a good understanding of the space available for the tweeters and capacitors for when I do fit them. Wanted to avoid splicing leads and wires, but looks like its the only way forward for the tweeters

 

Got the speakers fitted, thanks to the advice here and on other threads (re: door card).

Pretty easy job, I purchased aftermarket custom fit speaker adaptors, ones designed for the 147 and Fiat Croma (05) should fit also! I purchased some dynamat type stuff and stuck it around the adaptor to beef it up a little. The stuff I got was pretty rubbery, so I used to to form a gasket between the speaker- adaptor and adaptor-door, hopefully will seal a little better that way.

For the wiring, I used a Connects2 CT55-AR02 wiring plug adaptor (£4.99 OFF E-BAY). Meant I didn't have to splice the plug (great for if I turn it back to normal, and avoids worries about Pos/Neg).

Only issue was the plug is designed to fit on the outside of the OEM speakers, and clearly aftermarket clip on the back of the speaker, so second advantage in using the Dynamat as a gasket as it gave space to pass the wire through.

Only had a quick play, but already noticed a nice improvement in the bass, still need to sort the tweeters though.