Cool, but wouldn't it be safer/easier to unbolt the whole badge first?

 

Looking at the state of the badge that came off, it looks like you put the nail in above centre rather than below, as in your instructions.
Are the instructions with the benefit of hindsight having discovered the indent below the middle?
Did the new one have an adhesive backing or did you glue it on?

Did you consider fitting one of the new style badges?
I still can't decide whether I like the new ones or not...

 

Regarding the ease/safety of removing the whole badge unit first:
1) the rim around the badge is still part of that unit so would be at as much risk of damage in either situation
2) it would have been a longer job

I did go above the center like a tool yes so had to sand it down a bit to ensure the surface was smooth. At least it was all hidden after the job was done thankfully. That's the main reason behind my post as the image without the badge shows clearly where you can start 'attacking' from. Always good to learn from peoples mistakes too.

The Badge I got came with an adhesive backing so it was straight forward.

I never looked into any other badge styles to replace this as I personally am one of those in the 'keep it original' group. The only exception to this will be when I magic up enough money to replace the head unit for something decent.

 

Using a hairdryer/heat gun prior may help loosen the glue?

 

I just replaced mine this afternoon and found that the badge didn't need much encouragement to loosen, certainly not the front anyway.

The rear badge was a bit more stubbon.

 

Yeah agree with barners, no need for hairdryer. Just a bit of the backing remained after removing the badge so scraped off with fingernail.

Going do rear badge shortly so hopefully it wont be too mich trouble either.

 

Harribone - I used a slightly different technique for the rear.

There isn't a hole behind the badge for a nail (or other sharp implement) to go into. The way I found easiest was to get a small flat-head screwdriver and ease it under the rim of the badge from the bottom, again with a cloth to protect the silver outer ring. If you push the top of the badge in, as if to open the boot, it should tilt the bottom out enough to get a very thin screwdriver in, then you can slowly work it upwards behind the badge to start prising the badge away.

I was a bit too pre-occupied to think about taking photos as I went, but here is a before and after:

 

Went for the easy option on the G and stuck it on the original. Easy to back to original too when I want the colour back.

 

Does the badge sit OK when you stick it over the original? Looks OK from the image though.
What is holding the badge in place? Will it cause damage to the original if you ever do remove the B&W one?

 

I have done my rear one now and on the push type you can go through the badge with a nail if you want, there is a small indent in the center which you can work with. I did this before I saw your post barners about approaching this from the edge but I still would have gone with the nail approach because id rather scratch the area which would be hidden than the edge, great job though with yours!

The only issue I found with the rear is that my badge didn't sit right, the push button was slighty to big for it to rest on perfectly. The basic guid I got with the badge suggested adding a layer of double sided tape to the back of the badge to help this but I decided to bend the egde of the badge out a little so it would fit correctly over the push button. This also meant I had the remove the little tab on the badge which is used to help line it up. I managed to rest the badge on and then used a spirit level to get the center line of the logo vertical before pressing into place.

Note For anyone who is reading this with a view to changing theirs - the indent in the center is for the push type Brera badge only. I have no idea what the standard badge is like underneath and with the 159 I know that the push type is a different part so might not be the same.

 

Good stuff.

Take it you are going to do rear badge and wheel caps to match?

 

Excellent guide dude, I'm still torn between the new badge and the original, this week it's back to favouring the original.

 

Yep, I'm favouring the original also.
Just far more interesting with the colours, and catches the eye more.

 

Well it certainly does catch the eye. But any new badge will. Ive become so used to the faded badges that the new ones look kinda wrong!

Once ive done the wheel caps though it should all look right.

 

Nice video, badge replacement

 

Thanks for that, easy! I used a chisel to gently make a hole & peel the old badge off, and for gentle scraping of the leftover glue etc. Not perfect but it'll do,it just remains to be seen how long they last ?Photos can be seen here My badge replacements