Boot can be opened from inside, there is a little lever by the catch. If you managed to get your work gear out you should be able to get to the catch. The manual shows where it is. Once done try cycling the fob/badge push. If no luck you could remove plastic cover and investigate. It may be wiring inside the rubber bellows between hatch and body is damaged.

 

Boot can be opened from inside, there is a little lever by the catch. If you managed to get your work gear out you should be able to get to the catch. The manual shows where it is. Once done try cycling the fob/badge push. If no luck you could remove plastic cover and investigate. It may be wiring inside the rubber bellows between hatch and body is damaged.

I dont have such a thing to open the boot from inside ?

 

Can you hear any tiny-motor noise happening when you plip your key-fob?

If you can't then the first thing to do is to check the fuse.

It's possible the icy weather froze that tiny motor & so - to stop it from becoming Burnt-out, the fuse burnt instead....

Well - that's what surely is supposed to happen: - The fuse is the deliberate weak-link ; - designed to fail rather than the item(s) it 'protects' . And a tuppenny fuse is cheaper than a new motor.

 

fuses protect wiring from over currents, not appliances

 

Armoore - ta for that tip, I couldn't see the latch from inside at the time, scrambling about like an arthritic monkey but duly noted thanks!

Sudagiulietta - no motor noise whatsoever, will check the fuse tomorrow - many thanks for your swift replies chaps ;O)

Have to say the annoying 'glitch' with the bootlock hasn't dampened my ardour for the little red Italian beastie, after blipping the keyfob to lock it up I still turned round and gave it 'that' look before walking away

 

Pretty sure the cables are faulty. A lot of giuliettas have this problem. Either the lock stops working, or one of the lights...
How old is your giulietta?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

A in the diagram is the release. This diagram is taken from the handbook.

 

I see, I thought there is a button on dashboard to open the boot, like some other cars..

 

There's a light to tell one that It Is Open - but not one to operate it.

 

-You should warm up your key with a lighter and then try to open the boot manually with hot key.. (Turkish style)
- Spray alcohol or antifreeze on key and open the boot manually by the key.. ( British style) :lol:

 

Right - had a look at it.... I opened the boot manually from the inside as per TontGr's diagram from the handbook, the wiring from the body to bootlid doesn't appear damaged or twisted and the rear wiper still works fine so power is getting through. Closed the boot again and tried opening manually and with the keyfob but still no joy there and still no noises. Resorting once again to the handbook, looking at the fuseboxes in the engine bay and below the dash on the drivers side - couldn't identify which (if any) of these fuses applies to the bootlock. The handbook says the third fusebox (hidden in the boot somewhere but I can't see where) can only be accessed by authorised AR types...! The handbook doesn't identify which fuse I'm looking for...

Jakob - my G is a 12 plate, coming up to two years old.

 

My guess would be any of fuse numbers F31, 37, 49 or 51 noted as various devices and located on the dashboard fuse panel :thumbs:

 

Happened to me too. It is the cabling and is due to the lightweighting of the loom which reduced the wire diameter/quality. It snaps inside the covering so you won't see any break. I left mine for a while and then the rear wash wipe failed too!
The Alfa solution is to splice in a section of wiring where the break is, however the specialist I use (NJS) recommended running thicker cables the entire length of the car. The wash wipe was on the drivers side and the boot lock on the passenger side so the interior was in bits but it really wasn't that expensive!

 

actually, thicker wires/insulation (of the same material) is more likely to break when folded.

 

Its the only solution?

 

Thanks for the further replies folks - I'll have another look at the fuses tomorrow and see what's what

 

Any joy ?

The weather's got colder since then....

 

sounds as thought the microswitch on in the boot button has failed. Mine was faulty from new and had it replaced. also check that the relay is working.

 

Hi did you find which fuse it was or did it require a wiring fix

Mine is now behaving the same , won't open with switch or key fob, lights flash but there is no sound in boot area

 

Any luck in having this resolved? My beautiful Giullieta QV is doing this to, the brake light also not working!

 

We've had this and seems to happen when the battery is running down. Car still opens but the boot wont.
Maybe get a battery check as it may need replacing.

 

If it was battery going , I would expect that start / stop would not engage ? , in my case Start / Stop seems to be fine

What was your experience ?

 

I was about to resurrect this thread as well! I went to get into my boot yesterday and it didn't want to open! I tried both the fob and the button on the tailgate and neither would work! Anyhoo I have booked it in with my local Auto electrician who is going to look at it. He has been dealing with another G with the same problem so is well aware of the issue.

And for anyone lurking our there who thinks "typical Alfa Romeo"... he said a lot of cars of all makes have these types of issues!

 

And for anyone lurking our there who thinks "typical Alfa Romeo"... he said a lot of cars of all makes have these types of issues!

He's correct - Tailgate wiring issues are common across various manufacturers and models.

 

Having mine fixed Friday at Alfa Tecnico, will report how it goes.

 

All sorted I am a happy man , 1 hours labour and everything works again , thanks to the guys at Alfa Tecnico

I am surprised just how thin the wires are , its a bit of a disgrace really any way all replaced in the boot area with better quality wires

:smile:

 

Hi,

I have now the same problem. I'm not sure if I understand what the solution of the problem was? Change of cables in the boot??

Br
AK Norway

 

I had the problem with mine fixed (finally) when it was serviced and MOT'd last week but I've just been out in it, come back, blipped the keyfob and the same problem has happened again! Spoke to the chap who looked at it and he said it's fixable long term by replacing part of the loom at a cost of £200 - £250. I need to use the car for work later which means it'll be sat in the works car park unlocked overnight.... I love driving the car but am actively looking at replacing it now.

Anyone wanting a 32k miles three year old 1.6 Lusso in metallic red with tan leather seats and 5-hole alloys PM me!

 

I had the problem with mine fixed (finally) when it was serviced and MOT'd last week but I've just been out in it, come back, blipped the keyfob and the same problem has happened again! Spoke to the chap who looked at it and he said it's fixable long term by replacing part of the loom at a cost of £200 - £250. I need to use the car for work later which means it'll be sat in the works car park unlocked overnight.... I love driving the car but am actively looking at replacing it now.

If you are near Junction 28 on the M1 give Alfa Tecnico ago , sorted my problem for £60 , and did all the stupidly thin wires at once not had a problem since

 

See the post I put in stickies under faults etc.

 

Afraid I can't find your post armoore, I can't seem to open fully any other page on the forum except this one for some reason - everytime I click on other pages / threads the page jumps about all over the place then freezes and I have to reboot my PC (all the other forums I'm on such as Pistonheads etc are ok though).

 

My post in stickies shows the two loom repair kits I bought from Germany. They come complete with the rubber gaiter and connections on both ends of the wires so they can be spliced in neatly, even have the extra bit of tubing for the rear washer. The important thing is that the wires are covered with silicone rubber insulation and are therefore very flexible. You could replace just the wire(s) that have broken with suitable gauge wire. Not had to use mine (yet).

 

Thanks for your helpful replies gents - duly noted :thumbup:

The problem righted itself this morning but I'll be keeping an eye on it. The G will be up for sale soon anyway so hopefully it'll carry on working.

 

Same issue?

I have the same issue! Everything working fine in the tailgate area, except for boot open via button or key. I can't hear anything, so can't rule out a motor failure, cable or fuse. I quickly popped out the grommets holding the cable on the left and it visibly looks sound - no sign of stretch etc. My current bet would be on the button motor having failed. Does anyone know the fuse number for certain?

 

I have the same issue! Everything working fine in the tailgate area, except for boot open via button or key. I can't hear anything, so can't rule out a motor failure, cable or fuse. I quickly popped out the grommets holding the cable on the left and it visibly looks sound - no sign of stretch etc. My current bet would be on the button motor having failed. Does anyone know the fuse number for certain?

Hi , I suspect it still is the cables , when I had my problem , I too check the cables under the rubber covers and saw no issues, however in the Garage when they pulled the cable slack out there were several very fine cables that were snapped, these are the issue