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Bleeding cooling system following EGR cooler replacement

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4.9K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  K1pper  
#1 ·
Hi all,

Had a tiny leak on my EGR cooler and spent best part of Sunday and Monday replacing it.
Pig of a job, 6" long torx bits really helps, ended up removing the part (just this was quite a feat!) from the top of the engine after bending the oil dipstick out the way. Dealing with the metal bracket that attaches to the underneath of the cooler housing was also a nightmare.

Following changing the part I topped the header tank up with coolant and ran the car for 5 minutes. I managed to find 2 bleed screws, 1 on the thermostat (blue screw) and one near the bulk head with a large black plastic screw. A little air came out the blue screw but none from the black one.
The level was still above max in the header tank so left the car idling for 5 minutes (still not up to temperature although gauge was showing temp slowing increasing as normal) then took it out carefully for about 1 mile. I turned the heater onto max but it was blowing cold air and checked the header tank before heading back. The car was now up to usual running temp, just over 90°C. I accelerated hard up to just over 2k rpm and on the 3rd pull the temp gauge shot up to max and the warning light came on the dash so I turned the heater off and coasted home with my foot on the clutch (the temperature returned to normal fairly quickly after this) for the short distance home.
There was still some coolant in the header tank although below minimum so I topped this up again and bled the blue and black valve, this time air only came out the black valve. I squeezed a hose until coolant came out the valves before tightening.

Once again I took the car a couple of hundred metres down the road with the heater running (now producing hot air) and checked the levels and bled again with no change, repeated and the car seems to be running fine.

Hopefully no damage done and the temperature sensor got upset with the airlock!

Can anyone let me know the procedure for bleeding the cooling system and if I am missing any bleed valves for the 2L JTDM-2 please so that I can unsure it is properly bled?

Sorry for the long winded post:rolleyes:
 
#2 ·
One on the thermostat housing (as you found) and one on the radiator if I recall correctly. It’s been a while since I did mine so I don’t remember how much I got out of them. I think I also turned the heater all the way up and let it idle up to temperature; I do recall the level dropping when I first removed the header tank cap.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I've not done this on a G but are the bleed valves necessary, I think there is one behind the engine as well ? Leave the radiator bleed valve open as stated until up to temperature and up to correct level in coolant tank. Heater on high and fan on low. I think just idling it rather than driving is good advice.
 
#5 ·
I can give that a go, one of the neighbours kicks off when I leave it running so will need to wait until they are out😤

Had to drive home a couple of miles tonight, took it real easy. Was fine until I turned the heater fan onto full and saw the temperature drop to about 45°C so still something going on.

Will try and idle it tomorrow with the rad valve open as advised and keep a close eye on it.