My choice is the Agip TurboDiesel Evolution...100% sintetico....5W-40

p.s;the only problem is that they did stop making it as far as I am told...as almost all big oil manufactures are going to make only two or three engine oils...and they will stop making oils just for diesels or petrol cars :-(((

So what I am doing now is adding Bardahl Long Life 6 in 1...to the engine oil...or for less tuned engines you can use just their Turbo Protect oil additive.

 

Depends on what do you mean by the best - oil longevity? cleaning property? low friction? You can't have it all.

For high performance and the best lubrication under any circumstance I would stick with ester based synthetic rather than hydrocracked synthetic ones. Personally I'm using the Miller Oils CFS 10W-50 in my JTD. But this would be probably a waste of money on unmodded engine.

 

Whats that like on a cold start?
I can see the 50 as hot engine protection , but is the 10 a little thick on a cold start whats the noise difference like from a 5w40
I use a 0w40 as most of my comute to work is cool engine on a fairly short journey at 8 miles.
No cats or egr to worry about and still change oil at 6000 miles or less.

 

Never had a problem with it. But have to mention I'm preheating the engine during winter. It's also quieter with the 10W-50.

My car was running on 5W-40 most of its life, but I think the camshaft suffered that.

 

"Depends on what do you mean by the best - oil longevity? cleaning property? low friction? You can't have it all.

For high performance and the best lubrication under any circumstance I would stick with ester based synthetic rather than hydrocracked synthetic ones. Personally I'm using the Miller Oils CFS 10W-50 in my JTD. But this would be probably a waste of money on unmodded engine. "

Don't care for price or longevity (I change oil at 10000miles max). I'd say cleaning is good and low friction too.

There aren't really cold starts where I live, coldest temperatures possible in winter are arround 0º and these are rare, most of the times it's arround 5º at worst, and 30º at summer.

 

Some interesting stuff - http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

(Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 is what I had used before - no suprise the camshaft worn )

 

After reading the test that'll be the last time i use it also..


That royal purple looks quite handy, what millers do you use yan.ko

 

I think i'm going with the CFS 10w-50 NT, let's see if I can notice any change on the engine running sound.

 

If you would go for Millers, I suggest you their 10w-40 first. Mine engine is nearly ten years old and has over 200tkm on clock so it's probably worn more than yours. But definitely I wouldn't take anything lower than 10W at your climate.

 

I have 98 000km, it's not that bad yet 7 years and a few months.

CFS 10w-40 is does not have nano drive and it isn't ultra low friction, that's why I thought on the 10w-50NT. Why do you recommend the 40 over 50?

Thanks!

 

Maybe thinking Too new an engine with little wear and tight clearances perhaps the 50 wouldnt flow into tight clearances or push oil pressure too high ?

 

with no cats or DPf, i'd use an ACEA E4 or E7 oil these are specified specifically for ultimate protection.

 

Yes I agree. I would use a mixed fleet synthetic HDEO 5w40 like Mobil Delvac 1 5w40.

And don't be suckered by the one arm bandit test. I think Amsoil has a video out there explaining how this machine works and how it can be manipulated to make whatever you want to sell look good. They make Shampoo outperform Mobil 1 in their test. :cheese:

 

Im i doing any harm with mobil 1 0w40 changed at 6000miles
I tend to buy a couple of tubs from you guys when on offer.
Its a bit of a jump in price to ester synthetics
Regarding those wear tests, ive seen plenty of videos showing magic additives that dramtically reduce load and wear on those tests im guessing most are just an ep additive, im sure the big oil manufacturers such as mobil and others could make an oil that would outstand in that test, so the fact they dont seems to suggest the oil doesnt need to.
Also from the past plenty of million mile test stripdowns and measure parts against oe spec with most stuff still in as new tollerance.
Where does mobil stack next to ester considering short drain interval so hopefully wouldnt shear down too much and hopefully soot and fuel deg low at 6000miles.
For example say millers nano drive at £70+ id be ditching 1yr 6000miles
Everything built to cost but is it twice as good?

 

Hi

Mobil 0w-40 is a good oil. It's a PAO base, so the next step down from the ester blends, but there isn't that much price difference, only a fiver or so between the Mobil and Pro S/Millers CFS and we quite often have them on offer for about £40.

Some of the additive videos are brilliant. There's one where an engine has concrete poured over the top of it and it still keeps running. It's not often that happens when you're driving about, but as the concrete doesn't go into the engine, I don't see the relevance anyway. I think the models in bikinis stood next to the engine were supposed to distract you from the nonsense.

Don't use additives, even what may seem the most harmless thing is messing with the chemistry of the oil. Here's a bit more information about additives.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Aftermarket-oil-additives.pdf

Cheers

Tim

 

Yep i love the one where the head and shoulders shampoo beats all the synthetic oils on that wear tester.

One Arm Bandit! - YouTube

May keep an eye out for a good ester on offer then next.

 

That's brilliant, I haven't seen that one before. Looking at some of the test samples they had there, I think they may have seen the oil test that was linked to earlier as most of the ones they had were in the test, except Head and Shoulders. I should probably spend some time having a look at oil videos, but 90% of the ones I've seen are complete nonsense and many of the others are flawed in some way. That is one of the few that is spot on.

One thing I should have mentioned about the Millers Nanodrive in my last post was the possible mpg benefit. As it works by increasing efficiency, as well as a potential power increase, there is a possible mpg increase. One guy with an Integra DC2 put on the DC2 forum last week that he used a pretty good 5w-40 before the Nanodrive and got 33mpg. When he changed to the Nanodrive, he got 35.5mpg, but hasn't been using it long so wants to get a better average. I told Millers and they have said a few people have reported the same. So yes, it may cost more than the other top oils, but over a service interval, it may pay for the difference itself.

Cheers

Tim

 

Millers Oils CFS 5w-40 vs Silkolene PRO S 5W-40 what would you recommend oilman?

 

I'd recommend whichever was on offer or failing that, toss a coin. Both are very good and well proven, nothing in it.

Cheers

Tim

 

Out of interest whats the valvolene vr1 5w50 as its listed in competition section but not ester( and quite a bit cheaper than the ester 5w50)
How do competition oils last with milage or are they designed for short periods only as expected in motorsport like a couple of days rallying etc.
And also ive always been supprised how vauxhall spec a 5w30 for virtually the same engine(1.9 16v) but alfa and fiat is 5w40
Will they suffer eventually with more wear from a thinner oil, which after time could be more like a 20 weight.
Especially the turbocharger?
And lastly do you ever stock mobil 5w50(rally)came to you on google but not stocked .

 

Hi

The VR1 is alright, but it's a step down from the ester based oils. There are very few proper competition oils that are for track only, but there are plenty that are also for road use and they are generally good for 10k of road use.

Vauxhall recommending 5w-30 and Alfa /Fiat saying 5w-40 is fairly normal for similar engines. If you look at the BMW and Merc range, they spec 0w-30, 5w-30, 0w-40 and 5w-40 for all of their cars, so one garage could say 0w-30 and the next one 5w-40 for the same car. Using a thinner oil could lead to more wear, depending on the engine and how tuned it is. I wouldn't say the 5w-30 is too thin for a standard Vauxhall, but if it's tuned, a 5w-40 is likely to be a better choice, or at least a better quality 5w-30 than the standard stuff.

Mobil discontinued the 5w-50 and 15w-50 for cars. Annoying as they were 2 of their most popular and useful oils. They 'replaced' those oils with a 10w-60 which is useless for the vast majority of cars on the market. Other than some Alfas, BMWs, Ferraris and Astons there is very little that needs a 10w-60, but a lot of modified/performance things that would happily use a 50.

Cheers

Tim

 

I always wonder why Opie Oils doesn't trade Selenia oils ...

 

It's not something we'd want to get involved in, there are better oils for the money. Also, we wouldn't stock an oil aimed at just a couple of manufacturers.

Cheers

Tim

 

More recent test from Amsoil:

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

 

Something to add of slight rellevance, a customer of mine has a Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi 110bhp, great engine with smooth pull and happily does 30k a year, i service it every 12k, it usually always has Comma R (recently rebranded under another name i cant currently remember) 5/30 f/s, its an oil ive used for years in both 5/30 and 5/40 and the car always has uncontaminated oil and is smooth

This time though due to them not having that in i stepped up to the Mobil 1 esp 5/30 f/s, £11 extra BUT the customer rang me the following morning to rave how he couldnt believe how much quiter and smoother sounding the engine was and he would happily pay double the extra it cost, id usually think hes imagining it and new mod syndrome but i change his oil 2-3 times a year as said above so i more than trust his feedback and not necessarily that link which slagged it... only thing i will say is theres no mpg difference? surprising i thought considering thats their selling point of it..

i used to ALWAYS use castrol GTx in my own cars even though it was comparitively expensive but it seems to have almost disapeared of late, infact only 1 of my regular 3 trade sellers actually have any stock, odd i thought?

Wayne

 

i used to ALWAYS use castrol GTx in my own cars even though it was comparitively expensive but it seems to have almost disapeared of late, infact only 1 of my regular 3 trade sellers actually have any stock, odd i thought?

Wayne

I think you will see it disappear all together soon.

Cheers

Guy.

 

Whilst searching the 5w50 stuff came accross 2x4L tubs on ebay £49 delivered couldnt resist.
Arrived today manufacture date is sept 2011.
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2729/19r6.jpg
Anyway i still have 1 5L tub of 0w 40 , im assuming i could do a 4l fill of the 5w50 and fill to level with the 0w40 and then top off through the year also 0w40.
If i do oil change start of next summer with the 5w50 it will hopefully dilute towards the winter more to the 0w40.
Im assuming they will mix to something inbetween the 2 weights.

 

Oilman, have you any recomendations for changing with the type of driving you do, or the age of your engine (and average temperatures (if I change the oil twice a year, is it at all worth changing the oil viscosity for summer/ winter?) or just stick with the same oil for the engine?

 

Hi

There are certain things that can help the car depending on the driving style. For example, someone who does a lot of short trips may benefit from a 0w rather than 5w. It's only really track use and/or a lot of modifications that means you want an oil that is thicker when hot. Most cars wouldn't benefit from a different oil for summer and winter, perhaps it may in somewhere like Scandinavia though. Age of the engine doesn't affect the oil at all (despite what some companies suggest on their oils). The only reason to use a thicker oil in relation to the age of the engine is because if there is a lot of engine wear that means the engine burns a lot of oil, a thicker grade can help to reduce that.

Cheers

Tim

 

Hardly anything really , i probably do less than 6000 a year but a fair share of that is driven hard if possible .
I might see dipstick go from max to 3/4 if that during the year.
Maybe do an intermediate filter only change.

 

OOh every day is a school day, Thankyou Tim, i stand corrected and take back what i said above sussexa, ive been wasting half my life on that damn old wives tale :-<

Wayne

 

There are so many old wives tales going around about oil (synthetics kill older engines, GL5 gear oils destroy synchros, you can't mix oils, garages/manufacturers always tell you the best option, anything with a turbo needs a 10w-60, a 10w-40 is better than a 5w-40 etc etc etc) that I spend half my day correcting them. The problem is people are allowed to say what they like on the internet or down the pub, with no comeback whatsoever, so they say things that aren't true and when they say them often enough, people start believing it. The difference with us is that if we advise people to use the wrong stuff, sell it to them and their car goes wrong, we can get sued. That's not happened to us as we deal closely with the oil companies, so we get reliable information.

This article helps with oil myths

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Oil-Myths.pdf

Cheers

Tim