Black smoke means over fuelling, too much fuel, not enough air, so this may be an indication that you have a split/leak in one of the turbo hoses. So get the car up on a hoist or jack stands and take the undertray off and check all the hoses from the turbo to the intercooler, from the intercooler to the throttle body/intake manifold.

It may also explain the lack of power below 2200 rpm as air is leaking through the split/leak till the turbo spools up enough to compensate the loss.

It's a place to start at least.

 

Thanks will try next thing in the morning.
But the smoke comes only after around 3k RPM,also the smell is like sulfur or rotten eggs,like the car is not mixing the fuel ratio okay i guess.

 

Update:
No air leaks and egr is blocked off.

 

Maybe a blocked dpf. Do you know if the car has been driven for short distances a lot or in stop start traffic? It may just need a good long run on the motorway at high rpm to clean it out.

 

there is no dpf,deleted

 

Update: Found a broken hose between MAF and Turbo.I did glue fix until replacing,but now seems faster and same amount of smoke.

 

Still no improvement,any new ideas?

 

Do these cars come with a catalytic convertor?

I had an XC90 eons ago that had a failed cat and gave off strong sulfur smells. Plus we ran it on cheap supermarket derv.

Put decent fuel in once the new (second hand) CAT was put in.

 

Yes there is a CAT but as i can see its okay,not cloggled or damaged.

 

I believe the 2.0JTDMs do not have a catalytic converter. I stand to be corrected on this.

 

No cat.....just a DPF.

 

Inside front of the exhaust there is a tube with cat and dpf,the dpf is removed,but the cat is inside.

 

As far as I'm aware there is just a DPF in the 2.0. I know some one who smashed the honeycomb stuff out of his DPF.......it all looked to be the same to me.....not two different materials. And its not a tube on the 2.0 but a big silencer shaped thing going straight down the front of the engine.....like this...
Could be wrong though!

 

DPF don't work without a cat. The cat and dpf are combined these days, likely the first 1/3rd is cqt, the last 2/3rd DPF.

It is essential that the fuel injected during the exhqust stroke is burned in the cat to raise the DPF temperature for regens. That's the reason for putting them together, less loss of heat.

 

Well it has o2 sensors on the front of the silencer shaped thing and that would mean its a cat?
And on the bottom are 2 pressure sensors + temp sensor for dpf?

 

I guess so.......guess I never really thought about it....

 

Still getting same engine code p0130 any info about the problem?
After fixing the hose problem.

 

Still getting same engine code p0130 any info about the problem?
After fixing the hose problem.

What diagnostic unit/software are you using and what is the description given with the code?

 

Also my top speed is around 180km/h so something is not healthy. Still nothing,next week il check injectors.

 

Should still read the codes fine.

I use a Bluetooth one permanently plugged into my car with Car Scanner on the head unit. Means I can clear codes on the move 🤣

 

Ok, that's fine in this instance, but everybody need to understand something. While generic codes readers will read the code number the Alfa Romeo code descriptions can vary greatly, Alfa Romeo does not always designate the same code number to the same fault. (Typically Alfa)

For example a certain fault code number in the ABS system on the standard OBDII code listing describes the fault as a faulty Valve Solenoid in the ABS block, however Alfa Romeo uses that code to describe a faulty Steering Sensor. This is just an example, there are so many more instances like this, DPF Temperature & pressures sensors, Body Computer errors and so forth, hence why I always recommend using Alfa Romeo specific diagnostic software.

Otherwise one can go chasing down some very dark rabbit holes by mistake.

 

MES does indeed save more than it costs 👍🏾

 

by mes you mean MultiEcuScan for fiat? If so i wating for the bluetooth odb for it so i can usr thst software.

 

I did. Personally I just use a usb cable adapter.

 

Update:
New maf,still smoke.
Oil change still smoke.
I think its injectors since when i unplug injector 4,there is allot less smoke.
Also if the car is not turned on for 12 hours,first startup is hard. Link :

 

Valve stem oil seals....? Does it smoke when you lift of down a hill and then accelerate again?

 

If issue happens from first day you own car:

• bad remap
• injection (timming, injectors, pump, sensors)
• internals (compression, seals...)

When you have MES read DTC again and try log first cold start and idle (rpm, total fuel mm3, rail pressure, water temp)

 

Will do tomorrow morning.And upload it do here, when i unplugged injector last on the right then the car smoked 70% less.

 

Update: injector 4 is out of range i assume its leaking.
MES video of today cold start.

 

They can be at idle....test at 2000rpm. I think that within 0.5 at 2000 rpm is within tolerances.

 

Start is really unbalanced, first suspect injector 4 now.
EGR is working ok, closed and engine sucks clean air, so discarded.
Others discarded too until injectors checked.

 

I sent my injectors off to colchester fuel injections. They did a bang up job on them. Wasn't that expensive either for testing and repair.

 

Check the preheaters, maybe you don´t have a mistake but one or some of them is heating poorly. I´ve changed recently one which game me error (nº 3) I mesured and gave me a value of 8k Ohms, but i´ve realised that it had to be wrong weeks or even motnths ago, now the engine starts smoothly, and I´m sure that another is on the way of be broken because it gave me a value of 8 ohms when it should be between 0 and 1.