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1.9 JTD & 1.9 JTDm engine story

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56K views 51 replies 17 participants last post by  dgmayhead  
G
#1 ·
Does anybody know the history of the JTD & JTDm engines.

Reason I ask is because I have a friend with Vauxhall Ashtray and he has the 1.9 CDTI 8V engine and he is telling me till blue in the face that his engine is far more reliable than mine.

I just want to know who actually manufacture his engine (fiat GM etc.) and where did my engine surface from. Which one is which etc. etc.

I have the JTDm 16v (150)

Cheers all.

P.S. I have read Alfa Workshop and Wikipedia to no avail :cry:
 
G
#5 ·
Jtd is an Alfa engine 8v or 10v good reliability.

The jtdm however is a GM block which is shipped to fiat, fiat build the engines using the GM block (so it's fiat threw and threw apart from a lump of pig iron).

Fiat developed multijet (Bosch manufacture multijet).

Fiat then put the engines in their cars and send completed engines back to GM (well the 16v don't think vaux used the 20v).

Not sure about gearbox/driveshafts in 156 (159 they are more likely the same).

Your mate is talking ****e. Same water pump, same egr, same egr restrictor gaskets to sort, same dpf.... same bloody engine all made by fiat.

The only difference may be ECU map (not sure how torque BHP compare) and when swirl flaps introduced and later updated to better bearing in flaps but same for engine vaux get from fiat.

The 8v/10v is all fiat/alfa and more reliable than later ones.

Hope that helps
 
#6 ·
introduced in 2006 for the 147/GT etc and has the CF4 engine
Another interesting point on this - some 55 plate GTs are JTDms. Some (possibly all?) of the 55 plates have the CF4 engine but the CF3 manifold - so the later type engine with none of the swirl flap issues - Bloomin lovely set up!!! I have had the 55 plate and now have the 06 plate which, surprise surprise, recently had leaky flaps - Gotta hate leaky flaps.
 
G
#7 ·
Cheers all,

His has been absolutely thrashed in the few years he has owned it and it sounds like a dog, turbo fail twice, alternator 4X, endless shocks and springs etc etc, so every time I see him, he will ask if mine has gone bang yet, what he forgets is I plan to service mine every 6K to 8K where as he will drag the oil usage up to around 18K.

Anyway, above "spider95" you mentioned mine is not the JTDm but just the JTD? on the back of the car it states JTD - MJET, produces 150 BHP. I have seen the CF3 etc mentioned a couple of times, what does the CF3 mean??

Mr Mac, even if the block is from GM but fitted with fiat components / Bosch, is the block still strong and dependable?? I pressume it is just the block but the all the pistons, valves, rockers, cams etc etc etc are all fitted by fiat??

Cheers all
 
G
#9 ·
Ahhhh right so in a nut shell dare I say I have a good diesel engine?

I have always wondered about the belt teeth, looking on alfaworkshop it offers the both naturaly, I have thought "how do you tell".

The plan is to service the car every 6k to 8k, as my other thread I shall be dropping Petronas 5W-40 fully syn into her tomorrow. No expense shall be spared in the wake of cheaper bills.

Timing belt was done at 68K, the counter now reads 74918, I bought it at 69920, so I have racked the mileage up.

Just checked the engine code and it reads - 937A5000 150BHP............... Should I be happy?? :lol:

Cheers Spider95
 
#16 ·
If you're talking about the revised rectangular gasket with the four holes (one in each corner) that will certainly help the inlet manifold side of your engine. But it isn't going to help the EGR, which will still get the full flow of exhaust gases (the flow is up to the EGR, through the EGR, and then into the inlet manifold).

The answer to this is to fit the revised diamond shaped restrictor plate which fits on the other side of the EGR. This has three small holes in a central position of the plate. You need to fit the correct gasket either side of the plate to ensure a good fit.

Official restrictor plate (Alfa Romeo part number 71751469):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Alfa-EGR-Modified-Restrictor-Flow-Plate-Gasket-New-Genuine-71751469-/140916951749?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20cf4e0ac5

However this is pricey, a much better price is a supplier from Poland, who also provides the correct genuine gaskets:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-valve-blanking-block-plate-FIAT-ALFA-LANCIA-1-9-JTDM-VAUXHALL-OPEL-1-9-CDTI-/170892800806?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ca013326

Avoid the restrictor plate with the one central hole of 9mm - this seems to cause problems, as in some cases not enough exhaust gases are allowed through to trick the ECU.

Of course the best answer is to have a remap with EGR delete. Gus at Alfatune is the master of this. Either way this best approach isn't cheap, the interim alternative is to use the restrictor plates either side of the EGR, this will reduce some of the clogging up on these engines.
Thanks for this. For less than ÂŁ4 has to be worth a try as I'm bored with cleaning the EGR every few months.
 
#23 ·
Both restrictor plates are now official issue from the dealers, and are fitted if the EGR valve is replaced.

The restrictor plates allow the EGR to function correctly, but at the same time reducing the volume of soot clogging up both the EGR and the inlet manifold.

If you don't think these officlal restrictor plates allow the EGR to function 'correctly' then I suggest you take the matter up with Fiat Group HQ in Italy.
Never said it wouldnt function "Correctly". Mearly wrote you could clean it and it should fuction as it should do.

Never said the plates hadn't been official or anything of the sort. I don't even run a diesel car but one of the first things I did when I had a JTD engine was to clean the EGR. Pretty standard practice on getting a diesel powered car.

If people would actually clean and service the part I am sure there would be no need for the restrictor plate. But als they don't and Fiat / Alfa and GM probably have several 1000 times had to replace the part. So getting a restrictor plate involved helps lower the maintenance need by essentially blocking the throughput of exhaust gas through the engine.

The whole EGR valve is a bit of wasted effort though. Its not needed. It doesn't really help the mpg that much to aid its annoyance. But it helped figures on emissions when relleasing the cars.

Although I have petrol I peridically clean the throttle body as they to also have a recirculation system.
:thumbs:
 
G
#24 ·
Further to the above.

If I already have the rectangle plate in place and I also install the additional oval plate, would that be normal practice or shall I remove the rectangle plate and only keep the oval plate in??

Cheers all.
 
#25 ·
just to expand on that question, if someone would also answer....

I have the diamond shape plate (no restrictor holes), so do I need another plate (rectangular??) to completely block any recirculated gasses going into the manifold? my main aim is to have an un-clogged manifold!
 
G
#26 ·
Unless you have deleted egr in ECU blocking egr will continuously chuck up engine fault code.

If you haven't deleted egr you need restrictor gaskets.

If fitting you want both 3 hole diamond one (with a std gadget either side) and a rectangle 4 hole one.

Tbh I don't think they reduce flow of egr all that much but the increase speed of gas that does pass through and cause more swirl and turbulence. This faster better mixed gas is less likely to drop off deposits in egr or in channels that direct egr into intake.

Not sure if it improves intake manifold gunging up but better circulation should mix with fresh air better and make it better all round.

To stop completely you need an ECU map with egr deleted then use the solid plates to block it at both ends :)
 
#27 ·
To stop completely you need an ECU map with egr deleted then use the solid plates to block it at both ends :)
thanks for replying ...but my question has not quite been answered. Or if it has you've disguised it!

- I don't care about engine lights
- I'm not interested in ecu deletes
- I don't care if the egr valve is completely choked as it is non-functional anyway
- I don't want a restrictor plate with holes

My main aim, is to stop any recycled gas into the manifold. I have one solid diamond plate at one end ....do I need a rectangular one, somewhere else?

thanks
 
G
#29 ·
You need an egr delete then.... if engine light fail mot you'll worry and if it drops into limp mode when your pulling out at junction you'll also care...

My old egr was jammed in closed position and I can tell you it will happen.

Best option to rid egr is alfatune map and then if you wanted you can block at rectangle and where egr pipe attaches to exhaust :)
 
G
#31 · (Edited)
No need to be so blunt or rude thanks kindly.... what exactly di I say that was wrong. If engine light fails (as in if they bring rule in and from all I can see it is coming in as part of test).... and a blocked off egr can cause limp mode... I know mine was totally jammed and sealed shut so it can be seriously dangerous just blocking and hoping for best....

How's about not being so rude and dismissive of someone offering at least reasonable advice

You asked the question??? If your already clever enough to know the answer then don't ask, and don't snap at someone who replies nicely
 
#32 ·
My main aim, is to stop any recycled gas into the manifold. I have one solid diamond plate at one end ....do I need a rectangular one, somewhere else?

NO, if the plate is before the EGR or after it but needs to be before the inlet manifold ofc :)

Before the EGR is the best place.
 
#33 ·
Only one plate, preferably on the egr valve end is all that is needed, either the oval one where the pipe goes into the valve, or the square one where the valve fits to the manifold.

I have an oval plate on the intake to the valve and it works fine, I also have a few spare I was going to put on ebay if you want to buy one
 
G
#36 ·
Going back to the OP I think the 1.9 JTD engine was originally an 8valve engine that in its time was pretty punchy with power outputs ranging from 110bhp to 115 bhp, having owned the 115bhp version with 5 gears I loved that car but it got killed by an un-insured chav. Then the JTDM engines came out, afaik they were 16 valve 150bhp engines with 6 gears, Ducati versions had 170bhp and Q2 differentials. The M part of jtdm meant that the engine ecu was now able to add multipple injections of fuel to optimise the fuel economy and power output they had extra squirts of fuel to acheive this. I now have a 2.0 litre JTDM2 giulietta and it does 170 bhp as standard. You just know there will be a Ducati version soon with the same block and another 30-50 bhp!
 
G
#37 ·
Gone for 5 and there are hand bags :lol:

Anyway, thank you all for the top information provided.

Rhett71, cheers for the in depth low down, I didnt realise the Ducati version had 170bhp I thought they were all at 150bhp with just a Q2 diff.. :D

Top stuff guys :D
 
#38 ·
well, only the last 156 engines are 150bhp, there's a 140 version comes before it (mjet 16v). I THINK the last 150bhp in the 156 is JTDm but might well still be mjet thinking about it.

Ducati 147, Cloverleaf and I think Blackline GTs had the 170bhp tune up. Possibly others?

just a bit more for the "mix" :)