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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to replace the manifolds on my 3.2 gtv to get rid of the heat problem and make exhaust system less restrictive. I would like the wizards as they are highly respected. My questions are what is involved in doing the job, what are the issues and would it be a better option to leave it to the professionals? Is remap needed?
 

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Remap is not essential, the ME7.3.1 is self-adapting and 9 times out of 10, it will make the best of the manifolds and adapt correctly to them. A remap is the cherry on the cake if you want it and don't mind the extra expense. The best result we have seen without a remap is 269hp on a standard engine in good health, when that car was remapped it raised to 274hp and around an extra 10NM through the mid-range.

As for fitting the manifolds, some people will drop the engine and combine it with other work. If you have no other work to do to justify dropping the engine, then instead you can drop the subframe and fit the manifolds from below. Quickest I have managed this is 8 hours on a lift and I've fitted probably 6-7 pairs. But more often than not you always end up doing other work anyway, anti roll bar bushes, bottom arms, CV boots, gearbox oil seals. Almost worth taking the alternator out and refurbing it while you're in there (avoiding a potential 6 hour job later down the line if it has never been done). You're half way there to doing a clutch too as with the rear manifold removed and subframe removed, getting at the starter bolts and bellhousing bolts is a doddle and getting the gearbox out and back in again is much easier too than with the subframe on.

If you are skilled & well equipped you could do it yourself on a driveway in a weekend no doubt.
 

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Remap is not essential, the ME7.3.1 is self-adapting and 9 times out of 10, it will make the best of the manifolds and adapt correctly to them. A remap is the cherry on the cake if you want it and don't mind the extra expense. The best result we have seen without a remap is 269hp on a standard engine in good health, when that car was remapped it raised to 274hp and around an extra 10NM through the mid-range.

As for fitting the manifolds, some people will drop the engine and combine it with other work. If you have no other work to do to justify dropping the engine, then instead you can drop the subframe and fit the manifolds from below. Quickest I have managed this is 8 hours on a lift and I've fitted probably 6-7 pairs. But more often than not you always end up doing other work anyway, anti roll bar bushes, bottom arms, CV boots, gearbox oil seals. Almost worth taking the alternator out and refurbing it while you're in there (avoiding a potential 6 hour job later down the line if it has never been done). You're half way there to doing a clutch too as with the rear manifold removed and subframe removed, getting at the starter bolts and bellhousing bolts is a doddle and getting the gearbox out and back in again is much easier too than with the subframe on.

If you are skilled & well equipped you could do it yourself on a driveway in a weekend no doubt.
Is there a remap for a 2.0TS possible ? I'm looking for better fuel economy Is drinking more than my Saab 93 2.0 ...
Anywhere in Scotland ?

TS is for Tony Stark
 

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Remap is not essential, the ME7.3.1 is self-adapting and 9 times out of 10, it will make the best of the manifolds and adapt correctly to them. A remap is the cherry on the cake if you want it and don't mind the extra expense. The best result we have seen without a remap is 269hp on a standard engine in good health, when that car was remapped it raised to 274hp and around an extra 10NM through the mid-range.

As for fitting the manifolds, some people will drop the engine and combine it with other work. If you have no other work to do to justify dropping the engine, then instead you can drop the subframe and fit the manifolds from below. Quickest I have managed this is 8 hours on a lift and I've fitted probably 6-7 pairs. But more often than not you always end up doing other work anyway, anti roll bar bushes, bottom arms, CV boots, gearbox oil seals. Almost worth taking the alternator out and refurbing it while you're in there (avoiding a potential 6 hour job later down the line if it has never been done). You're half way there to doing a clutch too as with the rear manifold removed and subframe removed, getting at the starter bolts and bellhousing bolts is a doddle and getting the gearbox out and back in again is much easier too than with the subframe on.

If you are skilled & well equipped you could do it yourself on a driveway in a weekend no doubt.
Very interesting, so it is possible without removing engine?
 

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Not very pleasant, but possible. With the subframe off the sump swings forward and the exhaust side of the rear head points much more towards the ground than the bulkhead so it allows enough room to get the rear bank manifold off. The awkward bit is removing the lambda sensor & heatshield first so the manifold nuts can be got at.
 

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269hp? With other mods I assume?
Catback system, decent downpipes, not sure if there were any changes to air intake system. It was quite a long time ago now. But that sort of result isn't uncommon I've seen quite a lot in the 260s. If the engine makes 200psi compression across the board its in a good position to be making 260-270hp with decent intake & exhaust.
 

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You could do it in a weekend if you were determined, but dropping the engine makes a load of other jobs much easier - e.g.:

- clutch - about 45 minutes
- Q2 - 45 minutes
- cambelt - and you don’t care that a bolt might shear...
- alternator - new regulator pack, 15 minutes
- front struts - an hour and you can get the pinch bolt in a press.

Generally ends up being a massive overhaul!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great thanks for reply. Got cda intake and f430 tb and act carbon fibre plenum. These upgrades have really made a difference but eml on due to air fuel mix outside of parameter which I guess means the ecu cant adjust. It will reset for a while but eventually comes back on. Performance is much improved though so I kind of live with it. With all this work done for air intake then it would make sense to put the wizards on. Car done 65k miles so engine in good health. All alfaholics exhaust except the middle cats are oem. Would the wizards work with this setup?
 

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Great thanks for reply. Got cda intake and f430 tb and act carbon fibre plenum. These upgrades have really made a difference but eml on due to air fuel mix outside of parameter which I guess means the ecu cant adjust. It will reset for a while but eventually comes back on. Performance is much improved though so I kind of live with it. With all this work done for air intake then it would make sense to put the wizards on. Car done 65k miles so engine in good health. All alfaholics exhaust except the middle cats are oem. Would the wizards work with this setup?
Yes they'd work great. The Alfaholics exhaust from what I can tell is well built and an improvement on flow compared to standard. The standard mid cats are fine for a stock 3.2, only if you go big-bore or cams or supercharger are they even worth considering as an upgrade.
 

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6 x exhaust manifold to cylinder head gaskets, 2 x exhaust manifold to downpipe gaskets, 2 x downpipe to centre cat gaskets. Thats it really. You could replace all the studs in the heads & nuts holding the manifolds on, 12 x studs, 12 x nuts, but this isn't essential.
 

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The manifolds have brackets so the original heatshields can be retained - you could wrap the manifolds also, but definitely use the original heatshields whether you wrap them or not.
 
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