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Discussion Starter #1
I have started to change my rh front lower wishbone but where the joint goes through the hub it is seized will not budge, i have sprayed a can of penetrant and will try tomorrow, anyone had any similar problems and maybe a get out of jail plan.

Cheers
Andy C
 

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It's a taper balljoint so its meant to be tight, but it will come out.

Esiest method is to remove the nut and hit the surrounding metal on the hub where the thread passes through with a decent hammer. The impact should cause the joint to pop free without damaging anything.

But seeing as youre replacing the wishbone you dont need to worry so much about damaging it. You could just take the nut off or leave it on a few threads and hit it from underneath til it frees off or buy a balljoint splitter. There are 2 types, which is better I dont know... Method 1 always works for me.
 

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do you mean the long bolt the goes through the fork on the strut and then the wishbone? all that goes through the hub is the balljoint
if its the long bolt have you got the nut off?
will the bolt turn?

you will be as well to remove the drive shaft and suspension strut too to give you the room to get the new wishbone in....they are awkeward due to the angle they need to be to get the bolts back in, and not strip the rear bush housing as its alloy

Gary
 

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You mean you can't split the balljoint?

If so what sort of splitter are you using? I did mine today with a tuning fork splitter, wasn't worried about damaging the rubber boots as that's what I was changing.....after damaging the boots the last time I used a tuning for splitter to separate the balljoints.

I assume you've got the car on axle stands, remove the long bolt through the wishbone and suspension strut fork if you haven't already done so, use a jack on the wishbone to lift it and the hub/upright so that gravity is on your side.

Try splitting again with whatever tool you have. I'm going to invest those scissor jobbies.

All the best

Pub
 

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Esiest method is to remove the nut and hit the surrounding metal on the hub where the thread passes through with a decent hammer. The impact should cause the joint to pop free without damaging anything.

.
yup thats the best way for sure
 
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Scissor ones are good as are the forks but it all depends on access to the joint you also need to check the gap size is suitable on both types is it narroew enough or wide enough to fit your type of ball joint they do vary :thumbs:
A good old tip that works with everything from screws to bolts and studs is try and tighten then back them off sometimes just helps break the rust or corrosion dont over do it or it could sheer but always worth ago.
 
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I'm an expert now (after a day in scrappy trying to extract a top wishbone bracket.

Agree, remove bolt and belt metal surround hard with hammer... with enough accuracy and aggression I am getting ball joint tapers to drop open in about 5-10 seconds now ;)

John
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tried everything even hit it so hard the drive shaft came out from the engine side, put it all back together and the noise has gone, (typical). i lost a cup full of oil from the drive shaft, is this fed from the engine oil as the level is still fine.
Thanks
Andy c
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I thought it was but was hoping by some miracle a clever italian decided to use common sense like the aero engines i work on. will not risk using it for work tomorrow will get it topped up, thanks
 
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