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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I had Window Problems with my Brera 3.2, the window wouldn't go up all the way and it also didn't pull the window all the way up. So I removed the switch which prompted the car to all of the sudden make the automatic window up/drop work again.

When disassembling the switch I didn't find anything out of the ordinary, the solder joints seemed fine, the contact pads are clean, etc.. But I found this spot where it seems like a resistor is missing (two pads with solder but nothing on it), does anyone have a picture of their brera/spider switch or has one lying around to compare? A picture would be much appreciated.


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It doesn't necessarily mean anything, as PCBs often have unpopulated locations due to changes during lifetime, extra options etc.etc.
The fact that there is solder also means nothing,
 

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A magnified view shows the solder on the pads to be domed. If a component had fallen off, there would be rectangular imprints left in the solder so I don't think it's a problem.
I have a bit of an issue at the moment where the passenger window doesn't drop quite far enough, making it difficult for the wife to open the door. I've just given it all a good cleaning and put some wax polish on the rubber seals as they felt a bit tacky and may have been causing too much resistance. Will have to wait and see what she says.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It doesn't necessarily mean anything, as PCBs often have unpopulated locations due to changes during lifetime, extra options etc.etc.
The fact that there is solder also means nothing,
That makes sense, I guess I will have to continue looking for the problem.

Does anyone know of common Problems with these switches? Also does anyone know if the Mito switches work with the brera? They look identical but cost only about 30 Pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you sure it's the switch and not the window regulator? The regulators are prone to fail.

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I am not completely sure but since the removal of the switch fixed part of the problem I assume it to be the Switch.
Is there any Pattern of behaviour when dealing with a broken regulator? I wouldn't say theres anything abnormal to the windows movement except of casue that it doesn't close 100% and that it doesn't auto drop/rise when the switch is installed.
 

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When my regulator broke, I had to tape the window up. It felt like the window had been "disconnected" so to speak. Try lifting the window up manually. I think you should be able to feel it.
 

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Im having this problem at the moment, so far ive fitted a brand new window regulator, still couldnt get the window to lift, then a second hand door ecu, the window still wont lift, so im guess the problem now is the switch

very occaionally with the door slightly open i can lift the window switch and the window goes strianght up like nothings wrong

when i operate the switch i can hear a corresponding noise in the door ecu, drivng me mad and costing a lot of money

does the switches come apart easily ?
 

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Do you have a blinking odometer ?
If so, you would require a proxi alignment, due to replacing the window ECU (=CAN node). Without proxy alignment, there's a good chance the ecu will not function correctly.
 

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Being able to to get it to work with the door slightly open is the big clue to the problem to me...and it's quite a common one. I suspect you have broken wires inside the rubber boot that guides the wire from the car body to the door...at certain angles of door opening the broken wires will touch and let it work. The repeated bending of the wires as you open and close the door eventually snaps them....look hard...it can be difficult to spot the breaks if the wires insulation is intact. Had this issue myself before....and I suspect I might have it again due to intermittent operation of the electric mirrors.
 

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Thanks, i realise the flashing odometer means i have to get the ecu sync'd i would still expect the window to go up and down when commanded too however.

The door ecu, switch and window regulator are all wired togther with a loom that doesent move in the door, if the fault is in the loom from the car body into the door then i will never find it
 

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Thanks, i realise the flashing odometer means i have to get the ecu sync'd i would still expect the window to go up and down when commanded too however.
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Not necessarily , the flashing odometer probably indicates the window ECU is not being correctly addressed, hence it cannot work properly ......
 

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the door ecu has been sync'd to the car now and still the window will not work, however i bought a 159 4 window switch assemble from a scrapyard and connected it, window worked perfectly ! so the switch does seam to be the problem, however these switches can no long be bought new

ive ordered one from a breakers yard, sad news that parts for these cars are being discontinued
 
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