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Discussion Starter #1
Morning folks,

I have a bit of a conundrum to solve.

Using my VIN on ePER it tells me to use 60816818 for the clutch kit. This come up on the Bay of E as a 240mm kit (Valeo). LUK is 230mm and cheapy is 235mm.

Opening up the part number on ePER tells me it was replaced in 2003 by 71749477. Which is shown as 235 to 240mm kilts. So basically in the same range as the replaced kit. NOW in the regular parts listing (no specific part opened) this same number is shown for the M5 version and 'deleted' as not the right one.

So, which one is the one to go for? 60816818 is about £200 and 71749477 is about £120. Much more reasonable.... :wink_org:

In addition I don't understand why the same kit is either 235mm and at the same time 240mm while being the EXACT same part number... :ermm::surprised::banghead:

Ta, Axel
 

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The Alfa part numbers also relate to the Valeo part number 828063 which is a 235mm diameter clutch plate with 20 splines. The valeo part covers quite a range of diesel Alfas and from the other threads on this forum and from personal experience i would go for an original Valeo part for the clutch kit.

It would also be a good idea to check your DMF if your doing your clutch as these can be another source of problems...

Not completely sure why the different sizes/part numbers may just be down to the original specifications stated by alfa when sourcing clutches...

Good luck :)
 

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+1 Valeo.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well that's what I was intending to do anyways. I was just baffled by the £££ and spec differences in the auctions. And ePER unfort does not give any specs for the parts...

For the DMF I don't know yet as I will have some money but a loooong list what urgently needs to be done...

axel
 

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One is for the 170 bhp gt probably which is slightly 'stronger'. The one to go for. I know mine is the updated one.

Valeo I am sure supply Luk - so they are the same quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now, what can (usually) go wrong with the DMF? Just asking as I have never replaced one/had to replace one... Lucky me :classic:

Axel
 

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Now, what can (usually) go wrong with the DMF? Just asking as I have never replaced one/had to replace one... Lucky me :classic:

Axel
I seem to recall someone reputable on here saying that they don't often need replacing (disclaimers apply - not putting words in their mouth, happy to be corrected if I'm wrong, thought it was someone from Autolusso).
From a garage point of view, I can imagine you'd rather tell a customer to replace the DMF too, because if that goes later the customer faces another even bigger bill on top of a big bill to replace just the clutch.
 

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My dmf is due to be changed. Got a new one here. For me, in my TS, started off as what feels like backlash in the transmission, as the secondary mass has free play it, followed by (thousands of miles later mind) by a ticking noise coming from the bell housing area when hot, which goes with the clutch depressed as you are effectively pulling the flywheel apart. That's where I am now. I'm assuming that's going to be followed with more noise, more vibration, some clutch judder, a pulsing our wobbly feeling through the clutch pressure, and then the RAC/AA.
 

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10v engines don't need DMFs changing every time you change a clutch. I probably see more with OK flywheels than knackered flywheels. But you won't know until you get the gearbox off and have a look.

I've got clutches & flywheels in stock for good prices, if you're ever driving past this way again :)
 
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