[goldmax]

Well I've had the car about 3 weeks and done 650 miles, when do you suggest having the oil changed and/or filter? :read:

 

[Nickhoughton567]

Didn't the dealer ask you to drop it in for post run in service and check? Normally about 1000 miles

 

[goldmax]

Didn't the dealer ask you to drop it in for post run in service and check? Normally about 1000 miles

No, nothing like that, although they are 60 miles away so not easy to just pop in. I'll email and ask, I wanted to take it to a local garage and buy the oil myself to give to the mechanic so I know its the correct stuff.

 

[andypj]

No, nothing like that, although they are 60 miles away so not easy to just pop in. I'll email and ask, I wanted to take it to a local garage and buy the oil myself to give to the mechanic so I know its the correct stuff.

The first service is due after 12 months but only a visual check. If your vehicle is incurring more difficult conditions you can have the oil changed at that time. I did & it cost about £150. As far as a check after 1000 miles is concerned, I'm pretty confident there isn't one. You might get the dealer doing a courtesy call to see if everything's ok but nothing more. Oh, cost of the first service 'visual check' was about £90 - £100 without the oil change. Mines done just over 16000 miles now & it just keeps on getting better!

 

[cue2]

Our Belgian Giulietta man on here who is a main dealer mechanic wrote recently about oils and suggested the first oil from new is different from replacement / servicing grade. I may be wrong, but I got the impression he was suggesting it's good to leave it in for a while, like until the first service. It may perform better some function which requires it reaching a certain age. New oil is not so protective or some such theory. I'm sure he will explain if I've got the wrong message from what he wrote.

 

[goldmax]

Our Belgian Giulietta man on here who is a main dealer mechanic wrote recently about oils and suggested the first oil from new is different from replacement / servicing grade. I may be wrong, but I got the impression he was suggesting it's good to leave it in for a while, like until the first service. It may perform better some function which requires it reaching a certain age. New oil is not so protective or some such theory. I'm sure he will explain if I've got the wrong message from what he wrote.

Thanks cue, therein lies the dilemma as I have read many pieces of advice. Do you leave the good first oil in with its special ingredients or get rid of it with the pieces of engine shavings circulating around the system doing god knows what damage....?

 

[cue2]

The service schedule is obviously created to avoid off-putting expenditure on the whole-life cost for fleet managers but perhaps it's better to avoid dislodging the swarf and losing the first oil?

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

Thanks cue, therein lies the dilemma as I have read many pieces of advice. Do you leave the good first oil in with its special ingredients or get rid of it with the pieces of engine shavings circulating around the system doing god knows what damage....?

It's ingredients that are missing... friction modifiers (to lower fuel consumption) hamper the running in process.

I changed my own oil after 5 months and 10k miles. But I did purpously run-in the engine.

"shavings" about 20 µm in size or up get filtered out. As the oil filter ages it starts to cake up and filters smaller particles, but this takesa lot of miles to happen. I didn't change the filter at 10k for that reason, as it's just starting to filter whereas before it's more a screen.

Particles as small as 1µm potentially harm the engine though...

 

[Isotope]

What oil make do you prefer? I keep putting Selenia oils into my baby but I have noticed the indies seem to prefer Halvolene?

 

[giblets46]

What oil make do you prefer? I keep putting Selenia oils into my baby but I have noticed the indies seem to prefer Halvolene?

I wouldn't worry too much about the brand of oil, dealers will use Selenia as they get told to, Havolene is just another half decent brand. Anything that meets the guidelines should be fine.

If you have the choice, I'd use a cheaper oil (that meets all the specs) and use the price difference to change the oil more regularly.

 

[epsonix]

I wouldn't worry too much about the brand of oil, dealers will use Selenia as they get told to, Havolene is just another half decent brand. Anything that meets the guidelines should be fine.

If you have the choice, I'd use a cheaper oil (that meets all the specs) and use the price difference to change the oil more regularly.

i wouldn't either except if we are considering selenia star pe 5w40, which is poor oil(i won't be getting into details why). other selenias are ok or good or better. agree, no point to get crazy about oil brand(e.g. some people would use redline or ams or search for only pao/ester based oils(true syntetic, not to ones often called synthetic, but really hydro-cracked oils without decent additives etc)), i would go for decent enough hc at least, eg i use motul xclean 8100 5w40 c3 for my wife's giulietta 1.4tb 120bhp, easy available, not that expensive, good enough. millers are considered good as well, in uk should be also easily available. most important are oil change intervals, i use rule 10kkm of city drive or 15kkm of motorways, or every year, whatever comes first. first oil change in giulietta i did after a year @ 5.5kkm mileage (this was at dealer and so they put selenia star pe), second (just after warranty expired) i did engine flush, put motul and added archoil 9100 additive (do not add such too early, eg to new engine, some minimal breakin process still needs to happen)

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

What oil make do you prefer? I keep putting Selenia oils into my baby but I have noticed the indies seem to prefer Halvolene?

I had the factory fill in mine, then castrol edge turbo diesel 5w-40, then the dealer fill (total quartz ineo mc3) and currently using a mix of all leftover I had (castrol magnatec professional oe 5w40, castrol edge turbo diesel, Shell helix ultra turbo diesel 5w-30).

I like the mix best, engine runs the smoothest and quietest. I disliked the Castrol Edge most, because I got noticeably more dpf regens when I used that oil and the engine wasn't assmooth. I researched and found out what might be the reason for this. I'm looking into oils of a certain chemistry now, and slightly thinner aswell. The Total was a fairly good match.

I'll be changing my oil later this month with the new oil, will see how it goes.

Selenia isn't one of my favourite oils, sorry. esp not WR PE. Loaded with viscosity modifiers which keeps the kinematic viscosity high but the high temp high shear viscosity low. So the fuel economy benefit realised is not as big as it could be. Viscosity modifiers are also more likely to cause sludge buildup. Whiney turbos etc...

Look for the thinnest (100°C) oil you can find that still meets MB229.52. Any oil that meets that spec also meets the fiat spec, even if not mentioned on the bottle. Both start with basic ACEA specs, but fiat wants the volatility reduced to 10% (acea allows 13%). Mercedes wants 10% max aswell but adds other engine tests that need to be met (wear and cleanliness).

For a petrol I'd suggest looking into MB229.51 oils.

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

i wouldn't either except if we are considering selenia star pe 5w40, which is poor oil(i won't be getting into details why). other selenias are ok or good or better. agree, no point to get crazy about oil brand(e.g. some people would use redline or ams or search for only pao/ester based oils(true syntetic, not to ones often called synthetic, but really hydro-cracked oils without decent additives etc)), i would go for decent enough hc at least, eg i use motul xclean 8100 5w40 c3 for my wife's giulietta 1.4tb 120bhp, easy available, not that expensive, good enough. millers are considered good as well, in uk should be also easily available. most important are oil change intervals, i use rule 10kkm of city drive or 15kkm of motorways, or every year, whatever comes first. first oil change in giulietta i did after a year @ 5.5kkm mileage (this was at dealer and so they put selenia star pe), second (just after warranty expired) i did engine flush, put motul and added archoil 9100 additive (do not add such too early, eg to new engine, some minimal breakin process still needs to happen)

well, since you mention it...

The premise of Acea C oils is they trade oxidation prevention in the additives (for lower ash content) with more oxidatively stable oils. But the trade off in practice is in my experience unbalanced. Reduce the base number of the oil by 40% and replace 25% of the hydrocracked base oil with PAO (in the best case scenario) or not at all. Very few of the C2/C3 oils are true synthetic (PAO/POE).

The result is that the oils really don't last unless conditions are perfect. With a proper A3/B4 oil 35000 km would be easily achievable, and with a true synthetic I think you don't even need A3/B4.

Ironically, I have never seen a DPF fail due to using a full saps oil and research papers seem to indicate aswell that poisoning of the cat or dpf is not related to the saps level, but rather the exact chemistry used. ie you could have a low saps oil that's worse for the emissions system than another full saps oil.

I'm switching to a PAO/POE oil, with slightly higher additive levels. Going for 20k km intervals. Found one I really like for not much money.

 

[epsonix]

which one you chosen? from what i remember from time i did oil research motorex, redline and amsoil have good ones with acea c3 and a lot of pao or ester