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Discussion Starter #1
I get severe wheel hop when losing traction in 2nd gear, from when in boost right through to redline especially on rugged tar roads, how do I stop this? I've got Achilles 2233 235/35/19's on and their not even 3000km old.

420Nm going through there...any advice on how to minimize this? Engine mounts? Better shocks and lower springs? Suspension geometry I.e. toe in?
 

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Its the achilles i think, had a lot of wheel hop running achilles on my old ST also, otherwise the only other solution i can think of is better shocks
 

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OEM shocks have very little (if at all) compression damping, mainly a fair amount of rebound damping - this will allow the wheel to jump up, but return slow - giving cause to wheel jump.

Solution is to get less grippy tires, less HP or I say get coillies which will have proper compression damping.

This is why you should start modding from brakes, to shocks then only add power... I guess it is boring that way around, but it more sensible
 

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OEM shocks have very little (if at all) compression damping, mainly a fair amount of rebound damping - this will allow the wheel to jump up, but return slow - giving cause to wheel jump.

Solution is to get less grippy tires, less HP or I say get coillies which will have proper compression damping.

This is why you should start modding from brakes, to shocks then only add power... I guess it is boring that way around, but it more sensible
Gertie nou sounds like the "big daddy" of the forum! :cheese:
 

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TN soek nou kak...hehe.

Increasing the rear ride height slightly or softening the front suspension will help with wheel hop, but that will introduce other handling issues. Best bet would be to pull off slower...and save your clutch and gearbox too! :thumbs:
 

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Gertie nou sounds like the "big daddy" of the forum! :cheese:
Oops :rolleyes: I'll give others a chance to pipe up first... Don't want to sound "Beter weterig"

I thought I know a bit about shocks, brakes and handling - tell me if I talk kuk - I shut up when it comes to engine mods and detailing...
 

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OEM shocks have very little (if at all) compression damping, mainly a fair amount of rebound damping - this will allow the wheel to jump up, but return slow - giving cause to wheel jump.

Solution is to get less grippy tires, less HP or I say get coillies which will have proper compression damping.

This is why you should start modding from brakes, to shocks then only add power... I guess it is boring that way around, but it more sensible
Give that man a bells
 

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I get severe wheel hop when losing traction in 2nd gear, from when in boost right through to redline...
I get severe wheel smoke when losing traction in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, from 2000rpm right through to redline in my GTV... Could it be the tyres?:confused:

uhmmm... Yes... What's the problem? :D
 

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My Mito suffers this fate and i know its breaking the spider gear on the inner CV. it is what it is and its the price you pay for modding
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Its bloody irritating. Will start saving for coilies in Nov.

50mm springs coming in 2 weeks lets see
 

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Its bloody irritating. Will start saving for coilies in Nov.

50mm springs coming in 2 weeks lets see
Personally I dont THINK the 50mm spring will help, the current shock can not control the standard spring and tyre's movement. Shorter spring will be stiffer and MAY make this worse.

Personally I am of the opinion that compression damping should not be more than a 3rd of the rebound damping on driving wheels, so it is easy to adjust coil-overs wrong and get no handling.
 

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Corrie said what i intended to saying.
Stronger coils will make it worse you need better shocks. Coils end up giving you the look you want but if you want handling get shocks.

It really sound as if they seriously skimped with the suspension geometry on the new models (not 159)
We are and have put a lot of power through the 156 and GTV wheels with absolutely no wheel hop just perfect control.
The 156 with the better front suspension just put it down a lot easier than a GTV.

Maybe it’s the traction control causing most of the hopping by applying the brakes or something?

Are you sure all the lower control arm bushes are still fine maybe one of them are torn allowing the control arm to move around excessively.
This will play havoc with the geometry and could cause all sorts of strange behaviour.

What is the weight difference from the oe wheels to what you currently have on?
Do you still have the spacers in?
What is the suspension setup Castor Camber and toe?
You made a lot of changes so oe settings will not be optimal!!
 

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The only advise i ever received from the big oom was when I asked him how to gain acceleration with the 916 just when i bought it and he replied.
“Change your shocks and coils”
I did and it helped for more than just acceleration it improved the car as a whole.:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Corrie said what i intended to saying.
Stronger coils will make it worse you need better shocks. Coils end up giving you the look you want but if you want handling get shocks.

It really sound as if they seriously skimped with the suspension geometry on the new models (not 159)
We are and have put a lot of power through the 156 and GTV wheels with absolutely no wheel hop just perfect control.
The 156 with the better front suspension just put it down a lot easier than a GTV.

Maybe it’s the traction control causing most of the hopping by applying the brakes or something?

Are you sure all the lower control arm bushes are still fine maybe one of them are torn allowing the control arm to move around excessively.
This will play havoc with the geometry and could cause all sorts of strange behaviour.

What is the weight difference from the oe wheels to what you currently have on?
Do you still have the spacers in?
What is the suspension setup Castor Camber and toe?
You made a lot of changes so oe settings will not be optimal!!
I presume its a combination of the heavy wheels and the traction controll, that braking kak is not good, also the eDiff maybe?

No spacers in front.
Wheels are heavier than 18's, much heavier.
Caster and camber was changed when car was lowered, will be changed again when car goes to 50mm lower than stock.

I agree, i've made changes and this is to be expected, I've always wanted my suspension checked out, I think I'll have them check it out soon.
 

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That's what lowering does. Lowering a car is an art to get correct and should never be an off the shelf option. You should select coils with shocks that suit your driving style and have corrections done to your suspension geometery to correct any misalignment. Not very easy to do...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I NEVER go round corners fast.
 
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