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Discussion Starter #1
Help needed.

Currently getting a drone above 30mph from the rear of a phase 1 spider. Managed to discount the exhaust and wanted to check if wheel bearings are going, do they drone from moment vehicle moves?

Had the rear up and pulled wheels from side to side and also pulled forward and backwards with no noticable movement.

Dont want to go replacing the bearings to find its something else.

Thanks in advance guys
 

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Quite a common problem on these, sometimes it can be down to the make of tyre. They become mishapen and start to look like a 50p pieces - do a search on here for 50p!

The first thing to do though is to swap the front tyres with the rear ones and see if you still get the noise. Doesn't cost you anything to try it :thumbs:
 

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I had to replace my rear wheel bearings although it was actually only one side that was noisy. It's really apparent if you jack up the rear wheels and give them a spin - you'll be in no doubt, but you might remove the brake pads too if you want to be thorough.

-Alex
 

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Does the noise also disappear when you go round corners? If so, that's also a good sign of it being the wheel bearings. However do the tyre swap first and then if the noise disappears, you know it's the tyres.

As for undertaking the job of replacing wheel bearings yourself, then take it on, it shouldn't take very long.

The job roughly entails:
1: Taking the wheel off
2: removing the cap covering the hub nut
3: removing the hub nut **YOU MUST USE NEW NUTS SO PURCHASE BEFORE YOU DO THIS** and spacer.
4. Taking off the old wheel bearing
5: putting the new one on and refitting everything else, ensuring that the nut is done up to the correct torque.
 

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Does the noise also disappear when you go round corners? If so, that's also a good sign of it being the wheel bearings. However do the tyre swap first and then if the noise disappears, you know it's the tyres.

As for undertaking the job of replacing wheel bearings yourself, then take it on, it shouldn't take very long.

The job roughly entails:
1: Taking the wheel off
2: removing the cap covering the hub nut
3: removing the hub nut **YOU MUST USE NEW NUTS SO PURCHASE BEFORE YOU DO THIS** and spacer.
4. Taking off the old wheel bearing
5: putting the new one on and refitting everything else, ensuring that the nut is done up to the correct torque.
I think in addition there's removing the brake caliper carrier (two bolts from behind) and then the brake disc, which may be rusted onto the hub (I find it helps to hammer onto the disc around the bolt holes as if trying to hammer the brake disc on - not off - the shock loosens the disc without risk of damage.)

My torque wrench didn't go up to the huge torque specified, so I just used a long extension tube on a breaker bar - that's what got it off, so it's what gets it on, too.

I mentioned the torque figure in a recent thread about 156 wheels and bolt torque, I'll see if I can find it. EDIT: see http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/313298-156-wheels-onto-gtv-ok.html#post4518163 (266-294Nm).

-Alex
 

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Johnny, be careful putting the outer bearing on over the stub lip, i used a block of wood and be sure to add extra grease to the bearing before installing otherwise it will probably fail again in a few months, as for torque i used a breaker bar and did the nut up as tight as i could with my arms and its been effective sofar (Touch wood)
 

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Thanks Alex. Just checked mine and only goes up to 200nm! :eek:
Exactly - same here.

Note Eau Rouge's comments :thumbs:
When you get it undone, just note the effort and the tool used, then repeat that to reinstall. I had to jump up and down on a long tube fitted over the breaker bar handle but then again I'm pretty limp-wristed :lol:

I didn't add any grease to my beatings (let's try that again, BEARINGS, damn iPhone) and now wish I had...

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #12
:lol: You'd think after Alfa ownership, we'd have a full compliment of tools and have arms the size of thighs by now :rolleyes:

Seriously Alex, thanks for the heads up on the bearing grease. Gonna have to wait till tomorrow before I can source some bearings then sort :cry:
 

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I don't think extra grease is necessary. You are not meant to split the bearing. If I have one thing to add it's to make sure you get the bearing exactly square before trying to push it on. The tolerance between the stub axle and bearing is very fine. If you try to push the bearing on even slightly misaligned it gets stuck and will fall to pieces when you try to pull it off again.
 

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Johnny, did you try swapping front and rear wheels over... it was the tyres that caused this noise on my car.

Kinda sounds like going over one of those quiet road surface rumble strips all the time.... a sort of humming.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Turtle, I haven't yet. But will try tomorrow before ordering new bearings. I did try spinning the wheels and one side (with brake pads off) was not as free moving as the other.

Tyres have only been on the car for a few months too but will still try.

john
 

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Turtle, I haven't yet. But will try tomorrow before ordering new bearings. I did try spinning the wheels and one side (with brake pads off) was not as free moving as the other.

Tyres have only been on the car for a few months too but will still try.

john
OK sounds like you have almost ruled Tyres out then

Let us know how it drives tomorrow!
 

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Bearings can be had for around £45 per side, I found eBay to be the cheapest way of getting them.
They come in 2 flavours as an assembly according to ABS sensor type.
(I imagine your car being a 98 will use the earlier type)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Managed to get SKF ones from Alternative Auto's at £65 each :thumbs: Only thing is, due to the holidays, the earliest I can get them will be Friday :(
 
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