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Stelvio QV my20
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I have to confess I did notice a difference in sub 7 degrees in wet conditions in my 159 in the winter. Could be a placebo affect I accept. I cannot justify paying for a spare set of wheels and tyres on the Stelvio just yet though.
Why get a set of wheels? Get a set of tyres and just swap them. You get to wear your pretty stock wheels all the time and you know your tyres are balanced twice a year. Hypothetically, If your summers last 20k, the split sets will last you 45k (22.5k each) because summers wear worse in the cold (more skipping less rolling because compound is too hard). So if you will wear through more than one set of tyres during your ownership the only cost is mounting but that also means you balance your tyres twice a year so they drive and wear better.
In terms of feeling the difference 3-10c (typical winter weather) is really a crossover area. They would be similar performance to summers in both wet and dry so the perceived differences could be tyre wall stiffness difference or softer tyre compound of the winters. Also if you move from latitude which is more road and comfort to something like pilot alpins or scorpions which is more sporty and equivalent to PS4 or pz4 summers they may feel grippier than your comfort summers in 5-7c but that is not like for like swap. Where you will start feeling the real difference is approaching zero (esp on cold tyres) and also when you go to any true winter surface like black ice on early morning drive or slush or compacted snow - it’s night and day difference as summer can just give with no warning and if you are not 100% dialled in the repair will be more than a set of tyres plus all the psychological trauma. On any inclines it’s magnified. It gives you the confidence not to worry.
The only time they underperform is on the dry surfaces going into teens and driving aggressively - they overheat and become squishy. But if it’s a good tyre it will lose grip progressively - you will feel that same as you feel lower grip on any tyres in the wet and just drive less aggressively. But we are taking freak hot weather in winter and dry. In the wet with extra cooling winters can easily go into high 20s with no noticeable drop off.
 

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Why get a set of wheels? Get a set of tyres and just swap them. You get to wear your pretty stock wheels all the time and you know your tyres are balanced twice a year. Hypothetically, If your summers last 20k, the split sets will last you 45k (22.5k each) because summers wear worse in the cold (more skipping less rolling because compound is too hard). So if you will wear through more than one set of tyres during your ownership the only cost is mounting but that also means you balance your tyres twice a year so they drive and wear better.
In terms of feeling the difference 3-10c (typical winter weather) is really a crossover area. They would be similar performance to summers in both wet and dry so the perceived differences could be tyre wall stiffness difference or softer tyre compound of the winters. Also if you move from latitude which is more road and comfort to something like pilot alpins or scorpions which is more sporty and equivalent to PS4 or pz4 summers they may feel grippier than your comfort summers in 5-7c but that is not like for like swap. Where you will start feeling the real difference is approaching zero (esp on cold tyres) and also when you go to any true winter surface like black ice on early morning drive or slush or compacted snow - it’s night and day difference as summer can just give with no warning and if you are not 100% dialled in the repair will be more than a set of tyres plus all the psychological trauma. On any inclines it’s magnified. It gives you the confidence not to worry.
The only time they underperform is on the dry surfaces going into teens and driving aggressively - they overheat and become squishy. But if it’s a good tyre it will lose grip progressively - you will feel that same as you feel lower grip on any tyres in the wet and just drive less aggressively. But we are taking freak hot weather in winter and dry. In the wet with extra cooling winters can easily go into high 20s with no noticeable drop off.
I am always very nervous about having tyres changed given how some tyre fitters get the tyres off the rims with that big crowbar, so changing them twice a year does not appeal at all!

I spend all year trying not to kerb the wheels. Maybe I am being overly anal and paranoid here I accept, but I don’t get the feeling that mechanics and tyre fitters are that conscientious, given how many times I find things not put back together properly and screws and bolts missing after having work done.

Tend to keep my cars for years so I like things done properly not bodged. I have had an undertray come off a car twice on a motorway not long after an oil change by a dealer too. How hard can it be to put them back on properly?
 

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Stelvio QV my20
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That’s a reasonable concern. I would not go with the cheapest guy or someone who is nearest and I would specifically discuss the point of what they do if they damage the wheel or break the tyre (occasionally happens during fitting) - the right answer is get you a new one - not a repair. I drive 30min to thetyreshop in chingford - they use plastic heads in the machines to avoid damaging the wheels. My main reason though is they do road force balancing on Hunter machines - it’s extra but worth it.
Try to find one that gets lots of business and has some fancy cars get done there and is willing to own up any damage. They would not be the cheapest but your risks are minimal then.
 

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Just had 2 year service and a raft of warranty fixes:
  • Another new fuel flap - hope this is the last time
  • New lower rear hatch, to hopefully stop the shower whenever you open after rain
  • New battery, need to check what they fitted...
  • New radio power/volume button, last one kept sticking
So glad to have her back (loan car was a Panda!!!).

Now want to just go for a long drive...but alas....
 
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With lockdown seems like CTEK needs to go on once a week now. An occasional essential drive even taking longer routes is not long enough to keep battery happy. Attached eyelets lead to the battery posts so I won’t need to open battery cover and mess around with clamps any more.

Car not been driven since last wash on Friday so just went around the with quick detailer spray to try and find things to clean.
Turns out my steel AR valve caps seized up. Had to use spanner to get them off - they were full of salt. This was never a problem with plastic caps because their thread goes all the way. These only have thread from about half way so the rest is a free to fill up with rubbish. They do have rubber seals and the salt didn’t go past the thread into valves but still, if you get them make sure to take off regularly.
 

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I was telling the dealer somebody had stolen my shiny chromed AR valve caps a few years back and he told me I was lucky as they’ve had to cut the things off to check the pressures when servicing cars. Never again!
 

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Aluminium valves and steel caps should be quite “happy” to galvanically corrode and seaze - it’s an odd choice of material esp as they don’t match silver alloy wheels nor the black ones. But the plastic imitations I had from amazon at first felt so cheap to use I just couldn’t bear them - I check my tyre pressure too often and it matters.
I’ll put some bike oil on the thread next time. May be thicker grease from the hammer drill, should reduce metal contact points. I hope it was just salt and my frequent use should keep them moving.
 

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With lockdown seems like CTEK needs to go on once a week now. An occasional essential drive even taking longer routes is not long enough to keep battery happy. Attached eyelets lead to the battery posts so I won’t need to open battery cover and mess around with clamps any more.

Car not been driven since last wash on Friday so just went around the with quick detailer spray to try and find things to clean.
Turns out my steel AR valve caps seized up. Had to use spanner to get them off - they were full of salt. This was never a problem with plastic caps because their thread goes all the way. These only have thread from about half way so the rest is a free to fill up with rubbish. They do have rubber seals and the salt didn’t go past the thread into valves but still, if you get them make sure to take off regularly.
Had the CTEK on before the battery replacement, hope the battery last a bit better now... Else will have to do the same.
 

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I was telling the dealer somebody had stolen my shiny chromed AR valve caps a few years back and he told me I was lucky as they’ve had to cut the things off to check the pressures when servicing cars. Never again!
I bought some of those in the Mopar Black Friday week. One look when they arrived and I decided that they’d only go on for the summer. I’ll use rubber ones again once the autumn arrives
 

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I read up on galvanic corrosion and it seems that it needs highly corrosive (alkaline or acidic) liquid to cause it. So being stuffed with salt in the wet and left like that would be a problem. I’m going to put some silicone grease on mine too so salt doesn’t create an electrolytic connection. Non winter use should also be fine.
 

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Ordered one of these as a seventieth birthday present to myself.


I'm constantly dragging our cocker spaniel or my mountain bikes in and out of the back of our Stelvio and currently protect the bumper with nothing more than an old curtain as I thought the original price of £100 was a bit exorbitant. The sale price of £73 is still a bit silly but hey-ho.

Took an age for me to negotiate the Mopar e-store website.
 

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Ordered one of these as a seventieth birthday present to myself.


I'm constantly dragging our cocker spaniel or my mountain bikes in and out of the back of our Stelvio and currently protect the bumper with nothing more than an old curtain as I thought the original price of £100 was a bit exorbitant. The sale price of £73 is still a bit silly but hey-ho.

Took an age for me to negotiate the Mopar e-store wesite.
It is very very good quality too. Got mine in the Mopar Black Friday week for £68. You will be really pleased with it.
 

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There is me clicking the email link expecting to see a screenshot of 3.2sec to 60 from performance screen.
I didn’t know they could go this far. Well done.
How has it been owning one for what looks like well over a year? What wore off?
 

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Impressive as mine just crossed over the 8500 mile mark in 26 months. Can’t really justify the thing!
 

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Small thing but it impressed me, probably more than it should have!

Recently had a Williams F1 ceramic coating and today I found some bird poo in a number of places. Hosed it and it just slid off the paintwork with no wiping required at all.

little things and little minds I guess:)
 

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Summer tyres went on. Skippy is back but not terrible. More importantly better turn in. Could probably still run winters - scorpions been excellent in dry low single digits but it’s turning warmer now and hardly any rain so summers are probably marginally better now and more enjoyable when sun shines plus that customary Easter cold snap and snow might never come.
 

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Cleaned the wheels today from all the tyre shop muck and leftover wheel weights sticky tape. Also cleaned and dressed tyres.

Then had a go at exhaust tips.
What a nightmare.
The outside has cleaned up easily with some soap then some tar remover and IPA. But where the chrome rolls over the top and goes a tiny bit inside ( essentially the narrowest part of the tip) on the outside pipes where most of my driving happens and where all that fuel gets spat into exhaust for pops and crackles it took me forever and some. It is not paintwork perfect still but you need to get on your knees to see the remaining spots. That’s just after 1.5k miles. I will now be cleaning those to perfection after every wash instead of just cursory rinse.
 
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