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Howdy....

Think I might have cocked up today....

I made a mistake whilst doing a few bits such as lower suspension arm dust cover and front discs and pads etc. However, I had read somewhere what the disc retaining bolt was accessed through the hub.

So I unscrewed the bolt but have realised that it was actually one of the bolts for the wheel bearing housing.
I then tried to screw it back in but it won't bite!!

Any advice greatly appreciated....

Also happy to take the abuse for being a numpty
 

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Howdy....

Think I might have cocked up today....

I made a mistake whilst doing a few bits such as lower suspension arm dust cover and front discs and pads etc. However, I had read somewhere what the disc retaining bolt was accessed through the hub.

So I unscrewed the bolt but have realised that it was actually one of the bolts for the wheel bearing housing.
I then tried to screw it back in but it won't bite!!

Any advice greatly appreciated....

Also happy to take the abuse for being a numpty
Is this a 164 or a 166?

If I've understood correctly, you've undone the very large nut in the centre of the hub, that goes on to the end of the driveshaft, is that correct? On some cars, that's a left-handed thread on one side of the car, so just check you're turning it the right way. Let us know which car, (also which engine, transmission and year), and someone might be able to help more.
 

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Makes a huge difference. I also did rear struts. Waiting for front sway bar links.
Great to hear about 164s getting "shown some love"! I don't know if they're available in the 'States, but the big rubber bush on the rear end of the front wishbone is thought to contribute a lot to the toque steer. You can buy stiffer aftermarket polyurethane bushes, (which I use once the OEM ones have gone soggy), and they do seem to make a noticeable difference for not much penalty in harshness.
 

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Is this a 164 or a 166?

If I've understood correctly, you've undone the very large nut in the centre of the hub, that goes on to the end of the driveshaft, is that correct? On some cars, that's a left-handed thread on one side of the car, so just check you're turning it the right way. Let us know which car, (also which engine, transmission and year), and someone might be able to help more.
Sorry forgot to include those snippets...

166 2.5 2003 Manual

No it's not the big nut it is the clean one here....
947074
 

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Sorry forgot to include those snippets...

166 2.5 2003 Manual

No it's not the big nut it is the clean one here.... View attachment 947074
Sorry, I've never worked on a 166! Those look like socket head bolts (e.g. Allen bolts or Torx). How did you get the key or bit into the head to undo it? Is there a hole in the axle flange? If so, take the screw right out and have a look at the thread on the end to see if it's damaged. Hopefully, the corresponding female thread in the upright won't be damaged.
 

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Cheers Avo...

Yes the holes in the axle flange gave access for the hex/allen key but the hole isn't big enough to allow the bolt all the way out. This particular hex bolt was noticeable cleaner front on than the others....

I'm assuming that to take the axle flange off, I'd have to take off the really big nut etc which I don't really want to do.... But if needs must....
 

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Cheers Avo...

Yes the holes in the axle flange gave access for the hex/allen key but the hole isn't big enough to allow the bolt all the way out. This particular hex bolt was noticeable cleaner front on than the others....

I'm assuming that to take the axle flange off, I'd have to take off the really big nut etc which I don't really want to do.... But if needs must....
Cheers Avo...

Yes the holes in the axle flange gave access for the hex/allen key but the hole isn't big enough to allow the bolt all the way out. This particular hex bolt was noticeable cleaner front on than the others....

I'm assuming that to take the axle flange off, I'd have to take off the really big nut etc which I don't really want to do.... But if needs must....
Lol. If you take the hub nut off (you will need an extension bar and a scaffold pole to undo it if it's never been off before), you will never get the hub out of the bearing without destroying the bearing. Now you've taken the disc and caliper off, you can't even stop the driveshaft from turning whilst you undo the nut either. D'oh!

The inner race will be very much fused to the hub if it's the original bearing, so you will need a heavy duty pullers to get it out - you will end up with the wheel bearing in bits, and having the cut/grind/prize the remains of the inner race off the hub. That's what I had to do and that's the nightmare I had with both of my front ones on my 166. So you'll wanna buy a new wheel bearing now. I did also have to cut off the bolt heads as they were too rusty to undo, although yours look cleaner than mine were so they might undo - ... So yeah, nice one. :)
 

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Isn't it just a complete bolt-on bearing pack though? i.e. if the hub nut isn't disturbed, the whole assembly is just held to the upright by those cap head bolts? I'd be inclined to turn the hub so that the hole lines up with each caphead in turn, and slacken the ones that are tight, then have another go at starting that one in the photo again. Possibly with a screwdriver wedged against the rim of the cap head bolt and the back face of the flange, to try and push it into engage with its threads. Still a risk of cross-threading, but I'd be inclined to do that first, before shelling-out on a new bearing?
 

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Isn't it just a complete bolt-on bearing pack though? i.e. if the hub nut isn't disturbed, the whole assembly is just held to the upright by those cap head bolts? I'd be inclined to turn the hub so that the hole lines up with each caphead in turn, and slacken the ones that are tight, then have another go at starting that one in the photo again. Possibly with a screwdriver wedged against the rim of the cap head bolt and the back face of the flange, to try and push it into engage with its threads. Still a risk of cross-threading, but I'd be inclined to do that first, before shelling-out on a new bearing?
Cheers Avo... Will try that at the weekend if the weather is suitable....
 

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No, the wheel hub/flange doesn't come with a wheel bearing, it's not a consumable part. It is an interference fit in the bearing, and is press fitted into the bearing after you bolt the wheel bearing to the stub axle casting. This is why you can't get the bolt out, as it doesn't fit together that way.

You could try what you said yeah - even if you spend an hour trying that, it's a big saving over the time it takes to otherwise replace the wheel bearing etc.

947147
 

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Correction: You can (with extension bar) remove the hub-nut, but when prising off the hub, you will indeed destroy the bearing as described above.
 

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Thanks every one....
 

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Well, I started the 164 up today, after its water pump, timing belt and a few other bits and pieces. Not 100% successful, it has to be said. On the plus side, the engine still runs, so it looks lie the belt went on in the right place! However, I tried replacing the o-rings on the hydraulic belt de-tensioner stud and backplate with the closest, easily available size I could find here in the UK and I'm not sure I've got away with it. I didn't run the engine for long (need more antifreeze so the coolant isn't up to the right level yet), but I thought I could see the tiniest weep from the end of the tensioner stud. :(

Will try running it for longer once I've got more antifreeze.

Also replaced the brake master cylinder, because I had a lot of pedal travel, but I now have EVEN MORE pedal travel. :(:(. Looks like more bleeding will be necessary!

Oh well, such are the tribulations of aged Alfa maintenance... It's not like I had anywhere to go in this lockdown anyway!
 

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Indeed the tribulations.... Hope you get the old girl sorted.....
 

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947366


A bit of cleaning on the caliper and lots of wire brushing in prep for Bilthamber dynax ub.

Inicidentally, abs sensor bracket / cover is virtually non existant....
 
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You could not find the right overhaul kit for the de-tensioner?
They do still exist, Jason at Alfissimo International has them at a reasonable price (although it gets a bit more expensive with UK shipping and duties) but just at present, getting goods into the UK is something of a problem... :(. I don't really want to risk things getting lost amongst the piles of rotting fish and vegetables at our borders!

The other reason, of course, is that I'm mean! I can swap the leaking o-rings for a very small amount of money and, if they work, I have the reference numbers for more o-rings long after the rebuild kits become unavailable. It's just an experiment, really.
 
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