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Back in 2016 when I was rebuilding after the Great Swirl Flap disaster, I asked Ned at Autolusso about oil feed to the turbo, since a lot of cars insist on new pipes.. My turbo had escaped damage, aside from a little interior rust (probably the previous owner, who'd occasionally run the car for a year while he pondered what to do) that caused the vanes to stick and overboost. Ned said 'get rid of the filter in the banjo bolt - they kill turbos'. But it's oil that's just passed through the paper filter anyhow, so can't do anything useful.

This filter is a tiny tube of very fine metal gauze with only a couple of very small feed holes to the turbo, and it eventually becomes blocked with sludge - and then the turbo bearings are destroyed through oil starvation. Sludge is of course a particular risk with a car that has neglected oil changes. Of course, if you just put it back with a good or new turbo, the oil feed may still be limited and the new turbo will be quickly murdered. So I drilled it out.

This seems to have been a Very Good Idea, since the turbo is still near silent and continues to works perfectly on my Stage 1 mapped car. Mind you, I use Fuchs Titan-S 10W40 estar oil, change the oil at 6k mls max (though longer time period than 1 year), allow oil to warm up through gentle use, and generally drive in a clutch/DMF preserving manner.
Yea I remember reading this advice too, might have been yourself commenting it...

I've kept up with oil changes well ahead of schedule, every 6-8k miles for the 160k miles that I've been driving it for... Also had decent oil for all its life (Fuchs GT1 XTL 5W-40, or a similar full-syn offering from Gulf/Motul). Quietly confident that it's not sludge that's killed it, but we'll wait to see what Loz reports when they get their hands on it... But 194k miles isn't exactly a bad run for a factory turbo...

If it gets fixed I'll get a replacement banjo from AlfaWorkshop and drill out the gauze - not that I think I'll get another 194k miles out of the rest of the car!
 

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Fitted a new gear selector mechanism pieces to my 156. Mine was only slightly broken, but the bolts holding the top part to be bottom part were loose so I changed everything. Good thing I spent the extra and got new roller bearings, as there was no way I could have been bothered to push the old ones out. Although the old ones were just plastic bushes, not a roller bearing.

Composite material Flooring Auto part Carmine Nickel

What an awful job to do. Especially when the car is only elevated by 50cm or so.

I can't test the car yet, as I'm still working on the front and rear suspension...
 

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More sills.
First time using weld through primer and gasless wire. Both worked well.
Didn't have time to flatten the plug welds but sprayed to stop them rusting.
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Just had the phonecall from Laurence at Autolusso South...

1. Turbo is indeed knackered.Siezed solid. No missing bits though it seems, so doesn't look like anything downstream of the turbo got dammaged by flying turbines/compressor wheels!
2. No corrosion, underside all looks good. Looking back over the MOT history, it seems I completely made up the corrosion advisory...
3. Driveshafts are also knackered - as expected.

I count this as an absolute success! Turbo is off for a rebuild, engine will get a new set of belts and a waterpump, and I'll sort the driveshafts at home. Anyone got a good source of spider bearings for original shafts? I've got my factory originals in the garage to rebuild...
 

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Just had the phonecall from Laurence at Autolusso South...

1. Turbo is indeed knackered.Siezed solid. No missing bits though it seems, so doesn't look like anything downstream of the turbo got dammaged by flying turbines/compressor wheels!
2. No corrosion, underside all looks good. Looking back over the MOT history, it seems I completely made up the corrosion advisory...
3. Driveshafts are also knackered - as expected.

I count this as an absolute success! Turbo is off for a rebuild, engine will get a new set of belts and a waterpump, and I'll sort the driveshafts at home. Anyone got a good source of spider bearings for original shafts? I've got my factory originals in the garage to rebuild...
I managed to locate new joints for decent money .. think the gta is different but inners are the same outers smaller ... i used shafttec but i had to go though a trade supplier to get them ordered. inners 30 quid outers 60 iirc
 

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I managed to locate new joints for decent money .. think the gta is different but inners are the same outers smaller ... i used shafttec but i had to go though a trade supplier to get them ordered. inners 30 quid outers 60 iirc
Yea I'm comparing options now...

There's Genuine Alfa bearings for ~£100 each, or Birth branded bearings for £30 from Alfa Workshop.

A driveshaft rebuld kit (spider bearings, boot, clamps, hub-nut, but no grease) from Autolusso's parts shop for £100.

Or I could go Shop4Parts and get bearings, boot, clips, grease, and a new hub nut (Birth brand all round) for £32 per side including delivery.

At the moment I'm thinking Shop4Parts at £64 all in (I'll get bits for the next service at the same time too...), unless someone turns up to tell me the Birth parts are made of cheese and fall apart prematurely.

None of this is any good if it's the outer CV joints that are no good though... I'll have to have a rummage this weekend with my old shafts.

Other options are a full new set of SKF shafts (£235 ish for the pair...), or cheapo J&R's (£100 for the pair).
 

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I had an errand to run in the city and since the Focus was last used by my wife - and hence the seats are in the wrong position for me - I decided it was a good excuse to get the GT out into the open for a bit.

After my errand I gave it a nice cleaning and since I noticed some shuddering/janking on shutdown I decided to give it a small italian tuneup (read: I revved its balls off for a couple of miles, in the 3500-4000 zone, thats quite high for a diesel)

I'm suspecting the shuddering is due to a blown lower turbo hose and therefore clogged up butterfly valve, or at least that's what I read, so the tuneup was to help with this. I would be lying if I said I wasn't sacred, because it's my first bigger revving of the engine since I changed the timing and the belt might be slightly undertensioned. I'll take a look at it someday.

I managed to arrive home in the "golden hour" so I took some pictures as well.
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<QUOTE>
None of this is any good if it's the outer CV joints that are no good though... I'll have to have a rummage this weekend with my old shafts.
</QUOTE>
Any sign of worn cups and they ain't worth repairing IMO. Last time I looked a new cup was around £200. A worn one will quickly ruin the new tripod.

I ended up with new SKF shafts, via Amazon, and no regrets about doing so. Can't really understand how that much good quality engineering is possible for the price. The older one is 3yrs now.
 

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Yea I'm comparing options now...

There's Genuine Alfa bearings for ~£100 each, or Birth branded bearings for £30 from Alfa Workshop.

A driveshaft rebuld kit (spider bearings, boot, clamps, hub-nut, but no grease) from Autolusso's parts shop for £100.

Or I could go Shop4Parts and get bearings, boot, clips, grease, and a new hub nut (Birth brand all round) for £32 per side including delivery.

At the moment I'm thinking Shop4Parts at £64 all in (I'll get bits for the next service at the same time too...), unless someone turns up to tell me the Birth parts are made of cheese and fall apart prematurely.

None of this is any good if it's the outer CV joints that are no good though... I'll have to have a rummage this weekend with my old shafts.

Other options are a full new set of SKF shafts (£235 ish for the pair...), or cheapo J&R's (£100 for the pair).
I recall doing my 156 with an Original Birth Tripod joint. Went in OK and worked. Lots of gunge to clean out. I'll be looking out to see how it is with the recon turbo.
 
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Managed to scrape down the other 2 wheel arches and rust convert spray them, so at least they'll just need a lick of zinc paint then maybe some wax on top as extra protection.

Finally fitted the xenon collar I had as one of the holding tabs had snapped off.

However the brake pipe on the front offside has sprung a leak further up behind the wheel arch in the engine bay, I suspect it's at the bend as there's some sort of clip that seemed to be rubbing against the pipe. Bought another union kit, this time a small hand held one. Will try to make up another brake pipe when it all gets here however if not I'll have to work out a way of getting it down to my specialist! Neverending brake saga!!

Also not sure I'd recommend painting callipers or at least not a home brew job, whilst they look "ok" on my car I'm not entirely sure they'll stand the test of time whenever I start using the car again! Red is so easily dirtied if they're so much as touched!!
 

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Getting around the four corners of the car... Rear shock absorber at the moment.

The top nut would not come off. I rounded off the allen key hole in the shaft so there was only one thing to do! Carefully used an angle grinder and managed to cut through the rod...

Those rods are super stuff. A hacksaw made no mark, not even a good quality file. I put the top stub of the shaft in the vice to then undo the nut, but the shaft just spun around. In a metal vice! No marks on the shaft though (well probably microscopic marks).

Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Automotive tire Suspension Gas Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Rim Fender

It was completely stuffed. Zero rebound, and when standing the shaft actually dropped down and had to be pulled up.

Not bad for what I guess are originals, 19 years and 198,000 kms.

Also a picture of my wheel arch. To just confirm to disbelievers, that yes (mostly) rust free 156's do exist.

I also replaced the hub bush.
 

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I had an errand to run in the city and since the Focus was last used by my wife - and hence the seats are in the wrong position for me - I decided it was a good excuse to get the GT out into the open for a bit.

After my errand I gave it a nice cleaning and since I noticed some shuddering/janking on shutdown I decided to give it a small italian tuneup (read: I revved its balls off for a couple of miles, in the 3500-4000 zone, thats quite high for a diesel)

I'm suspecting the shuddering is due to a blown lower turbo hose and therefore clogged up butterfly valve, or at least that's what I read, so the tuneup was to help with this. I would be lying if I said I wasn't sacred, because it's my first bigger revving of the engine since I changed the timing and the belt might be slightly undertensioned. I'll take a look at it someday.

I managed to arrive home in the "golden hour" so I took some pictures as well. View attachment 960433 View attachment 960434
Are those ti wheels on your GT? They look great on the GT.
 

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2005 Alfa Romeo 147 1.6l TS Lusso 5Door
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Took the plunge and ordered a brand new gear lever assembly for my 147 1.6 TS. £100 plus that I will never see again 😂😂

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Changed the near-side front lower wishbone on my SW. Well mostly, rain stopped play as I got the wishbone and its mounting bolts in, but that is the hard bit done, now I just have to put the rest of it back together. Last time I did this job I really struggled to align the mounting bolts so this time I removed the upright/drive-shaft. I could then get the wishbone in horizontally so the mountings sat flush on the subframe and the bolts would go straight in. Previously I had had to force the mountings down with G-clamps. I only jacked the nearside hoping the weight on the other wheel would lift the anti-roll bar enough to allow the wishbone to sit horizontally, but in the end I had to wind it up a bit with a Spanish windlass to the top wishbone mounting.

My under-tray is now held on with a variegated array of fasteners, which have to go back in ‘their’ hole. This makes refitting it a test of memory and a right faf. I couldn’t be bothered and hole sawed through it in way of the front mounting bolts – much easier.

Better weather tomorrow so hopefully I finish and get my tracking/MOT done and my car back.

Update: had to wait a day for the tracking but all done now.
 

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Silenced my creaking clutch pedal; failed with a variety of methods because the push-rod bush jammed on its shaft and I didn’t dare force it for fear of breaking the master cylinder. Eventually I found that (on this design) it’s safe to do that, and that with it disconnected from the pedal and pulled back and to one side it would pop free of the piston by a couple of mm. I injected red rubber grease into the gap with a syringe and worked it around by rotating the rod. Silence. I really hope it lasts because I hadn’t realised how much the creak was bugging me until it was gone.
 

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Booked it in for an MOT failure. I know it needs some things, I want to know what else it needs on top of what I’ve budgeted for. I’ll get back to you all on Tuesday
 

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The hardest thing I’ve done to the 156 since I got it - untangled the rear lap belt.
It’s really been bugging me. When I got it the lap belt was badly twisted many times over from the tab that tightens the belt. After 20 minutes of huffing and puffing whilst making it worse, it’s turned out ok!





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