[Major_Clanger]

Bought it!

 

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Started at 1800, finished at 0500. It was a long night!

Changed both rear springs (one was broken)
Rebuilt one Koni damper
Clean and service all rear suspension components
Undersealed bodywork where top caps sit
Oil and filter change
Fit Brembo 'large family' calipers to front (Took a while using different sized shims to align perfectly)
Fit 330 x 28mm discs
Bleed system through
All fittings drilled for lockwire
Prep for new master cylinder with larger piston
Drink lots of tea
Listen to R2 all night

 

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Today I have mostly been lying on my side in the rain, changing a top wishbone and turbo (seized actuator).

Deep joy!

 

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Today I am mostly getting fed up with the car.....

Sun's out so decided to replace the NSF wheel bearing which has been grumbling for a while. Assumed that all would be straightforward since I had that side apart two years ago, but no! Anyway, removed the upright and knocked off the hub which has taken the outer shell of the inner bearing with it. I suspect it might have spun on the hub which could make it a sod to remove.

I'm now off for a walk with the dog while the hub warms up in the oven. If that doesn't work I think I'll have to grind it off unless you can think of another way?

 

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I'm honestly very worried about my wheel bearings as well, the car gets extremely noisy around 60-90 km/h but I'm afraid to lift the car and give the wheels a test.

Why afraid to lift the car up?

 

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I'm afraid to know for sure it's a bearing issue, because I don't think I can do the change myself and I'd rather just turning up the music.

It's gonna be inevitable tho, so now I'm just wasting time not doing anything with it.

Do it, you'll be fine! It's not a technically difficult job at all, just half a dozen nuts to undo. You will need a 36mm thin-walled socket and a ball joint splitter. If you're vaguely local then I'll give you a hand....

 

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Amassing parts ready for my mini refit.... So far the courier has delivered Eibach ARBs with Powerflex bushes, adjustable drop links, Yellowstuff front pads, standard rear pads, additional gauges (oil temp and pressure), perspex/leather to make the gauge housing, 20mm hubcentric wheel spacers, silicone turbo to airbox hose with new MAF, new Proxes T1Rs all round, Fuchs gearbox oil....... Just waiting for a friend's lift to be available and then it'll be endless cups of tea, sandwiches and then beer. Should have it all done and 4-wheel aligned over a week-end.

 

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Today I have mostly been removing the wheel spacers that I put on yesterday.

Hub-centric and well made 20mm spacers but I really didn't like the results. I admit the only reason I fitted them was aesthetics and increasing scrub can have positive benefits as well as negative ones, but the steering didn't feel quite as precise as before. Perhaps that was just my imagination but I don't think so.

I shall stick them on the Myford and turn them down in 2mm increments and see if I can find a point where I like them.

 

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I want to sell it. I’ve had enough of throwing money at it now. One problem after another

Don't sell it! Chances are that after all the work you've done the buyer will be getting a good car.

 

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Changed the OSF upper wishbone. The old one only lasted 3,000 mls and is a perfect example of 'buy cheap, buy twice'. I've just fitted a TRW part which is what I should have done in the first place......... Also changed the g'box oil while it was up in the air.

 

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Started the fascia to house additional dials. Should have it done tomorrow if I have time to get under the car.

 

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Finito Benito....

 

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Looks good, like it

Thanks. I can't claim any credit; the idea came from another AO member. I was quite pleased with changing the illumination colour though..... I just painted the bulbs with thinned red paint!

 

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That was a long day..... Fitted Eibach ARBs front and rear with adjustable drop links, new rear discs and pads, TPMS and sender unit for oil temp gauge.

 

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I would like an oil temp meter, where did you fit the sender?

Mine's a diesel.... Look on the oil filter casing and you'll see two hex headed grub screws. They're blanking plugs and M18 x 1.5. I used an adaptor (most sender units are 3/8UNF) and PTFE. All fine, no leaks and reads okay.

 

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Did the long bolt come out ok, or did it snap?

All came apart without issue, even the centre section exhaust bolts. Which long bolt?

 

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Thanks both: Is the set-up the same on the 20 valve? I can’t see the blanking plugs from above.

Look from under the front, the plugs are on the offside of the housing facing forwards, one above the other.

 

[Major_Clanger]

Im impressed. The long bolt goes through bottom rear strut

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Ah that one.... Removed those a couple of years ago when I changed a cracked rear spring, no issues. Didn't need to touch them this time.

 

[Major_Clanger]

Hello,

can you please tell me more about the adjustable drop links, pictures, link where you bought them, price, etc.?

Thank you

The drop links are from Larkspeed but there are loads available out there. Don't bother with super cheap ones though as the knuckle will fail quickly. The ones I bought have different length centre sections to suit a variety of cars.

Very simple to set-up...
Remove drop links
Roll car back and forwards to settle suspension in normal position
Put car over a pit or lift up on wheels (4-post lift)
Ensure ARB is at normal position
Measure distance between centres (distance from ARB to strut bracket) and add 5mm
This is the distance the adjustable drop link should be - the ARB should have no play either end, but it shouldn't be preloaded either.
Finally, ensure nothing will foul through the suspension's travel.

Sorry, no pics. Didn't think to take any.

 

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Another day of TLC for the 147.... NSR wheel bearing changed and now much quieter. Easy job, 30 mins in between rain showers.