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Yesterday Changed the slave cylinder which without warning sh*t itself on the M26 ...🤦🏻‍♂️ Car recovered to a good mates house and 13mm Union needed stilsons to get it off, luckily he has a pair because I don’t ! , moles didn’t work and the nut was rounding with a 13 mm spanner ..other than that easy job.

And today removed the fan shroud resistor and measured the “ resistance “ borked so will be replaced , fans coming on but a few degrees after it should, hopefully an easy fix...hot weather has uncovered that either the low speed fan is coming in late or the high speed one coming in early , either way it gets to 98c before the fan kicks in ...it’s not overheated but needs sorting...

other than that the Zoe is coming on very well indeed ...👍
 

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Nice! You do this at home? Or professionally?
If it was a home kit Rod could you let us know the details please? Toyed with the idea of getting one myself but was a bit skeptical about the results but if these have been done with a home kit my concerns are unfounded.
 

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Yes it was a diy kit from Gateros Plating Ltd.
It's Zinc-Nickel and works well although there is a bit of a learning curve. A £30 bench power supply was well worth the expense instead of faffing about with the supplied wire resistor and a car battery. I can monitor the current accurately.
I started about three years ago and the parts I did then are still as bright as when they were plated. It's good to keep the original nuts and bolts, and they do come up like new.
IMG_1661.JPG
 

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Going through my stock of spares I discovered I had acquired two rubber concertinas for the end of each of the handbrake cables at the brake end. Waiting for the solar eclipse to start I decide to fit them to the GTV. (Clouded over at 10.15 and didn’t clear until 12.15 the times for it to start and finish, bügger!)
Anyway, slackened off the tension of the cables to release the end of the cables from the levers and used ‘cork borers’ (metal thinned-walled tubes with a T handle at one end) of successive diameters and some silicone oil to open up the tiny hole of the concertina for the near side cable sufficient for it to slip over the cable nipple. All greased and the larger end of the concertina slipped over the fitting on the outer of the cable. Then the driver side done which took about 1/2 the time. Nothing spectacular but needed doing to prevent water getting into the cables and therefore (possibly) save efforts later on.
I suppose a plastic cone could have done the same thing in opening up the small end of the concertinas but as I have the cork borers I used those. Cables then adjusted to give three clicks on the hand brake lever.
I’ve also used them to get cables through rubber grommets to get a tight fit.
We used cork borers to insert glass tubing through rubber bungs safely. First a small diameter borer goes through from one end of the bung, then a slightly larger borer from the other end, then another from the first end and so on until the glass rod fits through easily, then the last borer used is pulled out leaving the glass rod held firmly by the bung.
Not too boring this, is it? Sorry!
 

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Changed the anti-freeze to Prestone. Drained, flushed with water from hose, drained, flushed with de-ionised water, drained, filled with 50/50 Prestone with distilled water. Something to do once the sun came out and it was due.
 

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Finally, finally, finally got back into the G'rge (however briefly) and popped a wheel on to see how the silver Brembo/330 combo looks under the 17" Teledials. Cos wall and tool cabinet in the way, poor camera angle ... but I like it at this point. Understated (which is what I was after) and could arguably have come from the factory thus.

So the GTV TB remains standard except for the big anchors up front. And thus methinks it shall stay thus ... seeing as I'd like it to part-pay for its 116 successor (1° GT/GTV or 2° GTV6).

955170


The red tint is from ye metal tool cabinet on wheels thingie. Didn't notice it before I looked at the photo!
 

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This morning I tried and failed miserably to replace the rubber grommet for the aerial – might have to ask for advice on this one later as I couldn’t get a grip on the ball

Then I tried to replace the boot badge and seal but failed at that too despite turning the internal locking ring fixture anti-clockwise

So I took out all the boot linings and gave them a good clean as I have a leak from the nearside somewhere – towards the back corner I think now, although the rubber seal looks good

I did manage to take out the black quarter panel strips for a minor victory and will black mastic them back in

Not leak related but should there be anything in these holes either side?

Inked20210531_095208_LI.jpg
 

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I’ve only done one rear badge and it was a while ago but I believe the locking ring is turned clockwise to release it if you look at it from behind the badge, anti-clockwise if looking at the badge.
 

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This morning I tried and failed miserably to replace the rubber grommet for the aerial – might have to ask for advice on this one later as I couldn’t get a grip on the ball

Then I tried to replace the boot badge and seal but failed at that too despite turning the internal locking ring fixture anti-clockwise

So I took out all the boot linings and gave them a good clean as I have a leak from the nearside somewhere – towards the back corner I think now, although the rubber seal looks good

I did manage to take out the black quarter panel strips for a minor victory and will black mastic them back in

Not leak related but should there be anything in these holes either side?

View attachment 955175
Did you take the aerial out before trying to put the rubber grommet in? I found it easier with out, push the grommet in using a small flat screw driver if necessary (be careful not to slip and scratch your paint), the lube up the inside of the grommet with WD40 or washing up liquid and slide the aerial back in from inside. You can hold grommet in with your left hand while pushing the aerial up with your right.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Went to pick the GTV up from Dan a Autolusso North, after a small service including new plugs, and investigation to a slight hesitation.

The compression test Dan did was poor on several cylinders but no CEL or codes stored, so had hoped to get it to NAD and back then in for some major TLC - top end rebuild.

Anyway set off on the 70 oddmile trip home & got off the motorway and about 10-15 miles from home and the CEL starts flashing as the engine is loaded, gingerly make it home, park up, email Dan with the bad news and start looking at transportation costs back up to Autolusso.

Guess if I'm going to NAD it's in the Ipace now ;-(

Been an expensive week, a leak in the OH' shop, the Barge Boards end caps and guttering needing doing on the house, and now the alfa needing several thousand spent on it. . The s2000 is due in for a service in a few weeks - could do with it being a clean bill of health.

S.
 

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Went to pick the GTV up from Dan a Autolusso North, after a small service including new plugs, and investigation to a slight hesitation.

The compression test Dan did was poor on several cylinders but no CEL or codes stored, so had hoped to get it to NAD and back then in for some major TLC - top end rebuild.

Anyway set off on the 70 oddmile trip home & got off the motorway and about 10-15 miles from home and the CEL starts flashing as the engine is loaded, gingerly make it home, park up, email Dan with the bad news and start looking at transportation costs back up to Autolusso.

Guess if I'm going to NAD it's in the Ipace now ;-(

Been an expensive week, a leak in the OH' shop, the Barge Boards end caps and guttering needing doing on the house, and now the alfa needing several thousand spent on it. . The s2000 is due in for a service in a few weeks - could do with it being a clean bill of health.

S.
I know that feeling... The running cost of a house is huge.... Always something to do..... 🍀
 

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When I did the coolant change I saw that the aluminium covered fibre-glass mat shroud/heat shield around the water pipe was flaky so took it off yesterday and peeled off the remaining aluminium, recovered with adhesive backed foil and reinstated the shroud. Ordered 1/2 a square metre (only marginally more expensive than 1/4 square metre) of replacement material and when it arrives I’ll make a new one with new press studs. Couldn’t even find the part number for the shroud let alone a NOS.
Material arrived today and job done. Fits very well. I sealed he edges with super glue to prevent fraying.
 

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Had convinced myself that a CV joint had gone, judging by the clonking coming from the front offside of the car. Jacked it up, only to discover that I hadn't properly tightened the wheel bolts that side... tightened them up, and the knocking has now gone - phew!

Meanwhile, the power steering pump has sprung a leak - fortunately, I have a spare to fit. The game of GTV whack-a-mole continues...

Once I've fitted the power steering pump, the car will be off to the welders to repair the inner front wings. If that works out OK, I have a new offside wishbone to fit plus a set of standard springs... I've given up on the Eibachs as being just too uncomfortable on regular roads, and too low to get the car over the speed bumps around my house without grounding. Must be getting old... :LOL:
 

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Got some bits from totally alfa last week, collected a front cup spoiler in fibre glass and ordered side skirts.
Need to find a throttle cable for ph1 3.0 and finish jobs off to get mot’d
 
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