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Fitted clear side indicators instead of orange ones on the Spider and gave it a thorough wash and polish.

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They do look good on silver... Think I will do my Spider too. Is it a five minute job? 🍀
It is a 5 minute job provided you are very careful not to let the wires and bulb holder disappear into the void behind the wing. The driver’s side seems worse than the passenger side with very little slack. A clothes peg is quite handy to ‘hold’ the wires for you and stop them from disappearing into the car and saving you from a world of hurt.
 
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It is a 5 minute job provided you are very careful not to let the wires and bulb holder disappear into the void behind the wing. The driver’s side seems worse than the passenger side with very little slack. A clothes peg is quite handy to ‘hold’ the wires for you and stop them from disappearing into the car and saving you from a world of hurt.
Great, I will go in armed with clothes peg🍀
 

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I have stopped using mine as I want to avoid driving it with salt on the road :(
 

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There’s a guide here on fitting them. The bulb holder is a twist and pull bayonet fitting.

 

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There’s a guide here on fitting them. The bulb holder is a twist and pull bayonet fitting.

Great, thanks 🍀
 

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Rather better than what FCA tried to rush me when I enquired. So I spent all of 10 minutes searching Teh Interwebs and found some for €1.29 each. Most satisfactory :) from "Lambretta Parts" - www.lambretta-teile.de ...

Thanks tho, Nelly
After the Christmas/NY interruptions, finally scooter'd the GTV. Lambretta sproings fitted. If I am brave, I'll go and bleed the whole system tomorrow or so. Woooo!
 

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2010 Alfa Romeo Mito 1.4, 2003 Alfa Romeo GTV Phase 3 JTS
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Bought £200 worth of belts, tensioners water pump, thermostat, gasket etc for the Twin Spark. Best guess of when belts were done is 2016 so better safe than sorry, considering it's a day's job
 

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Bought £200 worth of belts, tensioners water pump, thermostat, gasket etc for the Twin Spark. Best guess of when belts were done is 2016 so better safe than sorry, considering it's a day's job
That’s a job I need to get the confidence to have a go at now I’ve got the GTV and Spider. Is it difficult?
 

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2010 Alfa Romeo Mito 1.4, 2003 Alfa Romeo GTV Phase 3 JTS
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That’s a job I need to get the confidence to have a go at now I’ve got the GTV and Spider. Is it difficult?
It's not hugely difficult, but it is important to do it carefully, and follow the correct proceedure. This includes using a dial guage to get to TDC, using the cam locks, and also slackening the pulleys on the cams to get the alignment spot on. Once you have the tools and a guide it is much less daunting.
 

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It's not hugely difficult, but it is important to do it carefully, and follow the correct proceedure. This includes using a dial guage to get to TDC, using the cam locks, and also slackening the pulleys on the cams to get the alignment spot on. Once you have the tools and a guide it is much less daunting.
Thanks... I really should invest in the tools and have a go myself. Post Covid next time I’m due getting the belts done, I’ll probably ask my local indy if I can watch while they do it.
 

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There are a few guides on YouTube showing how it is done. You do need the correct cam locks and the dial gauge. Whilst I do slacken the inlet camshaft I’ve never had to do the same for the exhaust camshaft, it has always turned out spot on. I do the tensioner right up and turn the engine over two complete revolutions and put the cam locks back on to check. Of course the tensioner is then set to the right position. Always exactly right but I suppose some have had to slacken it. You also need the Ribe sockets but Torx may be able to do it, I bought the correct tools because I like buying equipment. I already had the dial gauge as we used to set up the ignition timing on the racing two-strokes a certain movement before TDC rather than in degrees.
One thing I made was an outline of the cam belt covers in corriflute with the holes in the right places for bolts. I didn’t have it for the first time and then spent ages getting the correct length bolts in the correct places; they are of different lengths and in some cases very close to each other. I learnt from that.
 

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There are a few guides on YouTube showing how it is done. You do need the correct cam locks and the dial gauge. Whilst I do slacken the inlet camshaft I’ve never had to do the same for the exhaust camshaft, it has always turned out spot on. I do the tensioner right up and turn the engine over two complete revolutions and put the cam locks back on to check. Of course the tensioner is then set to the right position. Always exactly right but I suppose some have had to slacken it. You also need the Ribe sockets but Torx may be able to do it, I bought the correct tools because I like buying equipment. I already had the dial gauge as we used to set up the ignition timing on the racing two-strokes a certain movement before TDC rather than in degrees.
One thing I made was an outline of the cam belt covers in corriflute with the holes in the right places for bolts. I didn’t have it for the first time and then spent ages getting the correct length bolts in the correct places; they are of different lengths and in some cases very close to each other. I learnt from that.
Interesting that you only do the inlet, that one is certainly easier than trying to do the exhaust. I'll try that this time. Also the timing cover bolts are the worst thing about the entire job. Luckily I have a spare cover to hold the bolts now
 
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