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Just want to know how the rest of you fellow GTV drivers warm your engines before giving them some welly. I tend not to rev over 3000rpm until I've been driving for over 10 mins, and after about 5 miles. Is this adequate or am I being overly cautious? I ask as I want my GTV to last and last, so any tips will be appreciated.
 

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I think as long as you drive off carefully rather than letting the beast idle, it'll be okay.

Usually I wait until the water temp is around 70 before I venture over 3000 rpm and I won't cane the beast until it's proper warmed up (water been at "90" for a good 20 minutes).

Biggest danger on the T/S is the cam-belt and tensioner though.. not cam or piston ring wear.

Ralf S.
 

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Start car and put on seat belt and drive off. Keep revs to no more than 3000-3500 RPM until warm and you cannot go too wrong.
 
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i try and keep mine under 3000 rpm until she is nice and toasty.

where i live is very hilly and so sometimes i find i am revving higher than that, if thats the case then i try and refrain from full throttle and also putting the engine under load until it is warm
 

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I'm quite bad for giving it too much welly too early. Especially since where I work I need to go up a big hilly bit of dual carriageway and to get upto speed I need to put some decent revs in.

What is the worst you are doing to the engine by reving quite high when cold?
 

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Good thread................
This is something i think about alot, never did with anycar before i got my Spider. Anyway i never good over 3000 revs untill its at least 70-80 on temp read, i've also never really got it that near to redline. He's the thing i want to ask though, i find when crusing i tend to be a bit like a cab driver i.e. maybe get into to higher gear to early like go from 1st 2nd 3rd really quick , my spider seems to have i find very short 1st and second gear though...anyway yes i never thrash it untill driven a few miles.

MJ thats great picture of your spider BTW...
 

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Well, I can only refer to armoured vehicle routines.Up the Tank park, start up, fix the hand throttle for a fast warm up, drive when temp is up. I know a lot will disagree, but source of info was from the EME. and we never had a failure with those V12 Meteors, or Daimler Sixes, that I recall. Probably not so nowadays, but OMD lub. was a fairly advanced mineral oil, which as I said never gave us problems, that I recall.:):
 

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MJ: slightly off topic, but those wheels on your Spider are beautiful. What are they called and do they come in 17" size? Think I prefer them to the teledials!

Back on topic, I do a lot of short trips, I hope by doing this I don't wear the engine prematurely, I try and keep the revs down on short trips, but the downside to this means I never have access to much engine power.
 

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I like to think of those wheels as little 'spiders web' wheels but that's just my imagination...

As for the official name thats a tricky one ... hmmm I will have a look around and get back on that one...

btw cheers for the compliments :D Ain't gtvs n spiders beautiful after a wash n wax!
 

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before setting off for the first time in the day i let her warm through on the drive a good 5 - 10 mins, then keep her below 4000 revs until over 50 deg. c.

home from work same routine but there is a half mile drive at work restricted to 15mph so slowly warms through that way.
 

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I start mine once abs light gose out with foot on clutch, put on belt (faff around a bit) then drive below 3000rpm as much as poss.Max EVER with a cold engine 3.5k.Once water temp starts to climb (although thermostat is stuck open:lol: ) usually 10 min or so i'll start to open her up a little.Only when i know oil will be warm and flowing well will i give it some beans:)
 

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What is the worst you are doing to the engine by reving quite high when cold?
Get a small amount of engine oil, put it in an empty drinks bottle or glass jar and stick it in the freezer overnight. Have a look at it the next day and see how thick it has become.

When your motor has been sitting outside on a cold night, that's what it's trying to pump up to the cam-shafts. They say (sounds a bit pessimistic to me) that it can take up to 10 minutes for oil to arrive in the rocker.

Anyway, until reinforcements arrive, the oil that sits up in the head has to lube the cam lobes and journals. If you overdo the revs, the oil gets flung off and ends up going back down the engine while there's little new oil arriving to take its place.

If the cam lobes get too dry/hot the metal "picks up" off the buckets... so you get scoring and a heap of metal swarf in there, which just makes things worse.

I guess if you had very bad wear you'd have poor running, possibility of knacking the crank or small ends (swarf) and probably seizing of the cams, followed by expensive and/or terminal cam-belt derailment.

Better just to let the beast get its oil circulating in its own time.

Ralf S.
 

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Good advice and good thread I'll certainly be keeping things smooth for first 10 minutes or so of driving on cold mornings or after leaving her sit for a while.

As question on my wheels there are quite a common type on the P2 models tbh. I have seen zender call a similar 17" type 'siena' which could be what they are based on from the wheels I have fitted.

I will keep lookng for the official name but 'senna' or 'siena' does sound like it could be the one. Also I'm unsure whether you can get them in 17". If you can I would love a set too.
 
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