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Discussion Starter #1
Who's got it.
Is it any good
Can you tell its on or is it truly invisible
I have been quoted $560 for full front and full bonet is that about right

Thanks in advance:thumbs:
 

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Hello!

I've got it. It's invisible everywhere except a line about 12 inches up from the front bonnet edge. However, the line sweeps in line with the leading edge of the bonnet so it kind of looks good. Doesn't bother me. Really helps prevent chips.
Cost £450 fitted (full front inlcuding lamps, mirrors, bonnet, bumper, bit of wings).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello!

I've got it. It's invisible everywhere except a line about 12 inches up from the front bonnet edge. However, the line sweeps in line with the leading edge of the bonnet so it kind of looks good. Doesn't bother me. Really helps prevent chips.
Cost £450 fitted (full front inlcuding lamps, mirrors, bonnet, bumper, bit of wings).
Thanks for the info. I will pay them a visit:)
 

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So it only 'helps to prevent' chips, and doesn't completely stop them? Probably makes it less easy to do any re-finishing that may be required later, too?:rolleyes:
 

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Well let's put it this way; in the 7000 miles since it was fitted, there are no stone chips visible at all apart from two which I picked up at *ahem* very very high speeds on private property, officer.

Even those are much smaller than they would have been, and are the colour of compacted paint instead of glaring white undercoat.

For comparison, one of my wing mirrors has been replaced under warranty so no longer has the paint protection; that picked up a small chip down to the undercoat at normal speeds within a week :rolleyes:

I suppose I should get them to send me a wing mirror kit and fit it myself? Dunno if you need a heat gun or something.

I'd say that if you exceed 90 regularly, you'll still pick up a few chips but they will be reduced in severity.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it only 'helps to prevent' chips, and doesn't completely stop them? Probably makes it less easy to do any re-finishing that may be required later, too?:rolleyes:
Thats part of my concearn, but having checked the info it says you can treat it as you would a normal surface,if that's so then fine as chips really irrrtate me:confused:
Going for the full bonnet though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well let's put it this way; in the 7000 miles since it was fitted, there are no stone chips visible at all apart from two which I picked up at *ahem* very very high speeds on private property, officer.

Even those are much smaller than they would have been, and are the colour of compacted paint instead of glaring white undercoat.

For comparison, one of my wing mirrors has been replaced under warranty so no longer has the paint protection; that picked up a small chip down to the undercoat at normal speeds within a week :rolleyes:

I suppose I should get them to send me a wing mirror kit and fit it myself? Dunno if you need a heat gun or something.

I'd say that if you exceed 90 regularly, you'll still pick up a few chips but they will be reduced in severity.

Yep you'v convinced me cant stand those white specs. If I am going to do it then the sooner the better
 

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I am glad I put it on - but don't believe them if they say they can do the whole bonnet, they told me that and then called me up when the fitter was with the car and said they could "only do the front section" and "is that okay, we will charge less". They know this perfectly well but will pretend they can do the whole thing to secure the sale. However, there is a new film called Lumar or something, which should come in big enough lengths to do the whole bonnet, but I don't think it's available yet.
 

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£450? sure you could put your feet up on a beech for two weeks on a last minute deal and still have change for some chip paint?
 

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So what is this miracle clear coat paint guard made of? Obviously harder, tougher, than the standard 'puddin' clear coat applied at birth? Tell me they have reverted to using a two pack with hardener, and I'll feel safe, to try it.:):
 

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£450? sure you could put your feet up on a beech for two weeks on a last minute deal and still have change for some chip paint?
Chip paint?! You haven't had your 159 very long, have you? You'd be painting it up monthly unless its limited to town driving! The paint is only about 0.3 mm thick :(
 

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So what is this miracle clear coat paint guard made of? Obviously harder, tougher, than the standard 'puddin' clear coat applied at birth? Tell me they have reverted to using a two pack with hardener, and I'll feel safe, to try it.:):
It's not a clear coat, it's actually a tough plastic coating, laser cut to shape, about 4 times thicker than the original paint layer. HR Owen Lambos and Ferraris tend to get it all over the body before collection - that costs a couple of grand a go.
 

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So what is this miracle clear coat paint guard made of? Obviously harder, tougher, than the standard 'puddin' clear coat applied at birth? Tell me they have reverted to using a two pack with hardener, and I'll feel safe, to try it.:):
Its 3M paint protection film (polyurethane) and there are loads of companies that offer it. The tricky part (other than installation) is laser cutting the panels to fit.

Armourfend are another UK based one. You can also just buy the panels that you want rather than the whole kit. I got a couple of pieces for £20 that sit ahead of the rear wheel arch and fitted them myself - 159's have those bits from the factory.
 

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Which reminds me I must get them to mail me set for my replaced wing mirror. Did you fit it yourself and was it easy, gwales?
 

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Which reminds me I must get them to mail me set for my replaced wing mirror. Did you fit it yourself and was it easy, gwales?
Its one of those jobs that a bit of experience helps with - lots!

You get a bottle of clear solution and the pieces were laser etched onto quite a large piece of 3M film cut off the roll. If you removed the cut out pieces you would have loads of uncut material left. I would cut a piece to shape form this surplus and practice first.

The other issue is the ambient temperature as you need to stretch this stuff to fit and as the weather cools it can be harder to manipulate. I had the wifes hair-dryer and warmed the panel before application but too much and all your liquid will dry out to quick.

The process is to spray both the panel and the back (adhesive side) of the piece to be applied. When you put the piece approximately in place you can then slide it around the start using the rubber squeegee to extract the water and air whilst stretching the plastic if required. Your not to touch the adhesive side either. There will be some water bubbles left behind but as long as they are small they will dry out in a week. Air bubbles must be removed. You get a few minutes and then it locks in place (Less if its hot or you've gone nuts with the hairdryer).

I would say for small/simple panels have a go, but big/complex panels need an experienced hand. It is easy to wrinkle and leave air bubbles behind and that looks nasty.
 

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Clear, visionary to be able to see through? Coat, a covering? So what is this material, and... how is it applied.

Fascinating stuf fthis, as I've just bought my first ever purchase of a tablet of this so named 'Clay' stuff, to see what all the raving is about?:D Feels and looks a bit like a block of 'White Tack' to me, but less adhesive,less ductile, and as Nev said smells plasticiny'.:): This modern motor stuff, leaves me knowledge naked, and flabbergasted I admit!:D:lol:
 

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Its one of those jobs that a bit of experience helps with - lots!

You get a bottle of clear solution and the pieces were laser etched onto quite a large piece of 3M film cut off the roll. If you removed the cut out pieces you would have loads of uncut material left. I would cut a piece to shape form this surplus and practice first.

The other issue is the ambient temperature as you need to stretch this stuff to fit and as the weather cools it can be harder to manipulate. I had the wifes hair-dryer and warmed the panel before application but too much and all your liquid will dry out to quick.

The process is to spray both the panel and the back (adhesive side) of the piece to be applied. When you put the piece approximately in place you can then slide it around the start using the rubber squeegee to extract the water and air whilst stretching the plastic if required. Your not to touch the adhesive side either. There will be some water bubbles left behind but as long as they are small they will dry out in a week. Air bubbles must be removed. You get a few minutes and then it locks in place (Less if its hot or you've gone nuts with the hairdryer).

I would say for small/simple panels have a go, but big/complex panels need an experienced hand. It is easy to wrinkle and leave air bubbles behind and that looks nasty.
Excellent post, thanks!
 

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DA the chips away, spot prime, flat down, re-paint could be quite cheaper perhaps, long term?:):
Hmm I doubt it. A bumper off and respray alone would be a few hundred quid. For the £450 you also have the bonnet front, lamps, wing mirrors and part of the front wings covered.
 
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