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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to everyone. Need a wee bit of advice.
Taking tha variator off my GTV twin spark 2.0. 2000(W reg) I noticed that the pulley on the variator is slotted, does it make any difference if replaced in a slightly different position. I marked it prior to removal but on screwing it back on the cam it seems to be in a different position, the variator that is.
Any help greatfully appreciated.
 

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Hello to everyone. Need a wee bit of advice.
Taking tha variator off my GTV twin spark 2.0. 2000(W reg) I noticed that the pulley on the variator is slotted, does it make any difference if replaced in a slightly different position. I marked it prior to removal but on screwing it back on the cam it seems to be in a different position, the variator that is.
Any help greatfully appreciated.
To time the engine correctly you need CAM locks and a way to find top dead centre (you need to find top dead centre before you remove the old belt) To find TDC remove both CAM shafts first...

Follow this guide...

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-gtv-and-916-spider/290806-biffas-gtv-project.html#post4381941

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/engi...-variator-16v-t-spark-engine.html#post3201760
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your quick reply.

I have the cam locks. tdc ect.

Obviously when replacing the toothed pulley(on the variator) making sure the teeth mate up with the exhaust pulley teeth(with the belt). But do the slots on the variator pulley have to be in a certain position. ie. left, right or middle? These are the 4 bolts that hold the pulley to the variator. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you all very much. Good article on the engine biffa.
Thought I'd wacked all the valves.My heart sank. Found out that the cam belt tensioner was not set right and was swinging from tight to slack and 'tapping' out at both limits. Didn't drive it like that, thank funk!
There's some little quirks on these Alfa's. This is my first one and man! I'm enjoying it.

Thanks again fella's.
 

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It certainly did biffa, excellent article!!!
I found when I first fitted a cambelt to a TS, there is only a certain amount of leeway in the exhaust cam pulley - like the leeway you mentioned in the inlet cam pulley. This caused a problem as I tensioned the belt and the exhaust cam pulley reached the end of its travel (with the cam locks in place and pulley free to move, I thought). Unlike for the inlet pulley, you can't see that the end of the travel has been reached. This is different to some other engines where the pulleys are simply mounted on un-keyed tapers.

The net result was that the tension was insufficient and - well, you know what's coming next. While turning the engine to check, the belt jumped about ten teeth instantly. After replacing one bent valve (what a pain!), when assembling everything the second time, I engaged the cambelt one tooth off from where it was, so that during tensioning, the pulley didn't run out of travel.

So I think the answer to your first question is that it should start off in about the centre or possibly left-of-centre to allow anticlockwise movement as you tension the belt. The exhaust pulley is more difficult as the travel can't be seen, but it is about 4 teeth-worth, so perhaps count three teeth clockwise and fit the belt.

Glad you have it all sorted :)

-Alex
 

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I've just changed my wife's 156 JTS belts and the procedure is far more detailed than the GTV's procedure. A procedure I will adopt next time I do my TS.

The procedure in summary :

Turn both pulleys fully clockwise ( looking at them ).
Fit the belt to the crank, take it round the fixed idler pulley and on to the exhaust cam pulley. On the JTS I had to turn it half a tooth back anti-clockwise.
Then on to the inlet pulley ( ensuring it is still as far as possible turned fully clockwise.
Fit belt to the adjuster and then round the water pump.

At this stage there is no ( or at least very little ) slack on the non adjuster side.

After checking the dial gauge for TDC, set the tensioner which will rotate the cam pulleys anti-clockwise a fraction but take up most of the slack on the adjuster side. Again, check the dial gauge in case the crank has moved.
It then goes into a check procedure ( turning the crank twice etc.

By turning the cam pulleys fully clockwise then feeding the belt in reverse it was perfect first time and there was plenty of adjustment on the pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The way I managed was to fit the belt to the exhaust pulley first as well.
While a mate held the belt up on the inlet side to stop it slipping around the crank.
We then swapped over, he held the belt on the exhaust while I fitted the inlet side pushing the little pointer on the adjuster fully upwards. Then setting the adjuster. A bit awkward but it worked.
 
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