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Discussion Starter #1
Hi again fellows !
I have another question, about a topic that is disturbing me since I got the new 33!

The car revs just fine. From 1000rpm-3000rpm is perfect, than from 3000 rpm-up I hear the valves clicking and this is really disturbing me. I thought that by servicing the car the clicking would disappear. The clicking is typical valve clicking under load but strong enough to hear inside the cabin. This doesn't happen if I push the gas pedal gently!!!

Things that I have changed :

- spark plugs to iridium NGK spark plugs
- air filter to KN air filter for original air box
- Oil??? to Bardhal 10w40 full synthetic (this time I didn't use Selenia)
-oil filter
-ECU to ECU with chip (but even with the factory ECU the clicking was still there)
-Lambda sensor
-Thermostat and coolant
-Added some extra ground wires around the engine
-Changed exhaust from factory to customized with no cat.



Things to be done:

-waiting for fuel filter (could this be causing the clicking?)
-I think to try the fuel injectors from my crashed 33 as they were cleaned with ultrasound and in perfect condition
-cam belts
-

What do you guys think? What is wrong with my engine? The petrol is not very good quality here but would be the same when I had the other 33.
Since I got the new car I never reved the engine more than 4000rpm because of that noise.

Maybe is good to take her for a drive in the highway and to push her a bit hard?

need advice

Cheers,
Elvis
 

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Hi Elvis - there's mixed opinions about engine oil, but 10W40 full synthetic might be a bit thin. There again, I've used 10W40 semi-synthetic in my engine and the valves weren't too noisy.

What are your valve clearances like? If its not a hydraulic cam, there are shims in the top of each tappet bucket which set the clearance. They have been known to crack. I suppose another possiblity may be a broken valve spring. The boxer uses double valve springs on each valve - superb performance engineering for its time. One might be broken.

If its not the valvegear it might be a blowing head gasket (which can blow to air and cause a sharp tapping sound, particularly under load), or a cracked exhaust manifold near the cylinder head. I've experienced all of these faults, although not all on the same car (and none of the above on the Green Machine... so far).

Lauren
 

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Try retarding the ignition by 5 degrees. It may be a bad batch of petrol causing pinking.
An Imola has hydraulic tappets and any fault with these is likely to be more obvious at tickover than higher revs.
Has your new car been 'performance tuned' by a previous owner? It may have had the compression raised beyond the capability of your local fuel quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Try retarding the ignition by 5 degrees. It may be a bad batch of petrol causing pinking.
An Imola has hydraulic tappets and any fault with these is likely to be more obvious at tickover than higher revs.
Has your new car been 'performance tuned' by a previous owner? It may have had the compression raised beyond the capability of your local fuel quality.
All the services were made in Italy before the car came in here, I can think only about bad fuel quality at the moment!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi again,

just changed the injectors and put the ones from my crashed one (cleaned with ultrasound), put some 100 octane petrol and went for a drive. The clicking, now is like 50% less audible, but it still exists:rant::(
I'm thinking, thinking, thinking every night to find what is wrong with it.

this morning a whistling noise coming from the engine bay, when I turned the ignition key on, made me think about the fuel pressure valves
The whistling looks like is coming from one of the fuel pressure valves, then most probably one of them might be loosing pressure. Could this be causing the clicking noise in the valves after 3000 rpm and the feeling I have that the new car is a lot slower than my old one???????????? I can't measure them, how can I verify that, even inside me I know is one of the pressure valves:(;)
I think is worth to try since I have the ones from my crashed 33 that was fast as hell.

are they difficult to be changed or just straight forward?

Please, I need opinions and advices, need to be sure if that might be the problem in my new car?!?!?!?!?:rolleyes:

Thanks
Elvis
 

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It wouldn't be the distributor by any chance would it, one of mine is suffering from a tapping noise under revs. If you get a short piece of garden hose or something similar it helps to pinpoint the source of the noise, works really well although you do look a bit mad poking around the engine bay with a hosepipe stuck in your ear!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you get a short piece of garden hose or something similar it helps to pinpoint the source of the noise, works really well although you do look a bit mad poking around the engine bay with a hosepipe stuck in your ear!!
:lol::cheese::cheese::cheese:
mine doesn't has a distributor... but the pipe method is really interesting thought:cheese:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It was one of the fuel pressure regulation valves (at least that's how we call them here), the incoming valve, that flows the petrol in the injector's pipe lines and injectors, must have been damaged as I supposed:D and was causing lack of petrol @ 2500 rpm and up and causing valve clicking and loos of power....

Got out the damaged valve and installed the one from my crashed 33 and wow:eek:, the power is back, the clicking is gone and with some 100 octane petrol the car drives just like a dream:D:thumbs:

I'm very happy now, this is how a 33 should run. In a traffic light yesterday, green light turned on, I put the 1st and 2nd gear and in few seconds the speedo was reading 85km/h

thanks to everyone,
Cheers,
Elvis
 

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Good News - glad it is now sorted :)
- and if you don't like the Hose stethoscope, you can use a long screwdriver - but make sure that it is the handle end in your ear! :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hi fellows,

even my car's performance is improved a lot from what it was when I first got it, I still can hear valve clicking under load around 3000 rpm, but now only when the engine is warm and after I'm stuck in traffic??? I still can hear a kind of whistling from the fuel pressure regulation valves when I turn the ignition on, but this time the whistle is coming from the outgoing valve. Maybe is loosing pressure and at high revs is letting the fuel to pass through it and causing lack of petrol??? this is just an idea!!!

This engine of the new car is to f......g noisy and lazy compared to the old one...:mad:

cheers,
Elvis
 

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