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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys. Any help would be appreciated.

I had a problem a month ago where the clutch pedal was getting lower each time I drove the car, I parked it up after nursing it home in the garage.
Went back few days later, pedal on the floor ! I replaced the slave cylinder, which was a mission as it would not come out the bracket!
Anyway went to bleed it, would not bleed, so decided that the master cylinder must be naff, so I rebuilt the master in situ, as at the moment the car is stuck in the garage.
Ive now replaced both cylinders and am unable to bleed the system, Ive tried one man bleed system which pulls the fluid through, I've also filled the slave with fluid, I've tried the one way valve bleeder, non have worked and the most I have achieved is a couple of inches of movement with slight resistance!

Really lost now, Ive been thinking it maybe the feed pipe to the master is block?
 

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The runoff from brake fluid reservoir to clutch fluid reservoir is a bit higher than the minimum mark on the
brake fluid reservoir so if you do not keep the fluid level near the maximum mark (frequent top up's) you
can easy empty clutch fluid reservoir with a few strokes on clutch pedal when you bleed the system and
start to pump air into the system instead of the brake fluid.

Maybe this is your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for replies, problem is I don't see the brake fluid level actually going down at all ! when i first left the clutch pedal sitting on the floor and toped it up I saw a few air bubbles appear, since, I don't see the level dramatically changing!

Whats the best method of bleeding?

Also on my RHD version, does anyone know which of the pipes from the reservoir is the one for the clutch? is it the one furthers away from the pedals?
 

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The problem is you will not see that the brake fluid level goes down when you bleed the clutch, just keep the brake fluid reservoir to maximum level and everything should be fine, clutch fluid reservoir is 'hidden' behind the brake reservoir so you will not see any major change in fluid level when you bleed the clutch .
 

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I use a Gunsons Eezibleed - all the way from England - at times like that. It works by using tyre air pressure to force the fluid through from the reservoir. Can sometimes end in an almighty mess when the cap blows off, so check for a good fit/no air leaks before introducing the fluid to the system.

The other way I discovered in a pinch - no pressure-bleeder required - was to use the slave cylinder to draw fluid through. On the slave cylinder, open the nipple, push the piston in, close the nipple, pull the slave cylinder piston out (or let it spring out, as I recall), repeat until enough fluid is drawn through for the bleeding to proceed.

I like that you rebuilt the master cylinder in situ - I have done that before - working in the footwell is horrible but easier than trying to get the master cylinder out - never worked out how to do that!

-Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well tried again, seemed to have bled it using a syringe and pushing the fluid through from the slave, but then i put the air intake back together, then by the time I had got back in the car, the pedal had gone soft at the top end of the movement.
Im now thinking that either the slave cylinder I have fitted is faulty or the master is scored internally and actually needs replacing!
I think its time to send it to a specialist!
 
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