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Quite possible, even when I got this all sorted out there was still a slight difference between both sides by about 1 degree .. they had both pulled in nice but not equal...
you can make fine adjustments using the lengthening slots on ball joint method, but you will also need to jam some metal in the hole to pack it out and stop potential slippage. It is trial and error but does work. Try running laser from centre of sub frame forward and see if it hits the centre point at the front of vehicle... I found on my 54 jts it was 5mm out, like the whole car was built 5mm off centre..! so I put spacers on one side to level up. So offside 10mm spacers nearside 15mm spacers....made a difference to handling along with other chassis tweeks. That jts has phenomenal handling now really sticks to the road and doesn't give any sign of breaking grip in them tight bends. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I've read that a correctly sized ball bearing can be used for packing the slot out ... I'll give the laser thing some thought though, good idea that, just need to make sure the laser is in a straight line I guess. What sort of jig do you use to ensure it's lined up... i'm trying to visualise it in my mind ... cheers
 

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I've read that a correctly sized ball bearing can be used for packing the slot out ... I'll give the laser thing some thought though, good idea that, just need to make sure the laser is in a straight line I guess. What sort of jig do you use to ensure it's lined up... i'm trying to visualise it in my mind ... cheers
I used a laser device and a set square with string off at right angles to rear subframe cross beam. Centre of subframe was measured and that is the point from which I fired the laser and the string. Used mirrors check laser was straight. The ball bearing could work providing it sits in the slot however I would prefer something that would fit more snug in there and maybe a spot of weld too. As a matter of interest how did you align your wheels? Was it by machine or did you do it manually?
 

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Also make sure right rear springs and all mounted correctly and fitted properly with the rubbers all fitted properly. The 916 rear suspension is a bit of a diva when it comes to fixing it, but there is a sweet spot and it makes you work to find it. I set up a p3 3.2 manually, it took forever. But it was in the sweet spot..... Took it for 4 wheel alignment on hunter machine and it was way off, too much negative camber on front and rear, toeing out slightly on front but its handling was amazing. It is set right by computer now but it has lost something, it is not in the sweet spot as it was...why this could be? ?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The best it ever was, was by an Alfa specialist using a light and mirrors machine, not sure which one but think it was a hofmann, every subsequent computer 4 wheel alignment that has been done after that a reputable garages has been a bit of mess, never been right from a driving perspective regardless of what the report says.. The GTV is currently moth balled at the specialist since I had to get a new model for day to day work etc... but the rear toe adjusters are seized up as well... took it to a so called 4 alignment shop and they said it was fine (and didn't tell me and charged me £70)... a week after had a tyre fitted at kwikfit and to their credit they came in the reception and said we can't do the alignment (and won't charge) you as the rear toes are seized... they actually showed me it was seized so I have lost faith in so called expert garages with all the computers unless you're standing there next to them watching..
 

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The best it ever was, was by an Alfa specialist using a light and mirrors machine, not sure which one but think it was a hofmann, every subsequent computer 4 wheel alignment that has been done after that a reputable garages has been a bit of mess, never been right from a driving perspective regardless of what the report says.. The GTV is currently moth balled at the specialist since I had to get a new model for day to day work etc... but the rear toe adjusters are seized up as well... took it to a so called 4 alignment shop and they said it was fine (and didn't tell me and charged me £70)... a week after had a tyre fitted at kwikfit and to their credit they came in the reception and said we can't do the alignment (and won't charge) you as the rear toes are seized... they actually showed me it was seized so I have lost faith in so called expert garages with all the computers unless you're standing there next to them watching..
Yes they gave me a read out which shows how it is set against the hunter spec, but is the hunter spec direct form the alfa oem spec?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The last time I went I took the correct specs on a bit of paper, the specs on the kwikfit machine didn't match up and although they didn't charge me because the rear toes were seized I had to query the first attempt as there were several versions of preset data to choose from... I could see the data on a screen in the reception and had to tell them mine was a 3.0 V6 variant... I bet they thought.. we got a right one here blah blah.... I think that's half the trouble, from what I've read on this forum there's a bunch of settings people agree work best and are documented in the manual but there are several versions loaded into these computers ... it's a bit difficult arguing with these technicians as it's their job but I showed them the specs which are on this forum and there was that sort of scratch your head look from them and I think the guy commented that setup like that the fronts will wear out quick.. however, I trust the collective experience of the owners on this site to have the correct data..
 

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I could do with getting mine checked, after fitting new poly bushes & ball joints it seems to have too much positive camber. I may have to put the 2.0 type in :unsure:
 

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Yes it is a bit unsatisfying when not sure if set correctly as then not sure if in sweet spot. The alfa manual does say toe out on front and toe in on back and gives castor and camber angles too, they are different for 2ltr 3.0 and 3.2. If you study the subject of wheel alignment these setting do have an impact on the way the vehicle will behave. Some setting control understeer better, some control cornering agility and other setting control tyre wear which is the usual setting for usual cars. My concern is that the usual setting are the ones used by 4 wheel alignment machines, which is fine as most people are unhappy about unequal or excessive tyre wear. The alfa oem settings will definitely cause excessive wear on inside edges due to the negative camber on rear and the toe out on front. However, my research is leading me to the conclusion that the oem settings are designed to reduce understeer and to aid the rear wheel steering system by keeping maximum tyre width in contact with the road to facilitate rear wheel steering. I am no expert at this subject but that is my thought at the moment.....it is interesting to compare usual alignment for road use with setting for track use... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That defo shouldn't be happening.. did you take the arms off and replace the bushes? they weren't the powerflex ones were they? I had an issue with them.. they were too tight in the subframe and was causing the suspension to bind..
 

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That defo shouldn't be happening.. did you take the arms off and replace the bushes? they weren't the powerflex ones were they? I had an issue with them.. they were too tight in the subframe and was causing the suspension to bind..
Wow, that would cause camber issues for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
In my case they were so tight that when the rear compressed it wouldn't return back so I was getting this constant turbulence bouncing at the rear.. It was the black powerflex jobs.. I did contact them but never got a response from their tech dept.. We noticed it when I went to get the top arms shod with these out.. we had to use 4ft long bar to shift them out the subframe.. once i put a new set of top arms with original bushes back in the rear end stop bouncing and the ride height went back to normal (and the camber to some degree)..
 

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In my case they were so tight that when the rear compressed it wouldn't return back so I was getting this constant turbulence bouncing at the rear.. It was the black powerflex jobs.. I did contact them but never got a response from their tech dept.. We noticed it when I went to get the top arms shod with these out.. we had to use 4ft long bar to shift them out the subframe.. once i put a new set of top arms with original bushes back in the rear end stop bouncing and the ride height went back to normal (and the camber to some degree)..
Interesting. I have used these powerflex bushes and I agree very tight but not caused any binding... This does demonstrate that each 916 is slightly different and responds differently. My 05 3.2engine is really aggressive but cant get the chassis in sweet spoy, my red 3.2 04 gtv the chassis and handling is sensational but the engine not as aggressive as the black 05 3.2. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Interesting. I have used these powerflex bushes and I agree very tight but not caused any binding... This does demonstrate that each 916 is slightly different and responds differently. My 05 3.2engine is really aggressive but cant get the chassis in sweet spoy, my red 3.2 04 gtv the chassis and handling is sensational but the engine not as aggressive as the black 05 3.2. ?
:) yeah agreed, I've had the P2 from new and have tried others, and they're all different.. In your case I'd be lying in bed thinking shall I swap the engines and get the ultimate GTV experience :)
 

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My experience of fitting V6 upper wishbones with powerflex bushes was that the car was unbelievably unforgiving on the road, the slighest bump rattled through the car. After months of messing about and head scratching I finally backed off the torque figures (that I used from the workshop manual) for the upper wishbones attachment to the sub frame. Instant success, the car drove completely different. It felt again like the car was sat on the springs, and the springs & shocks were actually working together. The car is on eibachs with Koni adjustables and 17" wheels, it will always be firmer than others but I'm very happy with it now.
One on 4 wheel alignment, I watched a reputable Alfa specialist put my car on a 2 post lift, loosen the suspension bolts and then drive it onto the 4 post lift for the alignment readings. The theory being that adjustments would then be easier for them, the problem with this is that when the car is lowered from the 2 post lift - the suspension has then not settled, the same as it wouldn't if you lower the car on the drive, it was sitting up at the rear which changed all the camber, at this point he should have driven it around the block for it to settle. Needless to say I advised the technician, and after a quick drive the second set of readings were completely different. One to watch that's all.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Good advice Matt,,, I've also heard like so many other things that the final torque down on the suspension is best done with the car sitting at rest with the springs under load.. something to do with the bushes seating correctly.. ahhh all this talk of GTVs and I find myself wanting to drive down to the Specialist who's looking after mine and take her out for a run.. I really do miss her even with all the agg that comes with owning one...
 

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Good advice Matt,,, I've also heard like so many other things that the final torque down on the suspension is best done with the car sitting at rest with the springs under load.. something to do with the bushes seating correctly.. ahhh all this talk of GTVs and I find myself wanting to drive down to the Specialist who's looking after mine and take her out for a run.. I really do miss her even with all the agg that comes with owning one...
Of course it all changes as soon as driver gets in the seat... So should be done with half tank of fuel and driver sat in seat? They would do that for track racing..... What I think I will do is take a gtv to 4 wheel alignment and give them a print out of the alfa oem spec sheet and ask for them to use those specs...
 
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