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I seem to remember a member of the forum " Alex " mentioning that the fuelling is very different between having and not having a cam sensor.
I will see if I can find his post.
It's the only thing I can think of
the ignition is supposed to be wasted spark so that only needs a 360 deg signal which can be had from the crankshaft position.
The camshaft is the only source of a 720 deg signal as required by the sequential injection..
old fashioned mechanical fuel injection distributors were driven by the cam shaft..
unless when the ecu sees a duff sensor it switches into a fire every injector mode.. or at least two ??
and then there would be a lot of fuel hanging around in the inlet manifold waiting for the valve to open .. very strange..
 

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does that mean .. if the cam sensor fails
1-4 and 3-2 inject simultaneously??
I think that is not a 100% correct translation to english, but I think that's what it means only until engine starts. although, knocking sensor is ignored, so a "bit" dangerous driving this way...
 
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Discussion Starter #27
By the water pump mate. If I get the chance I'll post a picture.
Ok Mitch there is a knack to getting the wire behind the water pump my personal method is this is to put a split about 2 inches long in the heat protective shielding at the connector end.
This enables you to slide the shielding over the plug and use the main wire which is significantly smaller and is more oblong than round in section to hook around the pump lip. Now using the section of cable at the sensor end feed it behind the pump.
You then simply just push the sheathing down the main cable until it reaches the sensor backing plate.
By the way this isn't detrimental to my method of sensor change if you were to do it the old fashioned way of pulleys off etc you would still have this issue unless you were fitting a new water pump where you could put the sensor cable in place first and fit the pump over it.
The small black cam cover backing plate behind the inlet cam is self explanatory as in regards routing/ fitting of cable.
Regards
 

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I think that is not a 100% correct translation to english, but I think that's what it means only until engine starts. although, knocking sensor is ignored, so a "bit" dangerous driving this way...
Agreed.. best to change cam sensor if it's gone bad .. don't want melted pistons.. :)
 

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Passed 2 MOT's so no issue with emmissions, I average about 33 to the gallon so not excessive on fuel either.

I shall have another go at threading the cable as you suggest. Thanks again.
 

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I seem to remember a member of the forum " Alex " mentioning that the fuelling is very different between having and not having a cam sensor.
I will see if I can find his post.
That might have been me :)
Without a cam sensor, the system reverts to continuous injection, firing all four injectors together as a group. The injector duration is less than it would normally be, so the engine performance is little affected, but there will be some condensed fuel hanging around in the intake ports (particularly if the engine isn't running at full temperature).

-Alex
 
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Discussion Starter #32
That might have been me :)
Without a cam sensor, the system reverts to continuous injection, firing all four injectors together as a group. The injector duration is less than it would normally be, so the engine performance is little affected, but there will be some condensed fuel hanging around in the intake ports (particularly if the engine isn't running at full temperature).

-Alex
Thanks Alex :thumbs:
 

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Ok Mitch there is a knack to getting the wire behind the water pump my personal method is this is to put a split about 2 inches long in the heat protective shielding at the connector end.
This enables you to slide the shielding over the plug and use the main wire which is significantly smaller and is more oblong than round in section to hook around the pump lip. Now using the section of cable at the sensor end feed it behind the pump.
You then simply just push the sheathing down the main cable until it reaches the sensor backing plate.
By the way this isn't detrimental to my method of sensor change if you were to do it the old fashioned way of pulleys off etc you would still have this issue unless you were fitting a new water pump where you could put the sensor cable in place first and fit the pump over it.
The small black cam cover backing plate behind the inlet cam is self explanatory as in regards routing/ fitting of cable.
Regards
I know it's been a while since this thread was active but...

Even assuming one can get the cable behind the water pump, I can't see how it's possible to squeeze the connector behind the timing belt and inlet cam pulley in order to get it to the back of the head.

Am I missing something?
 
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