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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you so much Botasky! The subframe long bolts are now in on both sides after some alignment difficulties! Could you tell me if it is safe to use the subframe as a jacking point?
 

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I don't usually jack up the car from the subframe, I found it easier to jack up at the side sill then put the jack stand at the factory jacking point(the nub with a hole behind the rear subframe mount), but that being said, it should be ok to jack up the car at the subframe, just don't use the front corners pass the side mount with long bolt.
 

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the factory jacking point(the nub with a hole behind the rear subframe mount)
They may not actually be jacking points but alignment points when being assembled .. and they corrode so they can collapse! The correct axle stand point is actually the jacking point on the sill .. the fun is how to jack it up and put the axle stand there!
 

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Oh good to know, If they're alignment points I'm guessing at the factory they would lift the car at that point too, it would not make sense to only use those point as a locator, plus they're made from pretty thick metal. We don't get snow where I live, so there's no salt on the road, rust and corrosion is not an issue here, but thanks again for the info, I'll be looking out for rust in those area.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank you all for the replies that are very useful. I will post on my progress as soon as I recover from my 147 brake failure drama!
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well, the new heavy-duty jack and taller axle stands arrived and the supplier advised that I should not be working underneath the 156 Sportpack whilst it sits on four axle stands. So the only wheels I had were some aftermarket non-alfa that I tried to fit to the rear and quickly found that not all of the supplied wheel-bolts would screw-in? Very strange as they did fit onto our 156 Lusso? The original standard Alfa wheelbolts did fit perfectly and do seem to hold the wheel into place on the hub but why would the wheel-supplier provide "wobblies"?

Anyhow, with wheels on the rear and with telephone support from the supplier I used the new jack to raise the car but found that the increase in height of a few inches was at the cost of raising the rear (same side as jack) off the ground! I am worried now that any attempt to apply the new taller axle-stand on the other side will lead to both rear wheels suspended off the ground!?
 

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If the axle stands are good and you put them in the correct position you'll be fine working under the car. I think having a level car on level ground is more important than worrying about how many wheels are off the ground. Put the wheels under the car for extra safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks Botasky. Do you mean to use 4 axle stands? If so, should I endeavour to have the axle stands at exactly the same height?
 

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Yes, 4 axle stands is the way to go, all set to exact same hight, obviously, when you are jacking up the car you have to do it 1 corner at a time, but when the car is at the proper hight it should be level.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
With the combination of axle stands that I have I don't think that it will be easy to get precisely the same height. Would it matter if there is a small difference in height? Also, I was warned by an engineer yesterday (not the supplier) to avoid using small blocks of wood between lifting locations and the axle stands as the wood "could slip". So far, for the past 18 months I have used the small wooden blocks without problem between the axle stands and lifting points.
 

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If the difference is less than a centimetre you should be alright, but I still recommend getting 4 good matching axle stands. DON'T USE THE WOOD!!! if it didn't slip it will split, that's from my 1st hand experience, I once put a block of wood on the jack and lift the car up at the sill, the wood split in half then the jack slip and the whole car came crashing down.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I'm pretty sure that the garage floor is not very flat as the previously existing axle stand set-up required an additional piece of wood on one side measuring at least 2 cm with axle stand pins in the same hole on both sides. I think that I will have to compromise and accept that the taller stands will only provide around 2 inches increase in height after all!

I have received back from the tool- maker shop my new right-side engine mounting that has been fitted with an aluminium cover. Before fitting it, should I treat it with something to avoid corrosion issues? Also, I have not yet fitted the rear mounting because I understand that the right mounting should go on first? The worn right-side mounting is currently supporting the engine with a new one on the gearbox side and also the top stabilizer is fitted.
 

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If the floor is not flat, there's no way around it, try to get the front as level as possible with the same hight of the axle stands since the weight bias is on the front because of the engine and gearbox.

Is the cover for stopping water getting in the mount? Make sure that the cover does not interfere with the frame rail, make sure that the mount can be mount flush against the body of the car. If you are worried about the corrosion, a little bit of anti-seize should help.

I don't know if the order of installation of front and rear engine mount matter, but it seems to me that doing the front first is easier, the rear just need to go in after the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thank you Botasky. It took me several hours today to find the way to install the new taller axle stand on the left side....? The jack kept on creeping forward and running into the axle-stand..... I tried using the same method as I had with the right-side but for some perplexing reason it was not the same? Eventually, I discovered a combination of three blocks of wood of various sizes stacked asymmetrically beneath a rubber puck that fits into the sill wedge to give the jack a little more height and chose an odd angle for the jack - it seems to have worked at the second attempt after the first that almost resulted in disaster! The front axle-stands are now at the same height and I have improved clearance of a little more than 3 inches. Both rear tyres have a small contact patch so I am tempted to work in this environment to finish the sub-frame and engine-mountings installation. I will raise the rear (with trepidation) when I install the exhaust system.
I don't know if water can find its way into the rubber mount with the alloy cover fitted but it must be better than leaving the rubber exposed. The Tool-maker could not remove the cover from the original mounting. The new cover he made does compress against the rubber and should be flush with the chassis leg. Should I use a thread-locker sealant on the long-engine mounting bolt and the short mounting screws?
 

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The short engine bolts definitely need a thread-locker, the long bolts I'm not sure(when I took the engine out I left the mount attached to the engine), I think there's no downside to use a thread-locker on both short and long bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thank you Botasky. I'm clear on how to proceed now but there are two issues that I need to resolve before I could continue with installation of the cylinder head:
One of the alternator bolts cannot be tightened because certainly something surely connects to it and I do not remember what it is! I don't have any other parts for the engine. Is it something that is attached from the cylinder head?
There is an exhaust bracket that I believe is fitted onto the rear engine mounting and also connects to the sub-frame?
 

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There's a bracket that goes over the power steering pump, the top bolt of the alternator bolt to that bracket. the bottom bolt goes through the bracket that held the immediate shaft, there's a nut at the other end.


And here's the exhaust bracket that attaches to the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thanks Botasky that is most greatly appreciated but I am unable to open the photos?
 
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