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Discussion Starter #1
My 166 has developed a weird fault.

On low-speed right hand turns, the traction control will sometimes cut in, applying the brake on the front left wheel. When this happens, the traction control light on the dash flashes.

It only ever happens on right hand turns, and only affects the left front wheel.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

If so, what is likely to be the cause? ABS sensor fault - or something else?

If so, how best to diagnose?

The ABS sensor cabling on the front left wheel looks OK, BTW.
 

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Hi. My 2005 166 3.0 Sportronic was doing that a lot. The fault was cured when the 4 odd (mainly Chinese) tyres were replaced by a matching set of Pirellis. It might be worth looking at your tyres. While you're there just check you don't have any cracked coil springs as this can upset the weight balance on each corner. Faulty ABS sensor would usually show a warning light.
 

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Ensure that alignment is correct.
Make a steering calibration with a diagnostic adapter. It's in the abs control unit if I remember correctly.

Check the rear bushes, mine started doing exactly the same few months ago, the handling in corners was also weak and imprecise.
Lastly, the rear bushing in the wheel hub seemed to be the culprit.
Replaced them 2 weeks ago and didn't happen again!
Also check the alignment arms, they could have the bushes gone too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys - tyres are all decent (Michelins all round).

From what you're saying, worn rear suspension might be the cause - ie, the traction control system is probably working OK but is responding to strange loads caused by the suspension being out of normal limits?

Could be (it's an old car, after all)! I haven't noticed any wayward behaviour - but perhaps that's an excuse to take it out and drive it hard for a few miles...
 

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This ones were the caused of the problems on mine, although over time I've replaced everything.
In special, weird handling, like the rear shaking when running over bumps, or the direction suddenly changing when the road was slightly inclined to the left or right, etc.



I don't recommend polyurethane bushes by any means. Neither if paying with other's money! 2 years of headaches caused by them.

1 - TEDGUM 00027989
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/tedgum/8508841

2 - Fortune Line FZ90892
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/fortune-line/7924227

3 - TRW JBU167
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2196515
 

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I have no knowledge of the 166 traction control system, so I could be way off the mark here, but most of them respond to a difference in road speed between one of the driving wheels and the non-driven wheels. If the difference is excessive, they'll shut the throttle (or even gently apply the brake on the side that's spinning). Have you got a wheelbearing out, so that the ABS ring is touching the sensor? Also, on some cars, the ABS rings on the CV joint are encased in plastic, but eventually rust and swell, making the plastic touch the end of the sensor.

If it's Electronic Stability Control rather than traction control that's intervening, it could be the steering angle sensor is out. They need to know which way the wheel is turned, in relation to which way the car is going. If there's too big a mismatch, the system assumes the car is sliding and the ESC will intervene. Typically, this happens when the car is going straight ahead but the wheel isn't pointing straight ahead because the tracking at one end or the other is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This ones were the caused of the problems on mine, although over time I've replaced everything.
In special, weird handling, like the rear shaking when running over bumps, or the direction suddenly changing when the road was slightly inclined to the left or right, etc.



I don't recommend polyurethane bushes by any means. Neither if paying with other's money! 2 years of headaches caused by them.

1 - TEDGUM 00027989
Sleeve, control arm mounting TEDGUM 00027989 — Buy now!

2 - Fortune Line FZ90892
Sleeve, control arm mounting FORTUNE LINE FZ90892 — Buy now!

3 - TRW JBU167
Control Arm- / Trailing Arm Bush TRW JBU167 — Buy now!

I'm going to have a crack at replacing these bushes. I'm assuming you removed the lower arm first to replace the front and rear bushes - but did you need to remove the entire hub upright in order to remove bush 3 in your diagram above - or were you able to remove the bush with the hub upright in situ once the lower arm was out of the way?

And what tools did you need to press the bushes out?
 

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I'm going to have a crack at replacing these bushes. I'm assuming you removed the lower arm first to replace the front and rear bushes - but did you need to remove the entire hub upright in order to remove bush 3 in your diagram above - or were you able to remove the bush with the hub upright in situ once the lower arm was out of the way?

And what tools did you need to press the bushes out?
Well, wasn't easy, but did it in-place.
Checkout my thread:

 

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..if you suspect the ABS sensors be careful, because the brake bias is controlled by the same system.
 

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In my 147 I went though the simple things first but it turned out to be the abs control unit. The symptom was, when hooking around left handers one of the front brakes would apply unexpectedly.
 

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Hi, I had installed standard Strongflex bushes few years ago.
Replaced every suspension arm, also did the subframe and put new shock absorbers.
But the rear behaviour got worse, very weird and dangerous, specially when running over potholes at high speed, it shaked like if you did a hard turn. But on the rear!
When the workshop applied some force with a breaking bar, the poly bushes clearly warped and deformed like jelly.
With normal bushes it ran well again.

About the traction control, it was the carrier bushing in the wheel hub. The VDC system kicked in without any agressive driving, but not randomly, always on the same part of the road.
The bushing was totally gone, allowing a lot of play.
 

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On the rear almost perfect, I got it to -0.5° Camber at the first try.
It's easy. The rear subframe has adjustable points where the "L" arms are bolted.
It's trial and error however, and you have to lower the subframe evertime.
On the front, I didn't yet, I don't know how to do it, so it would be great if somebody drops some light here.
Regards
932836
 

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Did you move it as far you could inwards or not? did you put them both symmetrically in order to get the same camber on each side or does it differ on each side?

Did you expand the holes on the bottom of the brackets?
 
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