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Discussion Starter #1
On my 1979 Spider Veloce, I recently instituted the recommended fix to my hazard switch which had gone wonky and drained my battery (with the cover on the car, I did not notice that the flashers were on for a week). I inserted the tiny plastic shim, which fixed the switch and all seemed to be ok. I was pretty careful in documenting how the wires were attached to the switch when I removed it, so I am pretty sure I rewired correctly. I cannot guarantee that all of the lights were working after fixing the hazard switch, but I am pretty sure that I tested everything.

Now, a month later, I noticed that my marker and rear lights were out. I replaced fuse 5, and when I tested it, it immediately started smoking. So either I rewired the hazard switch incorrectly, or have an unrelated short somewhere.

It has been raining a lot here on the Cape recently, what with all of the tropical storms, and I did notice some moisture in the trunk, so am letting it air out.

So I have 2 questions:

1) Can anyone provide me with the correct wiring for the hazard switch.

2) What is the best way to track down a short in the fuse 5 circuit?

Thanks in advance.
 

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With fuse 5 out, do the hazards work?
If not, disconnect the hazard switch and put in a new fuse (of the correct or slightly lower rating, never go higher) and see if it blows, if not then suspect the switch, if it does blow then it is somewhere else....obviously.

Have you done anything else to the car recently? New radio or something like that?

Try that and post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Crikey, I'll check the hazards tomorrow. The only work done since the hazard switch was a new muffler, but that seems unlikely to have created a short.

By the way, I cannot recall if the tail lights are supposed to flash when the hazards are on, or do only the turn signals flash?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So the hazards work just fine with fuse 5 removed, and therefore I think I can eliminate the hazard switch as the problem. This does not however remove the fact of removing and replacing the center console as a potential cause of the short, which I think is kinda likely. I had been hoping to not remove and replace this again, as it is a tricky business on this 32-year old sun-damaged (cheap plastic) part, but unless I can track down the short on the individual marker-tail light circuits, will be unavoidable.
 

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How are you getting on with this?
If you can access the back of the fuse box, disconnect the wires leading from fuse 5 and re connect them one by one (unless there is only one wire), you will then see which wire the short is on, follow that wire to see where it goes, or see what is not working, if you can follow the wire through you can split the circuit to get you closer to where the short is.....

So has the dash been removed and replaced and this short occured just after that?
 

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On my 1970 Spider S2 fuses 4 and 5 are both for the parking light, RH front and LH rear and LH front and RH left. This was and is very commun, I remember old Minors and other car of that time being connected so.
If only fuse 5 has broken connection the two other p-light should be OK. If they aren't, something other is amiss.
Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Solved ( and now the radio works too!)

So I went out and bought a test lamp for $2.99 and spent the day diagnosing the problem. Since the problem occurred only after I had removed and replaced the console to fix the hazard switch, I removed the console again, and voila the lights on fuse 5 now worked, so clearly the short was under the console cover. I found 6 wires that were not connected, but none of those tested hot, so I taped them off and bundled them together. There was a 7th wire that had clearly become disconnected from a terminal block, and I reconnected that one. The 6 wires that I taped off were probably left over from when the '79 console cover was replaced with a '79-1/2 cover from a parts car. I replaced the console cover and all of the lights still worked.

So, heady with my electrical success on fuse 5, I decided to diagnose the radio. About 2 years ago, I removed fuse 4, as the battery kept dying if I stored the car for more than a week, and as a result I had no radio/cd player. The radio has a removable faceplate, and there is an amplifier under the rear deck. I had the deck cover off anyway, as water collects under there due to my leaky convertible roof, and a tiny hole in the plastic rear window. I suspected that the water had affected the amp, so I set about testing it. I put fuse 4 back in, and with the key out of the ignition, the power terminal on the amp was hot, but oddly, so was the ground. Now the radio should have power without the key, as there a is a little LED that blinks on the dash when the removable faceplate is off, but it made no sense that the ground wire should ever be hot. With fuse 4 in, the radio and power antenna worked, but there was no sound from the speakers. In reading the amp user manual online, it mentioned that the amp will shut off if it senses an electrical problem. I disconnected the ground wire, which was connected under the terminal block on the amp, where I couldn't see it without a dentist's mirror, and reconnected it above the terminal block. Now I have power to the speakers, and will try leaving fuse 4 in and hope that the battery doesn't drain. A car battery should be able to power a single, blinking LED for at least a month or 2, right?

Thanks to all who offered their help. :)
 

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The original problem with the Audio set up was almost certainly a disconnected/poor Earth to the Amp but that's now academic as you have sorted it. :thumbs:

The Battery should have no trouble keeping things going but......

Why not invest a few Bucks in one of the Battery Disconnect Switches that fix direct to the Battery Terminal ? This way you can isolate the Battery when the Car is not in use and it's just a minutes job to turn the Switch to " ON " when you're ready for another blast !
 

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Thanks Nige. That's a good idea. I will get a battery disconnect switch for winter storage. Also make the car harder to steal!
 

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Thanks Nige. That's a good idea. I will get a battery disconnect switch for winter storage. Also make the car harder to steal!
:thumbs: Should do the trick.

Another thought for you if the Car is parked where it can see Daylight. On my 916 GTV I have one of these Solar Charges which provides a trickle charge to the Battery in daylight hours. Whilst I know it does provide a very small charge I'm not convinced it does that much good but as it's cheap to buy and run then why not ? A bit like my Anti Elephant Powder, never seen an Elephant around these here parts so that proves it works doesn't it ? :D

I keep my Alfetta on the road all year round but don't use it if there is Salt/Grit/Mud on the roads, I enjoy it too much and get withdrawal symptoms if I put it to bed for a few Months ! :)
 

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I have my Spider in a supterrain parking during the winther for about 4-5 months - temp is about 10 degrees. I disconnect the battery for the duration and come spring I go there with a set of jumb leads. Sometimes it starts without help sometime it needs the jumb leads. The battery is now 6 years old, and it just any 55 Aph no name battery from a building market - looks period, though, black box and scrue-in plugs.
Erik
 
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