Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon all,

I posted a thread recently about an alignment I had one, which wasn't done well even if the track rods were pretty badly seized. Since then I've cooled down a bit and as they're not expensive and they will only continue to be a problem, is it worth purchasing a new pair for them to fit? If it is the case am I likely to need just the track rod ends or the actual track rods themseleves, or both?

Alfa Romeo 147 Track Rod End

Cheers :thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,370 Posts
Rod ends only but the threads on the arms could be badly corroded. To be honest both are usually salvageable if you have time and patience. No matter what you do the parts have to come apart and doing that will unseize them. You also know that fitting new arms means having it re-tracked so removing both rod ends, fully cleaning all threads, treat with copper grease and re-assemble will be a fix. Worst case you buy a "die nut" and, when the parts are separated, use that to run down the thread on the arms.

Of course if you can't DIY then getting a garage to do this is either expensive for them to do it as thoroughly as I have suggested or you waste your time fitting new ends to corroded threads on the arms or you pay extra to have both replaced and even then they probably won't protect the thread with copper grease.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
I've been looking at this job recently.. Last few times I've had the tracking done they've had the propane torches out to free up the track rods, and I've had the comments back that the threads are looking pretty corroded..

Spotted Birth parts on Shop4Parts for <£20 per side: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=1143&sku=68112

Figured for that money, it'd probably be worth doing! Anyone done inners/outers on jack stands at home? Any special tools required other than brute strength?

Also how long does the copper anti-seize last on these threads? Would have thought the road spray would clear it off fairly quickly...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Copper grease will stop the screwed-together parts from seizing indefinitely. To prevent corrosion on the exposed thread Waxoyl or similar will do the job. Just don't get it on rubber parts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
Discussion Starter #5

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
I've been looking at this job recently.. Last few times I've had the tracking done they've had the propane torches out to free up the track rods, and I've had the comments back that the threads are looking pretty corroded..

Spotted Birth parts on Shop4Parts for <£20 per side: https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=1143&sku=68112

Figured for that money, it'd probably be worth doing! Anyone done inners/outers on jack stands at home? Any special tools required other than brute strength?

Also how long does the copper anti-seize last on these threads? Would have thought the road spray would clear it off fairly quickly...
Haven't done inners but outers are fairly straight forward, just break the seal on the big nut before taking the ball joint out of the arm. Generally the nut is tight but give it a good wire brush and then soak in penetrating oil and some brute force should see it loosen off :)
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
46,352 Posts
I would put on a pair of inners and a pair of outers, no point messing around. Maybe gaitors too if they are in poor shape although I can't remember yours being bad. Make sure everything is protected and you'll never need to revisit the steering for the next ten years with any luck! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,103 Posts
I would put on a pair of inners and a pair of outers, no point messing around. Maybe gaitors too if they are in poor shape although I can't remember yours being bad. Make sure everything is protected and you'll never need to revisit the steering for the next ten years with any luck! :)
Dan - do you use TRW/Birth/OEM parts here, and how tricky are the inners?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Haven't done inners but outers are fairly straight forward, just break the seal on the big nut before taking the ball joint out of the arm. Generally the nut is tight but give it a good wire brush and then soak in penetrating oil and some brute force should see it loosen off :)
I would put on a pair of inners and a pair of outers, no point messing around. Maybe gaitors too if they are in poor shape although I can't remember yours being bad. Make sure everything is protected and you'll never need to revisit the steering for the next ten years with any luck! :)
Dan - do you use TRW/Birth/OEM parts here, and how tricky are the inners?
Cheers people. :thumbs:
 
  • Like
Reactions: samsdads156jtd

·
Vendor
Joined
·
46,352 Posts
Dan - do you use TRW/Birth/OEM parts here, and how tricky are the inners?
I would prefer TRW but would use Birth if the customer was working to a tight budget. I've used the Birth ones before and had no problems. I'm not a fan of Birth upper & lower wishbones.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top