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Discussion Starter #1
With a new car I normally buy a new Haynes manual, mainly for the torque figures. As there isn't such a thing for the Giulietta, and I've just ordered some discs and pads (front and rear), does anyone have any torque figures for slider pins, calliper mount, etc? I have a bit of an over tightening habit otherwise, and I like stripping threads!

Also any workshop manual pointers - if anyone knows where there is one! (seen some clues to a dutch one?)

Thanks 馃檪
Paul
 

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I don鈥檛 use torque settings unless it鈥檚 engine related but I would imagine the brake callipers and the associated bolts will be a similar setup in many cars, I know there鈥檚 not much difference in all our family cars.

I would therefore say with confidence that the torque settings would be the same.

Lastly, clean the threads and use thread lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I always apply copper slip, thread lock and so on appropriately but I never mind good advice so thank you 馃檪 I'd assume they're similar to my old Golf but I guess that different brake setups are dissimilar. My other half's Fiat 500 is certainly so - would be nice to have some certainty
 

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personally don鈥檛 bother with torque settings on stuff like that I just know how tight is tight enough if you know what I mean.

However generic torque settings for that size of fixing are.

M8 as the sliders are 28nm
M10 Carrier bolts 57nm grade 8.8 and 81nm grade 10.9.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool thanks 馃檪

I have a long story of woe involving no torque figures for the Fiat 500, having to remove the stub axle to change the rear discs (as you do!), accidentally shearing a stud at 90Nm (!?) putting it back together, ordering new studs through the local dealer, spending a week extracting the sod, etc..

Never had that happen on any other brakes over the last 20 years but there you go... being triple cautious these days! 馃槃
 

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I don't bother with a torque wrench on stuff like this either.

You just get to know what is tight enough.

As a side note, if you oil or grease threads on bolts/nuts and you are using a torque wrench you will overtighten if you use the recommended torque settings as torque settings are usually for dry assembly.

Liberation from the Impact of Lubricants on Torque Readings

I know most people here would grease the threads to prevent corrosion and ease future disassembly.
 

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There is a guy on ebay, emanualonline.com who will sell you a manual for the Giulietta, but hidden in the description is that it is in Dutch and Italian, all of the example screens are in English and Paypal will uphold his description if you dispute it. That's what happened to me. There are translation apps but I struggled to get anything from them due to the size of the file. As others on here have already said, if you have a good experience of vehicles you will know how tight to do things up. Bit like your locking wheel bolts, I would never do them up the same as the hex headed bolts but would go to about 75% of the recommended torque values
 

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My torque wrench broke about five years ago. I don't miss it. The brakes will be do up tight fine, trust your judgement. I only start doubting my self when dealing with aluminium.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk
 

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As others have said, you get a feel for it. The slider bolts aren't that tight, as you'll feel when you remove them.

Overtightening is an issue, really gets my wick when garages over torque wheel nuts with power tools for example, and things like sumps or rocker covers are easy to distort if overtightened, or at least the gaskets can be crushed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
So went for thefromt brake change today. All nice and easy right up to the calliper mount bolts. Which someone had kindly tightened to god knows what and been doubly safe with some super strength grade of red 'never to be removed again' loctite. Literally had to use a lump hammer on the end of the longest wrench I could fit under the arch for about fifteen minutes for each bolt. Ruddy hell.

After that, put them back with a reasonable torque and some lighter blue loctite and hopefully should be easier next time! Normally takes me about 30 mins a wheel for discs and pads. Must have been over an hour and a half each one this time!
 

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If I remember correctly I bought a kit from Demon Tweeks and the new mounting bolts came loaded with blue Loctite. I've never needed a lump hammer to install any brake discs or pads so worried what might be going on with your car? I would try to lubricate everything with penetrating oil to start with, leave it overnight and hopefully things will come apart?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All sorted now. The problem was the person who put them on before me seemed to use a stronger grade of red loctite and about 200nm of torque 馃槃 so the caliper bolts absolutely didn't want to shift. I think some grades of loctite are basically 'for stuff you never want to remove' and others, like the blue I use, for stuff you do. I have literally never had so much trouble either. All good, happy and installed now though. 馃檪
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When high strength thread lock has been used a bit of heat normally frees the loctite bond to make removal easier
I'll remembee that, thanks. I suspect that who ever had this before me probably bought job lot, so this may not be my only lump hammer session! 馃槃
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Two screenshots from the "manuale di riparazione".
anteriore is front, posteriore is rear.
veti are the screws, 1,5 daNm means 15Nm.
That's perfect thank you! I went for about 130Nm on the caliper mount bolts, with threadlock, and 30Nm on the slide pins. So feels like that's about right 馃檪

Where did you get the manual btw? Is that the eBay job?
 

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That's perfect thank you! I went for about 130Nm on the caliper mount bolts, with threadlock, and 30Nm on the slide pins. So feels like that's about right 馃檪

Where did you get the manual btw? Is that the eBay job?
Got it from here somewhere as .pdf-file.
 
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