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Sounds like you got all the fixings out.Did you get the 2 hard to reach small ones at the gearbox end? I ran a stanley blade as far round as I could in the join to cut as much as I could and then it came much easier. :)
 

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im in the same situation with bottom end falilure but not in a garage outside on the drive rolling around in the snow brrr its freezing
 

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More coffee - more effort

THANKS Mitch - I'll double check
Back into the frost - It may be in a garage but the snow isn't thawing off my boots!!

Stanley blade and cold fingers - hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Good luck to both of you i am not doing mine until the weather warms up. Have you checked out the pictures and thread in GTV and 916 i think it's the one titled twin spark gone rattley, the chap has added a couple of pictures of the bottom end of his engine with a knackered shell another great thread!
 

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Slowly slowly catchy ----- monkey!!??

Mitch 166 -
'found the elusive fastenings at the gearbox end - interesting little specimens, without the right tool - but got them!

Topkit -
thanks to you also - for the direction to other threads - 'found 2x big ends with rotational play (not just sliding float) I've not cracked them open yet - want to turn the engine 10 degs to judge if mains have seized - I just get the impression that the engine is tight - Plugs out and gently prise the starter ring round I guess - - {Hey this isn't bad for a 59 year old office worker?}

AOC is proving it's value - over Google!!! - Thanks again guys
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well it's March now and the weather has improved enough for me to finally remove the sump from my car to enable me to remove the big end shells, Thanks to some very good posts i had the sump undone and off the car in just about an hour ( i did have those correct ribe tools that i purchased from Totally Alfa a real godsend):) My shells had some scores on them but nothing else they have a code of 7646454 and 154SW also 6D Stamped on too so i will find out from Alfa on Monday what ones they are, all in all its not too bad a job. One more thing does anyone know the tightning torque for doing the bolts back up after fitting the shells on the con rods. :eek:
 

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Are we talking about a Twinspark engine? If so ........25 Nm + sixty degrees with the threads lubricated or 2.5 Kgm + sixty degrees threads lubricated.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for that it is a Twin Spark Engine what is with the 60 degrees is that once i have torqued it to 25nm then crank it round a further 60degrees or back it off 60 degrees. Thanks in advance
 

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Thanks for that it is a Twin Spark Engine what is with the 60 degrees is that once i have torqued it to 25nm then crank it round a further 60degrees or back it off 60 degrees. Thanks in advance
Crank it on another 60 degrees. Has anyone got any tips for doing this accurately? I bought a gauge from Machine Mart for my cylinder head bolts but it was useless. Too much slip, so cranking 90 degrees only showed as 30 degrees on the guage.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Thanks chaps, i won't bother with the buying that guage then !! i will guess it or will i get my old protractor out!!! I am suprised that you dont use any kind of threadlock on those bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
If they are stretch bolts do i need to purchase a new set then or is it ok to use the originals.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Well that is one set of big end shells fitted and the car is running again, the original shell where in very good condition two had some very light scoring but no flat spots etc, so i am ready to my second car now, which i will atempt to do tommorrow weather permitting. :)
 
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