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Speed is not as relevant as revs...in my experience most cam belts snap on starting rather than when being driven. It's the sudden tug as it fires up they snaps them. So once it's running you with probably make it to the garage....still a risk though. That said I've seen a LOT WORSE belts than that still hanging in there!
So, the start/stop could shorten the time/wear then?
 

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So, the start/stop could shorten the time/wear then?
That's a very good question...and one I had not thought about. I can't see how it can do anything but.....obviously it will put added strain on several other components too. But hopefully the engineers took that into account.
 

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That's a very good question...and one I had not thought about. I can't see how it can do anything but.....obviously it will put added strain on several other components too. But hopefully the engineers took that into account.
Maybe enough to turn an iffy worn belt, into a broken belt.
 

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On the N47 engine that is fitted to my BMW the stop/start is supposed to increase the risk of timing chain issues... I can see why it would also shorten the life of a belt as well.
 

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And on the n47 you don’t want anything extra shortening the life of the already weak chain. Especially given its location. Same goes for my n57 I am always listening out for unusual noises on mine. Slightest of noise and I will stop using it and pull the lump out.
 

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That's a very good question...and one I had not thought about. I can't see how it can do anything but.....obviously it will put added strain on several other components too. But hopefully the engineers took that into account.
Its the same belt kit as on the older FIRE engines which didn't have stop start...
 

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Hi

To be sure always check the owner's manual, although is recommended after 4 or 5 years you should replace the Timing Belt even if your car doesn't have the miles completed.
At MicksGarage.com you can get the exact Timing Belt for your car, only selecting your vehicle's make and model.

Let us know if you need anything else.
 

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The TS isn't too bad with the correct tools , do you have to lock the cams in position? Also you only have one cam sprocket to worry about lining up.

The 2.0 diesel is quite easy as well, but like the MA the engine mount needs to come out too.
 

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Nice one. Did you use the special tools to lock the crank and cam and set the camshaft position? I don't see any spanner marks on the camshaft bolt.
 

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As Symon states TS is relatively say with the correct tools, I've done this job on my GTV 6 times, on my daughter's 147 twice, and a couple of times for friends and it gets easier each time, difficulty is remembering that I have really done everything correctly as required, I have however. Also done the belts etc. on her Giulietta 1.4 which is easy in comparison. My Giulietta diesel has been done twice now and that's somewhere between the two, I did have access to the locking tools for that.

Take heed of haakon's advice. That one is often overlooked.
 

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Didn't I just mark down the position before remove the original cam belt...

I am not sure on the correct procedure on the MA as I haven't done one, but on some Alfa/Fiat engines you need to lock the cams then loosen the cam sprockets to get the tension of the belt and the timing correct.
 

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There are locking tools for MA like other Alfa engines,you remove vac pump and bolt a plate on camshaft that end. Personally I wouldn’t do the belt without the kit as by marking sprockets you are relying on timing being spot on already.
There is also a crank lock and you do slacken cam bolt off to bring slack round when tensioning.
 

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You can also get a locking kit for the diesels, but on the alfaworkshop page it describes doing the belt without it.

I did ours without the kit as they describe and it has been fine.

I would certainly use the locks on the MA though as the timing is probably a lot more critical.

And here is a guide for the MA belt change. It isn't very detailed but if you have some mechanical knowledge it should be easy enough to follow.

 
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