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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

So in chasing down an engine issue I thought I would look at the timing. I've looked at all the usual suspects and this is my last easy access resort! I have a video of the engine running and there does seem to be a fair amount of belt slap on the upper run.

My second video, with the engine off, also shows the lower right section of the cam belt is extremely loose.

Belts and w/p done 2 years ago....by garage.

I've had a look online on the process and it doesn't seem too bad. I have managed to put the cam to TDC using the valve timing check hole and used an Allen key to locate the groove. To confirm this, there are some painted marks which line up. However, can't really get to the crank to see if this is at TDC as well.....mmmm....
So, question is, before I start tearing things apart.

1 - Is this loose cam belt normal?
2 - Is there a guide in setting TDC?
3 - Do I need special tools?

Thank you in advance,

M
 

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Oh my Gosh, don't start engine again! Looks like tensioner was gone, change full kit again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. Actually the water pump and belt were all changed almost exactly 2 years ago.
I'll get it up on ramps tomorrow and have a look and see what I am in for....

Michael
 

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Full belt kit and water pump don’t take any chances.

Locking kit can be had for cheap money on eBay about £15. Easy to use and set,crank one goes on the sprocket cam one there are 2 spring loaded tools that go in where an Allen bolt blank plug is fitted. You can only get to exhaust cam though as inlet manifold needs to come off to do inlet cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well...a frustrating day.

I can not for the life of me take out the engine bracket from the engine. I have literally spent all day trying to do it! The bolts are just too long.I have removed the two lower and one upper middle but the ones upper left and right and just to long to come out. I have tried to jack up the engine to give some clearance but I am just not winning. So, I can't even inspect the tensioner.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Pictures below of the area.

Thanks,

M
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Have you tried the SAAB forums? Your photos seem to show the bolts fouling the bodywork but it looks like if the engine were to be raised another cm or two and the bolts will clear the bodywork.

What's stopping the engine being lifted? Whatever it is, undo it. The Alfa has a top stabilizer bar, does the 9-5 have the same?

Good luck, Pub.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the support...have posted in Saab and Vectra C forums.....spreading the love me! Think I'll have to raise it more somehow...however, family time now until Monday morn....
 

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I think you need to jack as high as you can go without damaging anything and lifting bracket out with bolts still in them. It’s a fiddle but can be done.
As above you will most likely need to remove the lower stabiliser to get a few extra cm.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes, I was doing so well as well....even bought a nice new 15mm reach wrench.........I can see the block needs to be only 5 cm higher...it is properly tight in there...I wonder how the garage did it 3 years ago?........however, time has won for the next few days, so will attack on Monday morn........
 

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yes, I was doing so well as well....even bought a nice new 15mm reach wrench.........I can see the block needs to be only 5 cm higher...it is properly tight in there...I wonder how the garage did it 3 years ago?........however, time has won for the next few days, so will attack on Monday morn........
Yes, you basically jack up by the sump, that is how it is done. Other mounts are also rubber, so theyļl give it some slack
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, been quite the morning.....managed to raise the block just enough and got that darn bracket out. Top left bolt was the hardest. Everything else was a breeze after that.

Anyhow's now I could see the tensioner and it was broken. I could move it easily by hand in all directions. The spring had nothing to hold on to when tensioned and you can see my picture below with the red arrow to the broken bit. This was a Dayco tensioner and was put on by my garage 3 years, 26,000 miles, ago. Everything else looks ok but have ordered the complete kit as well as water pump.

I am pretty sure the cam (white dot around the 2:30 o'clock and two red marks by previous garage) and crank are in time but have ordered a timing kit as well, just to be on the safe side. I think maybe the crank could be out by one tooth but the timing kit should confirm this.

So hopefully this should sort it out which means I can drive my Saab for a few more years yet!

Thanks for all your help to date and would appreciate a heads up on the timing mark pictures below (Z19DTH engine)

Michael
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I wouldn’t go by the timing marks,you have ordered the locking kit so just stick that on to be 100% sure. You also need to slacken cam sprocket when tensioning belt so marks will move.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just getting my ducks in a row for when parts arrive next week. However, getting conflicting reports on the water pump/ coolant pump 3 bolts. Saab WIS is saying use thread locking adhesive 242. Other threads I have read say do not use a locking compound but a smear of RTV silicone sealant.......don't really want to do it again if it leaks...so what's the general thought?

Thanks,

M
 

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I didn’t use any thread lock in the bolts I also don’t remember using any RTV I cleaned block up and just fitted new pump and seal,then nipped bolts up.
 

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Just getting my ducks in a row for when parts arrive next week. However, getting conflicting reports on the water pump/ coolant pump 3 bolts. Saab WIS is saying use thread locking adhesive 242. Other threads I have read say do not use a locking compound but a smear of RTV silicone sealant.......don't really want to do it again if it leaks...so what's the general thought?

Thanks,

M
I used both: threadlock on the threaded section, a light smear of silicone sealant on the shank where it passes through the water jacket. No leaks, no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Neo's kit arrived today......2 days.....got to be a record for round these parts!

On the new tensioner, I can see straight away where the missing bits are on my old one. Couldn't help myself but had a little play with the new belt that has the timing marks on it. It seems upon inspection the crank may be advanced by one tooth......timing kit has not arrived sadly to confirm......think I may just press on with it.....
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Honestly I would just be patient and wait for the timing kit to arrive, you want to make sure timing is spot on and also all the slack is pulled round when tensioning. Last thing you want to do is have to start again
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is true...I'll do the water pump tomorrow and wait for the kit.....so I can do the whole lot once and once only! Getting quite excited at the thought of getting my car back to how it was.....it's been a while.....
 
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