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Min height is 15cm......you may struggle to get it under to do the lift. One hell of a lot easier than digging a pit. Trouble with me though, If I went to all that trouble digging a pit like that I'd be really tempted to chuck the missus in and fill it back over:lol:
 

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Stay away from these things mate !

Just think why they are giving the stands for free !!!

In any case, its not at all convenient. A mate has something similar but bigger, and its a pain to work under the car. Might as well be on your back and with the car on stands.

Dig the pit ! So much better ! Plus you wont have to clean the oil spills :rolleyes:
 

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Min height is 15cm......you may struggle to get it under to do the lift. One hell of a lot easier than digging a pit. Trouble with me though, If I went to all that trouble digging a pit like that I'd be really tempted to chuck the missus in and fill it back over:lol:
:lol:
 

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John have a look at HAMER it's a manual four poster, not suggesting new, I picked mine up second hand for £400... works a treat with a seat on rollers... I guess it depends on space but certainly handy for under car ops.

The HAMER unit comprises :
3mtre run on ramps (for wheel bases up to 2700mm)
with 4 off 5ft jacks. Giving lift of 4'4" (1320mm)
with underamp clearance of 4ft (1220mm)
Drive up ramps (Wooden)
All fixings
£1245.00 excluding vat.
Extra high option giving 4'4" (1320mm) under ramp clearance £1519.25 excluding vat.
OPTIONS
3.5 mtre run on ramp. Starting price £1540.00 excluding vat.
4 mtre run on ramp. Starting price £1560.00 excluding vat.
300mm wider frame add an additional £90.00 excluding vat.


JACKING PLATFORM X 2 AND BRIDGE £226.80 excluding vat. for 3mtre/3.5mtre/4.mtre run on ramps.

Price of comfort chair when purchased with lifter £73.50 excluding vat. Chassis only £42.00 excluding vat.
Comfort chairs bought seperately are £84.00 excluding vat.
 

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As said 15cm is actually quite high. You notice ad has a van in the pic. My heavy duty trolley jack only just goes low enough for my 159.
The lifting pads are fixed distance apart; will they fit your car and will they sit on adequately strong area of the car and without deforming where the weight of the car is on them.
1500kg weight limit - the 159 is 1800kg.
I wouldn't want to work under it and with the frame itself that limits you to front or rear areas of the car.
No; it doesn't do it for me!
 

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If you can't build a two storey garage then a pit is the way to go:thumbs:0bviously a full scale ramp is the kippers ****:cool:
Just make sure its wide enough to get to the areas you need ie the wheels are on the very edge of the pit:cool:
When my old man first started he had a pit, it was a right pain as it was too narrow, at least you know the measurement of the car(s) you want to fit over it:)
 

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I built my own Tilt system which also means that I get two cars in one space in the garage. A local steel fabricator bent the ramps and I hired a heavy duty Mig welder for the "A Frame" sides. The car is winched up the slope using extra ramps - well supported! - then when balanced and secured at the top, it is carefully brought back to horizontal and supported under each end.
 

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I'd go for a pit mate unless your house is built on low lying land and the water table is not much below ground level, I had one at my bugalow when I lived in suffolk and it worked great but let water in even though it was concrete lined. This was caused by a high water table, so something to think about if you are in an area where this could be a problem although I know you can buy plastic/fibreglass liners to get around this problem. A 4 post lift is great if you have the height.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Morning chaps

Thanks for all the feed back on this:thumbs: I agree that one is bit weak, it's just building the garage is going to be a mission let a lone a pit too:cry: at the moment I've modified some ramps . I've had 5mm plate bent up top where the tire sits so the gtv tire fit nicely then bolted some 4x4 wood to the base and then made up some 5mm ramp extensions ! Work great just not nice driving up there on your own with no one to check that it's all lined up.so have to keep jumping out to look:lol: it does work well tho! I know a pit is the way to go and will need to look at drainage:thumbs:
Rodger love your 4 post tho, great bit of kit! The problem I have is I was only going to build up to 8 foot which would only get the car 3-4 foot off the ground? But working on it sitting down could be ok, better than on my back;) and the bonus with yours you can pack it away if you want:thumbs:
As we're talking about garages how many of you guys have the bolt together concrete types? I wanted to go the breeze block route so it's solid, my garage at the mo is wood and has done well for the last 8 years! but I'm thinking concrete to get the high for a four post and no planing permission ;) as the size I want will been 23foot wide by 20 long! Want it to be my dream garage:D

Thoughts chaps:thumbs:
 

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My garage is a "pre fab" with a asbestos roof'
It is now fully insulated and has been plastered in side
Asbestos removed and replaced with Wood / felt flat roof
UPVC facia boards and guttering
AND central heating:thumbs:















Unfortunatly my car is not in the "garage" as it is now home to the cat and all of the kids bikes / toys etc :cry:
 

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Build the best garage you can afford and have space for. Be careful of your local planning consents. Try and forget about flat roofs, keep the ridge height under four metres will help at planning. Pre- fabs are rubbish to be honest, cheap but rubbish, certainly don't go for a used one that you have to dismantle and put back together again especially if it has asbestos on the roof. Cement fibre sheeting is ok/ish as a cheaper roof covering but can lead to condensation. A Marley modern type tile is cheap, looks ok and will enable you to have a shallower pitch on the roof. I don't know what your house is is like but a concrete block built garage finished in a smooth render isn't that costly, if you can build it yourself. Mine didn't cost me much, wired, double glazed it too for about 2.5k. Mind you, I do it for a living and did it all myself. My electrician cabled it as part of the house re-wire and that cost me a week at his house in France putting the roof on his extension. You will probably only want to do it once, so have a good think before you start. That's my advice, for what it's worth.
 
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