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Discussion Starter #1
So... are there any special tricks regarding the change of brake fluid in a 156 ...

Do I have to press the brake pedal, clutch pedal and keep my finger on the interior light switch while I empty the system???

Or do I just simply open the bleed nibbles and let it all just ... bleed out???

... and althought I previously stated that I do not need an advice on bleeding the brakes... well I do... My friend who was supposed to do it/teach me how is unavailable at the moment :rolleyes:
 

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Make sure you have another person, a jar and a hose with a non return valve on the end.

Take cap off reservior
Slacken the bleed nipple
Get somebody to slowly and firmly press the brakes while somebody holds the hose onto the bleed nipple directing the old fluid into the jar
Make sure somebody keeps an eye on the fluid level don't let it drop below min
Work from the farthest caliper away from the master cylinder and work forwards then go back again to get all the air out of the system.

Thats just a quick and dirty guide if anyone wants to add please do :D
 

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I am thinking of chaging the brake fluid as well on my 147jtd...

Nice reply F355...thanks...but one stupid question...why the fluid level shouldnt go below Min???

any recomendations on brake fluid or original one is Ok
 
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DOT 4 or 5.1 (NOT 5.0)

Fluid should not go below minimum or you risk emptying the system of fluid, letting in more air and it'll be harder to bleed.

Easiet is to buy one of the gunson easi-bleed type of kits where there is a bottle pressurised from your spare tyre. This pushes the fluid though and replaces the fluid used from a reservoir. Also means you can do the job without a helper.

Not one of my favourite jobs :rolleyes:

wrinx
 

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Be careful with the brake fluid, its a really good paint stripper so don't spill it on anything :eek:

san
 

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my bella doesnt have a spare tyre :cheese:

Thanks for the tip...will look for that gunson kit. and use one of my old 15inch tires :D

Take care,

Petko
 
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kgb said:
my bella doesnt have a spare tyre :cheese:
No problem, I've used the frnt tyre nearest the brake reservoir as well ;)

....just remember to pump it back up before you go testing the brakes
:eek: :eek: :eek:
wrinx
 

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Sanitary,

Thanks I think you saved me from heart attack...another reason not to go to the dealer
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tips :)
 

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A better starting point is to remove all the old fluid from the resivor, using a syringe. Then fill up with new fluid & use that to flush out the old stuff.... keeping the new fluid above the MIN level at all times.

Also, as the clutch feeds off the same supply that fluid will need to be bleed out too, perform a "search" for Alfenai &/or clutch to find a thread i posted a few months back. It shows pictures of the clutch bleed nipple & how to access it..... got to remove the battry :(

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=34184&highlight=clutch
 

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wrinx said:
DOT 4 or 5.1 (NOT 5.0)

Fluid should not go below minimum or you risk emptying the system of fluid, letting in more air and it'll be harder to bleed.

Easiet is to buy one of the gunson easi-bleed type of kits where there is a bottle pressurised from your spare tyre. This pushes the fluid though and replaces the fluid used from a reservoir. Also means you can do the job without a helper.

Not one of my favourite jobs :rolleyes:

wrinx
Are we sure that DOT 5.1 is OK to use? I went out and bought a tin last weekend in preperation but noticed last night that my 156 brake fluid reservoir it says to use 4.0 only on it?
 

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wrinx said:
DOT 4 or 5.1 (NOT 5.0)
SUPER Dot 4 or 5.1 ...... Super has a slightly higher temperature allowance meaning brake fade should be later.


The clutch is fed from the same reservoir, and doesn't have a bleed nipple. There's a "How-to" on my website I put together with the help of "Black Beauty".
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Black Beauty said:
A better starting point is to remove all the old fluid from the resivor, using a syringe. Then fill up with new fluid & use that to flush out the old stuff.... keeping the new fluid above the MIN level at all times.

Also, as the clutch feeds off the same supply that fluid will need to be bleed out too, perform a "search" for Alfenai &/or clutch to find a thread i posted a few months back. It shows pictures of the clutch bleed nipple & how to access it..... got to remove the battry :(

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=34184&highlight=clutch
You mean that I empty the system from the old fluid and fill it at the same time with new fluid?

Will the fluids color/smell/taste change when the new fluid has reached the brake? :confused:
 

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What comes out is likely to be dirty ... and you will see the new clean fluid appearing. Try and get a bleed system with a clear piece of pipe. Th eone I use (Visibleed) has a one way valve on the end.

I wouldn't try tasting it! :eek:
 

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gazza82 said:
I wouldn't try tasting it! :eek:
LOL :p I have before and it wasn't nice. This was when I was changing the brake pistons on another car and got a nice spray in the face :eek: Things to consider dont get it on paintwork or yourself if you get it in your mouth or eye put it under a running tap for 5 mins :D

Dot 5.1 should be find but if in doubt use DOT 4 because that is what the car was spec'd with. The problem is if you use DOT 5.1 and don't fully bleed the system you will get DOT4 and DOT5.1 in the system which isn't recommended.

You will see when the new brake fluid is comming through because the old stuff will be a browny black but the new stuff will be a golden colour.

Also make sure you test the brakes and keep an eye on the levels for a few days afterwards to make sure everything is as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The bleed nibble in the brakes... where does the fluid actually come out?? from the top of the nibble when I have slacken it or trough the screw part or what?

and is this the right order of things to do:

1. suck the old fluid out of the tank
2. top up the tank with new fluid (and make sure the level doesn't drop below minimum)
3. remove tyre #1
4. open bleed nibble
5. let the old fluid come off to a bottle (stop when only golden color fluid comes out)
6. close nibble
... repeat this from #3 for all tyres

7. change the clutch fluid per instructions
8. bleed air out from brake system

...

...

Should I replace the pads before or after I have changed the fluid?
 

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1 & 2 are optional but thats pretty much it.

The bleed screw is a bleed nipple (now you can visualise it lol) so fluid comes out of the center of it and the nut part is around the outside.



Thats pretty much how they look^
 

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Oh and

"Should I replace the pads before or after I have changed the fluid?"

During :lol: If your car has ABS you want the bleed nipple open while you seperate the pistons because back pressure can cause problem and damage the ABS system.
 

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Also you should push back the caliper back all the way inwards, with the nipple open, this ensures all the old fluid from that calipe ris drained away, if not some old stuff caould be lurking about.

Also jam the caliper back when in, to ensure only new fluid is in it chamber.
 

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Pasi said:
The bleed nibble in the brakes... where does the fluid actually come out?? from the top of the nibble when I have slacken it or trough the screw part or what?

and is this the right order of things to do:

1. suck the old fluid out of the tank
2. top up the tank with new fluid (and make sure the level doesn't drop below minimum)
3. remove tyre #1
4. open bleed nibble
5. let the old fluid come off to a bottle (stop when only golden color fluid comes out)
6. close nibble
... repeat this from #3 for all tyres

7. change the clutch fluid per instructions
8. bleed air out from brake system

Should I replace the pads before or after I have changed the fluid?
You missed the bit where you pump the brake pedal slowly to push the brake fluid out. Its part of job number 5.

I`ve done mine recently and so has Sanitary and the change in colour is quite noticable when the new fluid starts to come through. We both went to 5.1 though so I don`t know if thats a little lighter in colour anyway.

Change the pads first as this has the effect of pushing the calipers pistons back like Black Beauty says. Then you do the bleeding.

Its really not that difficult, honest, but its easier with two people. One to keep the nipple loose but not too loose and one to pump the brake pedal. The difficulty is that ideally you want to tighten the nipple when the brake pedal is depressed, just to make sure no bubbles get sucked back in. If the nipple is too loose then you may suck a bubble back through the thread.

Its best to buy at least a litre of fluid as this is plenty to practice with and enough to cope with a few 'mistakes'.
 
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