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Thermostat check thread

74K views 228 replies 82 participants last post by  Fruity  
#1 · (Edited)
i decided to write this as to help numerous owners on here to diagnose thermostat problems.
the thermostat is basically a mechanical valve that opens and closes in relationship to engine temperature,letting water to go to radiator to be cooled, so as to keep the engine running at near enough its optimum temperature:p usually around 88c to 90 c
a faulty thermostat will give cool running of engine therefore give the engine management system signals through temperature sensor, that the engine is still warming up so it will fuel accordingly.....using more fuel affecting drivability,and in winter heater not as good as it should be
remember this simple test is suitable for 99.9% of all engines that are water cooled


thermostat is not an on/off valve it opens and closes to keep engine temp constant,in very cold weather it may be just half way open to restrict flow to radiator ,in hot weather it will be fully open
any of you see ya temp rise when car is stationary to 90 ish and when you drive off it drops down to 70ish means stat cant respond so its duff

THIS TEST SHOULD BE DONE FROM COLD PREFARABLY NEXT DAY IN MORNING and only after doing test by the letter then ask questions!!!!!!!!!
make sure heater is turned OFF this will help to speed process up of warming up
from cold start engine up and warm engine up
as engine warms up feel the top hose of the radiator(this hose is about 2" in diameter) and this should be cold (thermostat working)
if hose warms up with engine ,this means thermostat is passing and will need replacing
if your thermostat is working correctly after about ten minutes of warming up (depending on ambient temperature) hose should start getting warm as thermastat lets water through ,so just have a quick look to see what temperature gauge is at ,this should be around 90c or mid point on gauge depends on engine type
if anyone like to add anything or criticise this please do:thumbs:


REMEMBER THIS THO PLEASE this thread is to check thermostats basic operation is correct
it wont diagnose water pump problems ,radiator problems ,air locks
and also a sticking thermostat
thermostats are relative easy to replace and inexpensive to replace
with the basics of hand tools and knowledge compared to above..
so if you have any problems mentioned in this last part of this
thread by all means use this thread to check your stat ................
then start a new thread asking questions regards your problem
knowing your thermostat is working correctly!!!!!!!


symptons of thermostat can usually be engine taking long time to get up to temperature or not!
also engine temperature mid way on gauge round town ie stop start traffic and soon as open road comes temperature dropping instead of it staying mid way ,,,,,,reason for this is radiator is designed to be capable of cooling engine efficiently at maximum performance plus a bit more ....
Radiator size is designed as such to cool whatever heat generated by engine in question
now this is where thermostat comes in ,this opens and closes to to a degree to keep temperature at a reasonable constant ie diesels and petrol at 90c (these being approximate values)
 
#3 ·
take in account that the temp gauges of many 156's give false readings, 70+ on the meter means 80+ measured with Alfadiag. If the meter stays on 60- than you have a knackered stat for sure..
Many members changed stats only to see that the temp still stays at 70+....
 
#4 ·
fair does +1:thumbs: i appreciate your input,they still be able to do basic test of thermostat regardless of their reading on gauge ,if hose stays cold then heats up after say ten mins ,it could show to a point how accurate their gauge is maybe:cool:
 
#5 ·
And just because someone has replaced one within the last year or so doesnt mean its not gone again, i changed mine less than a year ago and have just had to change it again this week due to it taking ages to warm up and never going above 60 now its up to 90 within a few miles and im not freezing on my short trip to work, gave the not so old one a bit of a looking at after i cut open the housing and its stuck half open, this one by the way was an expensive one from a well known supplier, the new one was a cheaper one from the local parts place so only time will tell if it lasts any longer (only car in the 30 or so ive owned that ive ever had to change the stat twice)
 
#22 ·
+1 replaced "summer" stat ( could see daylight through old one when removed:wow:) with new Alfa one, it was DOA temperature never got above 70 in GTV. even in heavy traffic. New one perfect after 6 months:thumbs:
 
#6 · (Edited)
forgot to quote spuds message
i think that is typical of diagnosis on most sites regards any component ie maf sensors prime culprit ,because it was last replaced say last julember :cheese:it doesnt need to be looked at again
hopefully in this instance a basic check should waggle that important finger in the correct direction :)
 
#8 ·
just do basic check and see if thermostat is working correctly,and to just check gauge.... when hose starts getting warm should indicate on gauge approximately 90c,so could give an indication how accurate your gauge is:thumbs:
 
#15 ·
sensor on stat has nothing to do with the basic function of a thermostat


the sensors purpose is to measure temperature and relay it to ecu,regardless then a output is sent to gauge


if you follow the basic test of the thread it will give you an idea you either need or dont need a new thermostat:thumbs:
 
#24 ·
I agree with the diagnosis on here ... but for me Step 1 is ALWAYS to plug it into the diagnostics and check what temp the ECU thinks the car is running at ... quick and easy (and 100% accurate :thumbs:)
 
#28 ·
with regard to overheating, my GT V6 overheated for the first time yesterday, whilst under normal driving the temp read 90, but every time I gave it the beans the gauge shot up ( I obviously eased off) then when on over run downhill it cooled back down. I stopped, opened the bonnet to find the radiator fans were running as normal, , oil was fine, plenty of water in the header tank, (a bit rusty coloured) but the top of the engine and the exhaust manifold were cold. Tell me its something simple like the thermostat !! Only serviced last week:confused:
 
#34 ·
Now I've had mine down to a guy who's plugged it in since my gauge barely comes to 60. He has said the stat is opening and shutting as it should be and did an emmisions test to check it wasn't overfueling. He has said it is the sensor that feeds the gauge reading. He is an Alfa specialist, but wanted ÂŁ110 parts and ÂŁ75 labour since he said the stat should be changed at the same time. Now first which sensor is this that needs to be changed? Any pics if possible? And do you think i'm just getting milked for the extra. I know I can get the sensors at about ÂŁ13 each trade. Just dont know which one I need.
 
#35 ·
if he was alfa specialist i would have assumed he would have plugged in to ecu and said if gauge was accurate or not to sensor
gauges are notorius inaccurate but if you check your stat your self with the check described at bigginning of this thread you shouldnt go wrong:thumbs:
 
#36 ·
Did the "check" with mine. Remains cold until gets up to temp.

Takes 2 miles to get 90, then when stat opens, drops to 70 (indicated on gauge). After a few minutes of driving, goes up to 90 and the loop begins again.

Getting 280 to the tank of town driving :mad: Defo exhaust has a hole somewhere so maybe that is affecting mileage rather than stat???
 
#41 ·
the kangorooing is not right ... sounds like the stat is a bit sticky

mpg: my 1.6 is appaulingly bad,
280 to the tank, but too much town driving.
380 with 80% motorway miles.
a friend gets 400+ everytime!!! makes me mad! he does 50% motorway miles!

oh, my stat works apparently, kangarooing dial, between 70 and 90 but last few months its been 60-80...?

... sounds like it was a bit sticky ... now it's stuck ...
 
#38 ·
mpg: my 1.6 is appaulingly bad,
280 to the tank, but too much town driving.
380 with 80% motorway miles.
a friend gets 400+ everytime!!! makes me mad! he does 50% motorway miles!

oh, my stat works apparently, kangarooing dial, between 70 and 90 but last few months its been 60-80...?
 
#40 ·
Remember as well that if you have an oilburner it will take longer to warm up than a petrol.
 
#42 ·
Now im just a little lost. Today the gauge finally came off of 60. All the way upto 100 in traffic then dropped down to 70 again when I got moving. And back upto 90 just as soon as the traffic got slow again. Not fitted the parts yet. Now shall I just carry on and fit a new stat and sender or is it possible its just magically fixed itself?
 
#44 ·
Yeah did the check yesterday and the pipe seemed to be getting warm pretty quickly. But maybe not. Will try from cold tonight again. Its just puzzling me a little now. Unless it is just sticking in there occasionally? But then it doesn't explain the engine finally getting warm today after about 600 miles of driving so far.
 
#49 ·
My 2c it looks like a dodgy stat, cheap and easy "fix" :cool:do this and see if it solves the problem.Then if it doesn't solve the problem tackle the more complex stuff. Good luck:thumbs:
 
#54 ·
changed mine at the weekend, nice simple job :)

Took intake pipe and the battery out to get access to the metal bracket that holds the wiring so I could access the bolts on the stat housing, replaced the OEM hose clip with a stainless jubilee and topped up. Now warms up fairly quick and much warmer inside, will see how much the fuel consumption improves as the weeks go by.

Dave