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Hi Folks.......I have a problem with the long bolt that holds the rear suspension strut, the bloody thing will not come out, tried hitting it with a lump hammer, got me 900NM impact on it and a breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe attached.
I am worried it might snap, has anyone had similar problems and does anyone have any solutions?
 

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It's a fairly common issue to find that one seized in place, I've not had to deal with it myself, but plenty of threads on here - have a search.

Options include; directing heat to it, grinding it off, coating in plusgas or similar penetrating fluid (not WD40) over the course of a few days - which I'm sure won't help you if you've already got most of it apart.

More often than not, they end up having to replace the bolt as it's snapped, or been mullered.
 

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Managed to get both my rear bolts out without snapping them.

The first thing is to get a grinder or a drill with a wire wheel and get rid of all the rust and corrosion and layers of crud build up around the bolt, nuts and washers so the wd40 will have a chance of penetrating the seized parts.

Then liberally spray it with penetrating oil and leave to soak and repeat.

I used a handheld blowtorch and heated up both ends and sprayed it with more wd40( it will just evaporate) and heat up again, spray and repeat.



Then, with a quality socket and a breaker bar, just keep going at it with short sharp pulls. It will go, took me about an hour.

I copper greased everything when I refitted it all back.
 

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Hi Folks.......I have a problem with the long bolt that holds the rear suspension strut, the bloody thing will not come out, tried hitting it with a lump hammer, got me 900NM impact on it and a breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe attached.

I am worried it might snap, has anyone had similar problems and does anyone have any solutions?
This is normal. Get medieval and buy a replacement when the shagged item final sercomes to your violence.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk
 

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How much of the suspension are you replacing?

If you’re doing all of it, either drop the whole subframe (and attack the bolt on the bench), or cut the transverse arms and attack these separately.

Remember to cover it in grease when you put it back....
 

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As others have said ... if it's that corroded in place it's probably best to change it anyway, for strength reasons, so buy another and cut the old one off.
 

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The bolt passes through a spacer and it is this that seizes to the bolt. I took the easy option and replaced the bolts and spacer so the one side that really refused to part company was cut off ..

The other was soaked every day for about a week in proper penetrating fluid and came loose with a long breaker bar and impact socket worked up and down until it cam loose. I cut the other one off as I was just wasting time having source the new parts.
 
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