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Discussion Starter #1
Apologies for posting what must be the 250th post about this, (I have gone though most of the posts i promises) but i have the dreaded notchy/stiff clutch syndrome, where it's fine one minute, then randomly it gets stiff half way through the travel, and also worryingly doesn't feel like i get the full length of travel sometimes.

Anyway reason for reposting this issue is because the few pictures I have found dont seem to accurately (or in simple terms) indicate what i'm actually looking at! :smash:

Here is my photo:
https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/s960x960/12973335_10154047015175586_6289004914888028175_o.jpg

Can someone point out exactly what it is im meant to be 'fixing'?

Now I want to use the fix'es suggested here:

1)http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/806170-gt-clutch-pedal-squeak-creak-physical-cure.html

2) http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/308272-clutch-pedal-creak-squeek-permanent-fix.html

Where he mentions "turning the master cylinder piston round 180 degrees" is he on about the white spring bit with the grease all over it? If so, how do i get to it/remove the clip etc?

And where should this extra washer go etc etc??

Also is this fix still the best/most up to date one?

N.b. I had a new clutch fitted a few months ago.

Thanks
 

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What you're describing sounds more serious than the squeaky/creaky pedal problem that's cured with a washer...

But fitting a washer and turning the piston is an easy job, so worth trying first!

On the left about half way down on your picture, you see a big silver rectangle thing.

That's the end of the piston plunger.

The split pin to the left of it slides out, the piston then slides off the shaft that's connected to the pedal, then rotate the piston through 180 degrees, refit it on the pedal, slip a penny washer over the end, and then re-fit the split pin. A liberal dab of silcone grease in the are can help too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What you're describing sounds more serious than the squeaky/creaky pedal problem that's cured with a washer...

But fitting a washer and turning the piston is an easy job, so worth trying first!

On the left about half way down on your picture, you see a big silver rectangle thing.

That's the end of the piston plunger.

The split pin to the left of it slides out, the piston then slides off the shaft that's connected to the pedal, then rotate the piston through 180 degrees, refit it on the pedal, slip a penny washer over the end, and then re-fit the split pin. A liberal dab of silcone grease in the are can help too.
Thanks Editor, I had the same issue before the new clutch , but then it came back about 3 months later after fitting the new clutch too. But yeah I "think" i understand what you mean now. So the white grease covered spring at the top of the pic that moves at an angle is irrelevant then?

P.s. found this diagram, and two other useful links, can you explain which bit is which??
https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12439356_10154047066020586_9078821019946256836_n.jpg?oh=719e4dfa512f4579e60ffd533b4f0cbb&oe=57764439



http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/179905-squeaky-clutch-pedal.html
How to Fix a Squeaky Clutch Pedal*|*devonbuy.com
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/210617-gt-jtd-stiff-clutch.html

Your's mechanic was right.

Mechanic's usualy recomend clutch change as the easiest option because in that case they can check and exclude all possible problems.
But these are some common problem's with clutch systems on 156/147/GT which can be easily repaired without removing gearbox.

Symptom
-> Possible problem

Clutch hard to press
Clutch hard and notchy
-> usualy fork getting stuck in bushes (remove the top bush, spray down the fork a lot of WD, and after that a lot of oil http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8648/1231m.jpg)

Clutch soft when cold and getting harder in trafic
-> usualy problem with release bearing getting stuck on shaft, or fork getting stuck in bushes (remove the top bush, spray down the fork and in direction of shaft a lot of WD, and after that a lot of oil http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/3374/1232u.jpg)

Loosing clutch pedal
-> usualy some air in hydraulic system, caused by leaking clutch slave cylinder wich is damaged because of long period with hard clutch pedal (change the clutch slave cylinder, and lubricate everything you can http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6238/1233p.jpg)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
edit - (i think I might get it!)
I just had another the look, the shiny cylindrical bit that connects to the top of the piston (left middle of my pic and no.8 i believe on the diagram pic), next to the clip/pin, i pressed on the clutch using my hand and watched this cylindrical thing (bush?), and i noticed it moves horizontally as its pressed/de-pressed, i.e. there is fair bit of play, so im guessing this is where the washer goes!!??

Still confused about turning the piston 180 degrees though! :paranoid:
 

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Where he mentions "turning the master cylinder piston round 180 degrees" is he on about the white spring bit with the grease all over it? If so, how do i get to it/remove the clip etc?
No, the suggestion is to turn the master cylinder rod 180 degrees. Have a look at your clutch pedal, the master cylinder is connected to the pedal by a rod (piston) and held in place by a split pin. Remove the pin and remove the rod from the pedal, turn the rod 180 degrees and pop it back onto the pedal, refit the pin. Not sure which side of the rod the washer suggestion should be placed, use trial end error, see which side, if any, is better.

Haven't seen this suggestion before, might have a go meself.

All the best

Pub.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the replies guys, taken a while to sink in but i think finally do truly get it!! Man I've been dense!

The cylindrical shiny silver bit "is" the top of the piston, i need remove the r-clip, remove the top of the piston (shiny cylindrical bit), then rotate it (i.e. like a screw, turn anti clockwise right?) and put it all back on, but my question now is, does the extra washer go to left or to the right of the shiny cylindrical bit?? Do i need some lithium grease here? What size does the washer need to be??

And one final question...promise...how do i avoid/resolve the cruise control issue?

Also, I believe I need to stick some white lithium grease sprayed on the pushrod itself and under the little rubber boot
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi all, sorry to resurrect a flagging post, but "finally" going give this a go tomorrow! Just wanted to clarify if i need to watch out for anything RE the cruise control switch? Will me removing the piston and other parts cause any issues? And if so what do i need to do? Thanks.
 
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