[DangerousDave74]

I have a 2001 cup and was wondering if anyone knows what temperature the gauge reads on the line between 90 and 130.
Only I've had a new stat and sensor fitted today and the fan don't kick in now till that line, yet the examiner says it is at 99-100 deg C.

 

[DangerousDave74]

Bump......

 

[Joss]

The temp gauges are not linear. The line below 90 represents 80 and the line above reperesents 100. Confusing I know but they are all like that.

 

[DangerousDave74]

Thanks joss for the reply. If that is the case then the temp on the examiner matches the gauge. It got me worried cos I've never seen it reach that high before, not even in the 2.0 TS.
I dont fancy a big bill for the head gasket, that's why I'm worrying. The alarming thing is that the gauge gets up to 90 within 1.5 miles of driving first thing in the mornings and I've NEVER has that in any of my cars.

 

[.:ian:.]

Does it get to over 90 whilst moving, or just when stationary? There should be two fan speeds, it may be your resistor(s) are broken so you only get the higher speed fan. Lots of threads on this if you search.

 

[Alexzver]

The alarming thing is that the gauge gets up to 90 within 1.5 miles of driving first thing in the mornings

That's not normal :tut: How's your radiator looking?

 

[DangerousDave74]

Does it get to over 90 whilst moving, or just when stationary? There should be two fan speeds, it may be your resistor(s) are broken so you only get the higher speed fan. Lots of threads on this if you search.

Both fans work properly and it's about half way between 90 and the next mark whilst travelling.

 

[DangerousDave74]

That's not normal :tut: How's your radiator looking?

Radiator is in good condition. I can't explain why it's like it is now and not when the old one was in.
Do you think a ecu reset would cure it?

 

[.:ian:.]

Both fans spin at the same speed, but there should be an initial slow speed, then when it gets a bit hotter, a fast speed. The slow speed is controlled by a resistor per fan, and for cars with 2 fans, once one resistor goes, the other takes the full current from both fans and quickly expires.

That wont explain why it gets so hot on the move though...

Does the rad get hot at all? Maybe the new stat is stuck closed?

 

[Joss]

Normal operating temps for them is between 88-98 so it sounds like yours is working as it should. My GTA used to get warm pretty quick. I've put a new rad in it and removed the precats and it definitely takes longer to warm now but I think that is more down to the lack of cat in the engine bay. What engine is in yours? Is it a CF2 with no pre cat. I believe later ones have pre cats like the GTA which cold account for the high heat soak and seemingly quick warm up time.

New rad wouldn't hurt mind

 

[DangerousDave74]

It's got a pre cat cos you can read it on alfadiag.
I did notice this morning that the temp got up to 90 and it was blowing cool/warm air through the vents, not hot though.

 

[Alexzver]

Radiator is in good condition. I can't explain why it's like it is now and not when the old one was in.
Do you think a ecu reset would cure it?

Probably not. I would say the stat is stuck closed - now way that a 3.0 V6 can get up to 90 after just 2 miles of driving. My 2.0 TS has half cooling fluid and gets to 83 in three times longer (new original stat and rad in good condition). Unless there is a lot of stop-go or traffic. Then it would make sense.

Did you use genuine parts? I've heard the the aftermarket stats weren't as precise at reading the temps, but were more like VW temps - start the engine and after 2 minutes it's on 90.

 

[Joss]

It's got a pre cat cos you can read it on alfadiag.
I did notice this morning that the temp got up to 90 and it was blowing cool/warm air through the vents, not hot though.

You may have an air lock still. Did you bleed the rad from the screw? Then warm it up with the head tank cap off and the put the fans on full with the blowers?

Probably not. I would say the stat is stuck closed - now way that a 3.0 V6 can get up to 90 after just 2 miles of driving. My 2.0 TS has half cooling fluid and gets to 83 in three times longer (new original stat and rad in good condition). Unless there is a lot of stop-go or traffic. Then it would make sense.

Did you use genuine parts? I've heard the the aftermarket stats weren't as precise at reading the temps, but were more like VW temps - start the engine and after 2 minutes it's on 90.

It does sound a bit quick but remember the v6 produces a hell of a lot more heat than the ts so I would expect it to be quicker even with the larger volume of water. And with those precats the heat generated in the engine bay will be massive

 

[DangerousDave74]

Genuine parts was used.

 

[michlo]

Thing is no two GTV's are the same, some run hot, some run cool, some handle like poo on 17" wheels some dont, thats why we love them they are very individual....

My 2.0 TS runs warm, however never above 100 and usually at the 90 mark, the mechanic says thats ok problem is that the gauge reads one thing and a laser thermometer reads slightly lower on key components like the thermostat housing and other metallic components on the cooling system.

And the fans running on high speed whilst you are moving forward at anything over 30 mph will make the temp rise due to the fans acting against air flow or visa versa it can be a problem...

Each to their own...

 

[DangerousDave74]

Sorted it thanks boys, put the old sensor back in and it runs at 90 dead.