Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,019 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
...and all things sparkly.

We had a new bathroom suite installed about 5 years ago. We decided on down lighters and have seven installed.

The problem is, some of the lights have started flickering on and off. Sometimes they wont turn on at all. Then, as if by the power of Grey Skull, when you pull the cord again, the light decides it will work.

I'm assuming its a transformer issue. This being the case, can anyone recommend or has anyone used a specific make for their down lighters, that hasn't given these sorts of issues.

Would it be possible to remove all the transformers for each bulb and connect into one single transformer unit?

Any advice would be gratefully received. We're now down to two consistently working bulbs and with the short days, showering (and shaving :eek:) in the dark isn't a pleasant experience. :lol:

TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,827 Posts
I had issues with downlighters like this intermittently working. Quick climb around the loft and it was evident that the fitters had been lazy. They had not fitted the fire boxes and covered the lights with insulation. Result is the lights overheated and cut out. Get yer bum up in the loft and have a look.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,019 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I had issues with downlighters like this intermittently working. Quick climb around the loft and it was evident that the fitters had been lazy. They had not fitted the fire boxes and covered the lights with insulation. Result is the lights overheated and cut out. Get yer bum up in the loft and have a look.
:lol: :thumbs:


I took a looksy about 6 months back. The bulb holders themselves are all clear but not the transformers - they're all buried under the insulation.

That's Saturday morning booked up then - gets me out of the shopping trip :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,827 Posts
Probably the transformers then. Shopping can wait.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
Could be the bulb holders. Bathrooms are damp places and bulb holders hate damp. You probably know this already, but there are different grades of downlighters designed for use in different bathroom 'zones'. Zone 1 is directly above the bath / shower, zone 2 is next to it etc. I've seen bathrooms where fitters have used any old downlighters, not even intended for use in bathrooms, and the holders have corroded due to the moisture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,019 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Probably the transformers then. Shopping can wait.
Printed as evidence of 'approval granted' for my good lady :D

Could be the bulb holders. Bathrooms are damp places and bulb holders hate damp. You probably know this already, but there are different grades of downlighters designed for use in different bathroom 'zones'. Zone 1 is directly above the bath / shower, zone 2 is next to it etc. I've seen bathrooms where fitters have used any old downlighters, not even intended for use in bathrooms, and the holders have corroded due to the moisture.
Actually, that had never occurred to me, if I'm being honest. A quick check though has revealed no corrosion. So I'll be busy for at least *sucks in air and scratches chin* 3 hours tomorrow morning, checking the fittings in the loft :thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,280 Posts
mine are the same - one of the lights has gone altogether and another is a bit menstrual

been up in the loft and tightened all the connections - reckon one of the transformers must be shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,152 Posts
I'm merely passing this on as info I got from the electrician who (it has to be said successfully) fixed my downlighter problem a few years ago.

Apparently you have to match the transformer to the light fitting.

Hardly anybody does according to him. Loads of kitchen and bathroom fitters buy the bulk packs of downlighters and then a pack of transformers from somewhere else (Screwfix I assume).

Professional electricians who know their stuff :)rolleyes:) always buy matched units of transformers and downlighter fittings.

Might all be boo-hockey, but he came in 2 or even 3 years ago to address flickering downlighters in my kitchen which were less than 2 years old and what he fitted has never flickered or gone out of their own accord (which the previous lot did from time to time from new).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,154 Posts
My friend had his all converted to 240 volt as the electrician told him that the transformers always overheat and are useless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
My friend had his all converted to 240 volt as the electrician told him that the transformers always overheat and are useless.
In the fifteen years they've been there, I can't remember the last time that all 12 of the transformers powering our kitchen downlighters were working simultaneously.

They are soon to be replaced by 240s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,019 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I'm merely passing this on as info I got from the electrician who (it has to be said successfully) fixed my downlighter problem a few years ago.

Apparently you have to match the transformer to the light fitting.

Hardly anybody does according to him. Loads of kitchen and bathroom fitters buy the bulk packs of downlighters and then a pack of transformers from somewhere else (Screwfix I assume).

Professional electricians who know their stuff :)rolleyes:) always buy matched units of transformers and downlighter fittings.

Might all be boo-hockey, but he came in 2 or even 3 years ago to address flickering downlighters in my kitchen which were less than 2 years old and what he fitted has never flickered or gone out of their own accord (which the previous lot did from time to time from new).
My friend had his all converted to 240 volt as the electrician told him that the transformers always overheat and are useless.
In the fifteen years they've been there, I can't remember the last time that all 12 of the transformers powering our kitchen downlighters were working simultaneously.

They are soon to be replaced by 240s.
Interesting reading boys -thank you :thumbs:

I think I may have solved the issue but only time will tell.

1. The quality of light bulb used, also plays a part as well, it would seem. The bulbs fitted, were all Ever Ready (12V 35W). I tested them elsewhere and they still worked. So, I then used a couple of the spare GE bulbs we had knocking about and low and behold, they worked in the bathroom (12V 50W).

2. The connection type is via two pins that push into the small connector. I think there must be a problem over time, of the pins not making contact inside the connector. The spot lamps in the kitchen are different in design. They need to be pushed in slightly and then twisted clockwise to release the bulb. A much better connection (larger surface area) and a tighter, snug fit.

I might pop down to B & Q tomorrow (well, nothing else better to do ;) ) and see if its possible to buy the different connector type and then just re-wire them.


Thanks again for your feedback :thumbs:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,976 Posts
GU 10s are 240 volts. I've got them in the kitchen and shower room with no trouble at all. The only thing is that they can be a pain to change as there is no guide like with a conventional bayonet. If you get the pins lined up properly it's a doddle, but I have ended up pulling the fitting out just so I could see what I was doing.

You can now get led alternatives for the GU 10, not sure how much light they put out though and they are a good bit more expensive than the halaogen ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,335 Posts
You can now get led alternatives for the GU 10, not sure how much light they put out though and they are a good bit more expensive than the halaogen ones.
There are also dimmable GU10 LEDs, which will be going into the kitchen so I shall update this thread when it's finished :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
GU 10s are 240 volts. I've got them in the kitchen and shower room with no trouble at all. The only thing is that they can be a pain to change as there is no guide like with a conventional bayonet. If you get the pins lined up properly it's a doddle, but I have ended up pulling the fitting out just so I could see what I was doing.

You can now get led alternatives for the GU 10, not sure how much light they put out though and they are a good bit more expensive than the halaogen ones.
I'm sat under four LED GU10's right now and they are pretty good. Cost £10 each though :eek: Still, it has cut the (light) power consumption in this room from 200W to 16W. :thumbs:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
42,855 Posts
I'm sat under four LED GU10's right now and they are pretty good. Cost £10 each though :eek: Still, it has cut the (light) power consumption in this room from 200W to 16W. :thumbs:
I swapped the ones in my bathroom from standard GU10 240V 50W to LED 3W. Can't remember what Lumen they are but being 'day light' white they are alot brighter :D .... did cost £8 each though :eek:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,019 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I swapped the ones in my bathroom from standard GU10 240V 50W to LED 3W. Can't remember what Lumen they are but being 'day light' white they are alot brighter :D .... did cost £8 each though :eek:
The cost of 12V 50W GE bulbs aren't that far off what you paid.

I was put off buying the LED one's by the shop floor assistant, who said they wouldn't be as bright. Who's right and who's wrong then?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top