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Discussion Starter #1
can any one help? i have put lowered springs on my sud, but if i lower the back axal while the car is in the air, the springs drop out of their cups.do i have to put shorter shockers on? i hope this goes in the right spot cos these computers are new to me
 

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What I have done is the following:
1. drill holes into spring seat area on back beam in corner of elongated hole.
2. This should be roughly underneath a triangular piece of metal that sticks out joining the spring pan on the body to the chassis leg.
3. Cut a length of old seat belt and bolt it between the two holes so that on full droop it holds the back beam up stopping the spring coming out of seat.
Hope this makes sense.

rsfruitbat
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cheers i will give it a try, just as soon as i remove the wasp nest out of my garage.at the minute its a no go zone.
 

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Yep, put a limiting strap between the body and axle. I used narrow flat drive belt material (supplied by BLS Automotive in Linclon)
Cheers, Mark
 

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With a 33, I suggest a complete loop of seatbelt webbing around the axle on each side of the car, anchored to the body at each end.
I don't have any pics but have a look under the back of a 105 series coupe - they had something similar as standard from the factory.
Cheers,
Mark
 

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Hi Mark,
I dont get where to loop the strap on the body, without cutting and therefore causing rusting problems.
 

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Hi BigAl
On my S1 33 look at the spring mount housing onto the body. If you follow the rounded section back to the bodywork / chassis leg there is a small triangular plate mounted vertically on both sides. I have drilled this M8 and have had no problems so far (about 20yrs).

rsfruitbat
 

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why dont you just take the rear shock absorbers to a machine shop and make them shorter ?

Wont they even work better if they are shorter instead of tying the coil up :confused:
 

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@ supercharged
The shocks were shortened by Koni for an 80mm drop, I said I want them to work on a standard height setup and any mods to be reversable as well. They messed that up by cutting the length of the body of the shock instead of limiting the travel of the stantion tube and have about 30mm of play with my Eibachs!!
They also messed up my front 4 times and dont want them to touch my shocks unless they have to.
Koni's work the same along the lenght of their stroke.
If you take them to a machine shop then you have the possibility of the stantion tube being pushed in too far as it will now be too short.

@ RSFruitbat
I think I see where you mean
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k25/xGreekx/Alfasfasud sprint Rear axle/Picture024.jpg
Do you have any pics?
Did you make a slot and feed the belt through, I do worry about metal fatigue.
When you go round a corner, is there more force on the unloaded side or is it just like jacking the car up?
Thanks
Alan
 

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I just drilled a M8 hole and bolted it on. I didnt loop it around but cut a fixed length of seatbelt webbing and bolted it both ends.

Your picture shows exactly where I am on about. The triangle piece is where I drilled.

Had no metal fatigue.

When cornering hard the unloaded side just picks the wheel up and the weight is taken on the strap keeping the spring in place.

I havent got a picture but if you are still unsure I can try and take one over the weekend.

rsfruitbat
 

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A pic would be great, cheers, how do you make a hole in the seatbelt without it fraying, how to adjust the length, ect ect.
Thanks
 
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