[GTA Jono]

Since the very cold weather the door handles on my 156 have a tendency to stick. When I push the button on the handle in it gets stuck and will not pop out again without a bit of encouragement from the key in the hole.

Has anyone experienced this and is there a fix?

 

[rachelfretwell]

Halfords lock de-icer or WD40 or both

 

[GTA Jono]

Will de-icer help considering that the problem is still occuring in the mild weather?
Would you suggest just working in the WD40 from the outside?

 

[SnowAngel x]

I use silicon spray. WD40 traps dirt and over time makes it worse, getting into the lock mechanism. (or at least thats whats been said before)

 

[n3xus-cy]

i think silicon spray has the tendency to trap dirt..

 

[rachelfretwell]

We used the de-icer during the recent freeze and it significantly improved the action of the GTV door locks/push buttons. It appears to contain some lubricant or coating agent.

Use the red, plastic tube tosquirt the WD 40 between the barrel and the handle body, once it has got into the mechanism, wipe the button clean to stop dust etc. sticking to the barrel.

 

[kevjtd]

i tried all of the suggested ways but they only worked for a time.
the problem is where the gunk is, inside the mechanism which can only be reached by taking the handle off and cleaning thoroughly. mine had loads of old grease and dirt which causes the levers to stick.
i cleaned them in my parts cleaning tank then filled with a thin grease, now work a treat and if they last another 10 years before i have to strip them down i will be happy :lol:

 

[GTA Jono]

I have treaded the locks with Halfords De-Icer and some WD40. For now at least it seems to have worked a treat.

Thanks for the advice

 

[hessian]

i tried all of the suggested ways but they only worked for a time.
the problem is where the gunk is, inside the mechanism which can only be reached by taking the handle off and cleaning thoroughly. mine had loads of old grease and dirt which causes the levers to stick.
i cleaned them in my parts cleaning tank then filled with a thin grease, now work a treat and if they last another 10 years before i have to strip them down i will be happy :lol:

I also find WD40 is a temporary fix. Is there a guide to removing the handles ? Do you have to remove the whole door inlay from the inside first ?

 

[milowokie]

156.net have a full guide in the tips section.

great when I had to change door locks.

 

[hessian]

156.net have a full guide in the tips section.

great when I had to change door locks.

Thanks for the link. It mentions M27 Torx. Is that a typo, does he really mean T27 as M27 metric is a T100 or about 1"!

 

[kevjtd]

Thanks for the link. It mentions M27 Torx. Is that a typo, does he really mean T27 as M27 metric is a T100 or about 1"!

it is T27 torx bit :thumbs:

 

[kevjtd]

I also find WD40 is a temporary fix. Is there a guide to removing the handles ? Do you have to remove the whole door inlay from the inside first ?

yep. take the door card off, not that difficult

from memory.......

take the speaker cover off, remove 4 screws for speaker, then 2 more screws behind that.
one behind the blanking plug for the door handle cover/tweeter housing, slide that off.
pull off the cover at the front, opposite/behind the mirror if you see what i mean no screws, just clips give it a tug.
take out the cover in the bottom of the door closing recess, 2 allen/torx screws under there (can't remember if allen or torx, know there are allsorts in there). unplug the window switch connectors, all colour coded so you can't go wrong putting them back then remove the 2 10mm nuts that you can now see
unscrew the door lock button, not 100% sure if that needs to come off but i always do

think that is everything, but it was a coupld of weeks back and my memory is useless :lol:

start along the bottom and pull the door card away from it's clips along the bottom and both sides. when it is all free lift it all upsliding up the window so it comes off the top guide.

inside the door take the 3 or 4 screws from the black plastic housing and drop in the door bottom. then the 2 10mm nuts that hold on the window guide runner, again leave in the door bottom.


the door handle itself is held in by one 10mm nut from inside the door and one screw from the door end, think that might be the torx one

the link rods need unclipping, the long one pulls out at the top with a good pull, can't recall about the other one (or even now if there was 2 :lol

bit of a fiddle to get the whole handle out of the door, but it will come out, just be VERY careful not to scratch the door :tut:


once the handle is out you will find all manner of gunge & grease in the back, clean it out with carb cleaner or anything like gunk/de-greaser that will shift the mess.
once clean and dried then i put a small amount of thin grease, almost oil, inside. put don't skimp on getting it working smoothly before putting it back in, now you've got this far it needs to be right


build it all back up and smile everytime you go to the car and press the button in, it feels so much smoother and comes back out EVERY time, no need to reach for the WD40 and get streaks down the door anymore

 

[Tony777]

Try duck oil. Works for me. I also wipe a cloth with duck oil on it over the rubber door seals and the very edge of the windows as one morning, I could not push the door handle button in to open the door. I had to warm it up with a lighter, then I could not open the door as the door had frozen to the door rubber. Then I needed to open the window, but the window had frozen to the window rubber as well. A fitter at work suggested it to me and it works!