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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone who has successfully removed a starter motor tell me what combination of spanners/sockets you used? Because of the tight access around the bolts, I can't seem to get an extension socket to fit, and although I can just about get a spanner onto the upper nuts, there's no leverage to get any to break.

I need some inspiration for what to try next!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Joe90GT, thank you very much for emailing me your H2 guide, it makes the replacement process really clear and easy to follow.
I'm still unable to free the retaining bolts - mainly because of the severely limited access, and even when I can manage to get a spanner head close to fitting over a bolt, there's just no room to get enough leverage.
The space between the motor and the nuts is too small for a standard socket, and I've tried a lower profile "through" ratchet but there's not enough space around the bolt. If I use an extender, the side of the starter motor gets in the way and prevents a socket fitting.
I know I must be missing some obvious tool designed to do the job, and wondered if you or anyone else can suggest anything I could try next?
It might help if I removed the object circled in the photo below, but I'll admit I don't know what it is! and how easy/difficult it would be to do. It would create a bit more leverage space if nothing else.
 

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that is your ZF steering box
sounds like you have a rhd converted spider, they were always a bit cobbled together.
And in any case to remove that is a helluva lot of work....wouldn't go there!

when you say you cannot get a standard socket on the bolts, is that because the socket is too thick, or just no room for a socket, period? You can get thin wall sockets, which might help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
that is your ZF steering box
sounds like you have a rhd converted spider, they were always a bit cobbled together.
And in any case to remove that is a helluva lot of work....wouldn't go there!

when you say you cannot get a standard socket on the bolts, is that because the socket is too thick, or just no room for a socket, period? You can get thin wall sockets, which might help.
Yes, there's no room for the socket. I have managed it finally (see below) but now have a new headache!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, two steps forward then two back today:confused:

With a combination of some old spanners I borrowed from a neighbour, I eventually removed the old starter motor, and replaced it with a shiny new one. The new one was much easier to fit as it's quite a bit smaller than the old one.

I happily refitted the carbs, looking forward to a first time start up test...but when I came to turn the key, there was nothing - no clunk, whirr or anything!!

The battery's fine, and the dashboard lights come on when the key's turned, but there's no sign of the engine starting.

There's a photo below which I took before refitting the carbs. Is there anything really obvious anyone can spot that might be causing the problem now?

Also, are there any other possible culprits - fuses, connections etc which I can check?
 

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Is there an earth lead that was removed when the carbs were taken out? That's usually the most often forgotten item. Obviously check that the main lead is properly tightened
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there an earth lead that was removed when the carbs were taken out? That's usually the most often forgotten item. Obviously check that the main lead is properly tightened
There's what I think is an earth lead on the bottom left carb bolt- you can see it if you enlarge the latest photo, I re-hooked this when I fitted the carbs back.
On the starter motor, where the red and black cables are attached, there are 2 screws on the same bolt. I fitted the connectors between the 2 screws (unscrewed the top one, fited cables, then rescrewed the top one.) I'm wondering now whether the cables should have attached differently to get the best connection. Again you can see this on the photo.
 

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that is an earth lead but only an auxilary one by the look of it. I don't know how well you can see now the carbs are back but is it possible you've dislodged the solenoid wire while replacing the carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that is an earth lead but only an auxilary one by the look of it. I don't know how well you can see now the carbs are back but is it possible you've dislodged the solenoid wire while replacing the carbs?
I'll take the carbs off again and have a proper look. If the connections are in place, any ideas about where I should look next? I'm thinking the wiring between ignition and starter so I'll try and track down a wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another probably dumb question - should the red and black cabls attach to the same connection on the motor? That's how they were on the old one before I took it out, and I can't remember seeing an alternative connector on the new one.
 

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the wiring looks correct from here.
(and 4th photo here seems to be same as what you have)
Starter Motor Removal 86 Quadrifoglio

check that little spade connector, that is the one from the ignition switch.
what was the reason for changing the starter in the first place? Did it also do nothing when you turned the key?

btw, if you do remove the carbs again, I would perhaps renew that engine mount, it looks well squished...
and is way easier to do with carbs out of the way!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
the wiring looks correct from here.
(and 4th photo here seems to be same as what you have)
Starter Motor Removal 86 Quadrifoglio

check that little spade connector, that is the one from the ignition switch.
what was the reason for changing the starter in the first place? Did it also do nothing when you turned the key?

btw, if you do remove the carbs again, I would perhaps renew that engine mount, it looks well squished...
and is way easier to do with carbs out of the way!
In short, it wouldn't start after being garaged through the winter. It's always been a bit tricky to start from cold - it took quite a few attempts (5+) to get the engine to fire, and sometimes nothing would happen when the key turned. This latest time there was a bit of whirring and clunking at first, then nothing.
 

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when its dark out (or in the garage) try to start with the headlights on.....do the lights dim? (if so, starter is getting power, but something is sticking)
I mean it is not completely unheard of that a new starter is dud....alfa supplier part or fleabay?

OH and check the battery connections...you obviously removed the ground at the battery to take the starter off....did you really tighten it back on?.....if your battery is in the boot, check also the ground bolted to the floor.
check the battery is good.....a poor battery will allow dash lights etc to come on, but will do nothing when you turn key to start. If in doubt jump the battery or charge overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'll definitely try that later thank you. I bought the starter new from Classic Alfa.
 

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If you're sure the wires are correct, turn your attention to the ignition switch..... I had one on my first 105 that went bad and gave the same problem as you've described.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
when its dark out (or in the garage) try to start with the headlights on.....do the lights dim? (if so, starter is getting power, but something is sticking)
I mean it is not completely unheard of that a new starter is dud....alfa supplier part or fleabay?

OH and check the battery connections...you obviously removed the ground at the battery to take the starter off....did you really tighten it back on?.....if your battery is in the boot, check also the ground bolted to the floor.
check the battery is good.....a poor battery will allow dash lights etc to come on, but will do nothing when you turn key to start. If in doubt jump the battery or charge overnight.
I've just tried to start with the lights on, and they definitely dim when the key is turned, but there's still nothing happening.
I double checked the battery ground and re-tightened the connections and all seem ok. The battery is producing strong power when I checked with a volt meter.
When you say something is sticking, what could that be?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you're sure the wires are correct, turn your attention to the ignition switch..... I had one on my first 105 that went bad and gave the same problem as you've described.
Thanks for the tip GTA R. What was the process like to fix the ignition switch?
 

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I've just tried to start with the lights on, and they definitely dim when the key is turned, but there's still nothing happening.
I double checked the battery ground and re-tightened the connections and all seem ok. The battery is producing strong power when I checked with a volt meter.
When you say something is sticking, what could that be?
starter jammed for instance.
you put the special shoulder bolt back in the middle hole, right? (that one bolt aligns the whole thing correctly to flywheel)
your starter was correct for your flywheel? 8 tooth v's 9 tooth etc, depending what flywheel you have 130/131 teeth or whatever it is....?

Try putting the car in gear (5th) and then pushing it a few feet.... (maybe the solenoid shot out the very first start attempt and got stuck)...
 
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