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Discussion Starter #1
Fitting de cat tomorrow so thoughts are now heading towards induction, the standard TS airfilter is big, makes me think that ALFA put a bit of thought into the induction to begin with, that said there are usually trade offs i.e. they had to cater for the car being driven in a sand storm, so "maybe" flow is somewhat below where it could be, anyway i just thought how about fitting standard V6 induction , the 3.0 V6 obviously needs more air so it should be more than adequate for a 2.0 TS, is there any reason the standard V6 kit couldnt be re-plumbed into a TS, would get away from the MAF/oiled performance filter prob.
 

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Hi there, if you do a search, some owners, including myself remove the resonator boxes from the inlet pipe.
This is the bit of plastic on the inlet pipe that hangs down off it and goes nowhere.

It's an easy mod, I just hacked it off and glued a patch over the hole, but others replace the pipe with fancy chrome. I steered clear of replacing this pipe, as I didn't want the air heating up if I used a metal pipe, the engine bay gets very hot.

I then replaced the OE filter with a Autodelta filter (I wanted the free sticker!) that fits into the OE airbox, but you could use K&N, Green etc. If you clean and re oil these correctly there's no problem with oiling up the maff, Good quality filter oil is super tacky and you use very little.
This keeps the bay looking standard, lets the engine breath a little better, but keeps the induction roar down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seems reasonable!, was thinking of using standard box with a cone filter inside as itacarboy has done, but just thought tonight that the 3.0 breathes a lot more air so it would remove any doubt over is it getting all the air it needs,.... yeah the shiney pipe owners will argue that the chrome reflects the heat! (although the standard box is black (absorbs heat) my guess is material is thick enough to insulate)
 

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The Autodelta filter is a dry filter, so no oil there anyway and fits the standard airbox
Autodelta Shop

You'll probably find the airbox lid bolts are knackered. They screw into a insert in the lower part of the box. I drill through and fitted wing nuts underneath.
 
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Are you going to do before and after dyno runs?

Rumour has it the TS air intake is not restrictive (or at most is only holding back a couple of bhp).

Does the resonator not help air flow? By that I mean compensate for shockwaves travelling back up the intake path (and taking the air back up the wrong way) which could cause flat spots?
 

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Whatever it did, it doesn't do it any more! but I thought it reduced induction noise rather than anything else.

The cylinders will only take so much air/petrol mixture without forcing it in, you could have a 3 foot wide pipe, it'll still draw only the air it needs, what you're trying to achieve is a constant, uninterrupted flow of cold (dense), filtered air.
 
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The cylinders will only take so much air/petrol mixture without forcing it in, you could have a 3 foot wide pipe, it'll still draw only the air it needs, what you're trying to achieve is a constant, uninterrupted flow of cold (dense), filtered air.
Its the uninterrupted-ness :)lol:) of the air I'd be worried about blanking off resonators.. Inlet valves bouncing up and down could cause all sorts of turbulence that has to be controlled somehow.

But then again if the resonator makes it quieter perhaps its just there to give a bit more induction roar :D
 

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the V6 air filter is only about 3% bigger than the TS one, so would imagine it's not worth changing. I'm a big fan of putting a replacement high flow filter in the standard box though
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you going to do before and after dyno runs?

Rumour has it the TS air intake is not restrictive (or at most is only holding back a couple of bhp).

Does the resonator not help air flow? By that I mean compensate for shockwaves travelling back up the intake path (and taking the air back up the wrong way) which could cause flat spots?
Between all the mods i intend to dyno , so tomorrow is decat and next week dyno run, its a bit of an expensive way of going about things but i think it will be useful info to me and others, dynoed a couple of weeks ago at 153bhp and 137.5 lbft,standard apart from jpx stainless cat back. we will get figures for each mod, but as i am not re mapping til the end we wont see what each mods individual max potential would have been on its own i.e. de cat+remap=x.
 
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I found this
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...induction-modification-with-good-results.html

If that's the case about the resonators Kungfu, they'd be a lot of knackered cars fitted with these BMC induction kits that replace all the pipe work, but they seem to sell quite a lot of them.
I wasn't suggesting it would completely knacker it now was I?

All the talk on here has been fairly subjective and there's always the ever present spectre of the placebo effect !

I'd be very grateful to see msgtv's dyno results :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wasn't suggesting it would completely knacker it now was I?

All the talk on here has been fairly subjective and there's always the ever present spectre of the placebo effect !

I'd be very grateful to see msgtv's dyno results :)
Heres the original, de cat tomorrow and hopefully dyno next week, very busy at mo but will endeavour to get there.
 

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Sorry there, I wasn't attacking what you wrote!
The point of this was that there was an alternative to a expensive induction system like the BMC, which is to make your own with what's already there, and what would be the aims, ie, to remove resistance and feed cold air to the engine, and as a bonus, have a reusable filter (green eh)

I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to achieve the same results and I'm sure if you spent a few more coins they'd be more effective, my personal fav would be to force air in with a couple of turbos, running intercoolers sprayed with chilled Champagne, but the Mrs says it's Evian or nothing!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry there, I wasn't attacking what you wrote!
The point of this was that there was an alternative to a expensive induction system like the BMC, which is to make your own with what's already there, and what would be the aims, ie, to remove resistance and feed cold air to the engine, and as a bonus, have a reusable filter (green eh)

I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to achieve the same results and I'm sure if you spent a few more coins they'd be more effective, my personal fav would be to force air in with a couple of turbos, running intercoolers sprayed with chilled Champagne, but the Mrs says it's Evian or nothing!
I had a similar response from my missus when i proposed connecting the standard GTV airbox to a lambo V12 engine as a performance upgrade.
 

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It'd be intersting to see the results of a standard intake and an induction kit, back to back. I wouldn't be surprised if there not much difference between standard, BMC, and a home made system.
I just prefer the reusable element in a standard airbox, a couple of services and it's paid for it's self, if you need to claim on the insurance, you haven't got some accessor claiming you never told them you modified it either and like I said earlier, I got a free sticker!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry there, I wasn't attacking what you wrote!
The point of this was that there was an alternative to a expensive induction system like the BMC, which is to make your own with what's already there, and what would be the aims, ie, to remove resistance and feed cold air to the engine, and as a bonus, have a reusable filter (green eh)

I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to achieve the same results and I'm sure if you spent a few more coins they'd be more effective, my personal fav would be to force air in with a couple of turbos, running intercoolers sprayed with chilled Champagne, but the Mrs says it's Evian or nothing!
It'd be intersting to see the results of a standard intake and an induction kit, back to back. I wouldn't be surprised if there not much difference between standard, BMC, and a home made system.
I just prefer the reusable element in a standard airbox, a couple of services and it's paid for it's self, if you need to claim on the insurance, you haven't got some accessor claiming you never told them you modified it either and like I said earlier, I got a free sticker!
Sticker option is tempting, gotta be said!.
 
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The Autodelta filter is a dry filter, so no oil there anyway and fits the standard airbox
Autodelta Shop

You'll probably find the airbox lid bolts are knackered. They screw into a insert in the lower part of the box. I drill through and fitted wing nuts underneath.
Sorry, don't want to hijack the tread, but my airbox lid screws are knackered with rust and I want to change the filter. Sounds like a good solution. Did you remove the whole airbox from the car to do this?

Cheers :)
 
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Sorry there, I wasn't attacking what you wrote!
The point of this was that there was an alternative to a expensive induction system like the BMC, which is to make your own with what's already there, and what would be the aims, ie, to remove resistance and feed cold air to the engine, and as a bonus, have a reusable filter (green eh)
Sorry - misunderstanding :).

I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to achieve the same results and I'm sure if you spent a few more coins they'd be more effective, my personal fav would be to force air in with a couple of turbos, running intercoolers sprayed with chilled Champagne, but the Mrs says it's Evian or nothing!
Nice :thumbs: although you'd lose a bit of power keeping the Champagne chilled..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Doh!, just got back from garage, they cant fit de-cat cos the bolts on the front box are virtually rotted away, they cant fit new bolts cos they are captive and no space to get bolts in, i did intend to leave front box in incase things were getting too loud but now to hell with it i'm ordering a straight thru to replace the front box and solve the prob that way, if its too loud its too loud :)
 

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I've repaired two airboxes, one on my Spider and one on a mates 156, so I'm a little hazey to what I did with which.
But I think it went like this.

The 156 I removed the lid and carefully drilled a hole through each hole in the lower part of the airbox, the drill bit end will come out inside the airbox, I sent longer bolts upwards from inside the box, through the holes, lid back on and span the nuts on top of the lid. I drilled the holes out carefully, so not to be to large, so they'd grip the new bolts, otherwise they'd fall in the box before you got the lid on, as you can't get hold of them inside the box.

With my Spider, I removed the lid and drilled out the bolt holes in the lower part, I drilled all the way through as before, but unlike the 156 the drill bit end doesn't end up inside the airbox, but outside under the lip, then you can put the lid back on, run longer bolts down through and reach under the lip on the outside and spin wing nuts on.

Before you put it all back together, vacuum out the swarf from the airbox.
 
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