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Discussion Starter #1
Is it much of a job to change all 4 springs on mine (156 Saloon):confused:

Changed springs on loads of cars before but they have always had a rear beam axel

Cheers
 

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It means you have to take all four struts out.

Fronts aren't too bad but the lower strut fork is likely to be frozen (alloy/steel). You'll also have to remove the droplink at the strut end and two nuts hold it to the shell at the top. Then it should drop out.

At the rear you have to remove two large bolts running through the hub assembly (including a very long one at the bottom holding the transverse arms) and the trailing arm to hub bush. Again these can stick. Not had a rear out, but I would guess the top mount could be a pain!

Then compress each spring, remove top mounts, swap spring and rebuild times 4!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers

might wait till the weathers a bit nicer then as the rear sounds a bit of a pain!
 

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I took the hub off at the weekend to fix a bearing. As I've replaced the hub bush and transverse arms those two weren't bad, but the one at the top was a PITA ... and I didn't want to knock it out too hard in case I damaged the threads. I would have replaced it, but didn't know it was going to come off when I started.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did the front upper arm and drop links last year so happy enough those will all come off okay suppose the rear will give me something to look forward too!

wish i had a two post lift..................
 
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Make sure you use spring compressors before removing all four, its a lot easier as there will be no down pressure pushing on the joints, just the weight of the strut itself.:)

If you are sure of a date when you are going to do it, soak the alloy/ steel crimping joint on the bottom of the front strut to the main hub with "Plusgas" the day before and a second soak an hour before hand. It will come out very easily then, dont bother with WD40, plusgas knocks the hell out of WD40 when it comes to releasing siezed joints and bolts:thumbs:

For awkward nuts that never seem to budge no matter what you do :rolleyes:. I personally use a camping gas canister type blowtorch (homebase do a good one) assuming that there is no rubber boot or nylon nut thread to worry about, works a treat:D

One last tip:
Invest in a nut/bolt wind out type ball joint removal tool instead of the brute force chisel type, it will save you money in the long run by avoiding damaging the little rubber ball joint boots.

Also leave the nuts loose on all the ball joint threads until the ball joint has released properly. It prevents damage to the end of the threads, a nut can be replaced easily, a damaged thread is a true PITA to sort out if its damaged... Good luck:thumbs:
 
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Jon.... You look far too happy with a hacksaw cutting through that drop link mate:lol:
:D
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Hey your not too far from me so if you need a hand, mind I am going to be changing my 147 suspension when the weather warms up:rolleyes:
 

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Looks like you had a fun day! should all chip in and buy a 2 post alfa owner ramp:thumbs:




Got both of them mate!




Dont tempt me mate, nice set of bilstein's...........
billies tend to be firmer dampened than most aftermarket

go for a set of non adjustable koni's and enjoy ride handling ,,,,,,,,,furthermore save you fitting them and stripping suspension again:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hey your not too far from me so if you need a hand, mind I am going to be changing my 147 suspension when the weather warms up:rolleyes:
Dont tempt me, any work I do gets done in Whitley Bay anyway (I dont have a drive at mine so i keep all my tools at my parents who do:))

billies tend to be firmer dampened than most aftermarket

go for a set of non adjustable koni's and enjoy ride handling ,,,,,,,,,furthermore save you fitting them and stripping suspension again:thumbs:
You've got me thinking now:lol:
 
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for the rear hubs there are 2 bolts that run tho them, both are exposed to the elements so approx 3 " & will be rusted.

i find that using a thin wire brush, heat & loads of old oil &/or wd40 is needed in order to get these bolts out. if you can get the top [ shorter ] bolt out 1st it'll help to to get better access to the bottom [ longer ] bolt.

The top bolt is a 19mm headed bolt which can be turned using a socket. the bottom bolt is usually a strange shaped headed bolt onto which you can fit a 15mm spanner or visegrip which limits the tools available to grip it. therefore you'll need to free it up alot more than the top bolt.

also one you get a bolt turning be sure to clean the exposed area with the wire brush, lube it well & then try removing it, don't be afraid to hit it IN/OUT a few times cleaning the bolts exposed surface each time. it could take 5 to 10 min's to remove each bolt.
 
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