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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have noticed that my brakes on my 156 sportwagon are not the best, they make a sort of grinding noise when braking from low speed or with light pedal pressure and seem to fade quickly when braking from speed.

So I had a look today and think I may have spotted the issue, as can be seen on the pictures the pads and disks are good, infact the pads look almost new. However it looks to me that the new pads have been fitted to old disks, and whoever fitted them did not file a taper on the pads, if you look in the pictures they seem to kiss the disk as it spins.
The disk makes the noise when turning it by hand also.

So my questions are, would you agree the pads need filing? I cleaned the disk with electrical contact spray (degreaser) but typically could not service the disks as I don't have a 7mm allen socket :rant:
I want to take the calipers off, remove the pads and file a taper on them, then clean up the pad guides and piston slides ect.

Would that sort the issue? can't think what else it would be? :confused:

While I was at it I lubed up all the bushes, is it me or does the lower wishbone arm look fairly recent?

Ta
 

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yes wot u are planning to do would work.......id also chip all the rust off the outer edge of disk if there is a build up and with a rough fill try flatten the edge
 

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Budget discs?

Look at the inside surface of the discs, if budget discs have been fitted in the past you can guarantee they will be badly corroded on the inside even if the outside surface looks in good order, this is the sorce of the grinding noise. I`m not sure why this happens but having a little knowledge of casting techniques, I think it may be because the inferior metal used in these castings have a lot of contaminates and they rise to the top of the casting while cooling, the inside surface of the disc would be the top of the cast. Just a theory!
 

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Have you measured the discs?
They look close to wornout, possibly past worn-out (difficult to tell from the pics).
1mm of allowable wear on each face and the inner face will probably go first.

22mm when new, down to a minimum of 20mm.
 

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Just a further point: This corrosion happens regardless of whether the car has been in constant use or not, the friction surface of the disc literally comes away. Some of the cheap parts you get on a certain auction site are not worth getting even if they have a brand name, I have found to my cost, they can often be counterfeit parts and thus will not last or perform as they should.
 

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Hi all, I have noticed that my brakes on my 156 sportwagon are not the best, they make a sort of grinding noise when braking from low speed or with light pedal pressure and seem to fade quickly when braking from speed.

So I had a look today and think I may have spotted the issue, as can be seen on the pictures the pads and disks are good, infact the pads look almost new. However it looks to me that the new pads have been fitted to old disks, and whoever fitted them did not file a taper on the pads, if you look in the pictures they seem to kiss the disk as it spins.
The disk makes the noise when turning it by hand also.

So my questions are, would you agree the pads need filing? I cleaned the disk with electrical contact spray (degreaser) but typically could not service the disks as I don't have a 7mm allen socket :rant:
I want to take the calipers off, remove the pads and file a taper on them, then clean up the pad guides and piston slides ect.

Would that sort the issue? can't think what else it would be? :confused:

While I was at it I lubed up all the bushes, is it me or does the lower wishbone arm look fairly recent?

Ta
You have to take the things apart to fix them.:p
A small hammer is excellent to remove the rusty outer rim on the disc.
Sanding paper is excellent to remove larger deposits on the pads and to even the surface often the inner pads and disc part are most worn.
remove any grease with brake clean spray.
I have the same type of car.:)
Se this very good site :
https://sites.google.com/site/alfaromeo156brakesfront/
and : https://sites.google.com/site/alfaromeo156brakesrear/
you'll be surpriced how much it means to the feeling of the brake pedal if you fix front and rear brakes.
William Lütken
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the tips everyone, good guide William :thumbs:

I had to quit today as my trolley jack decided to fail :tut: and I wasn't about to risk it!

So went to halfrauds today and forked out £30 for a new jack and £4 for a 7mm allen socket. I plan tommorow to completely strip the brakes, I will get the disks off as well so I can have a good look at them.

If I remove the rust crust from the edge of the disk will I be able to get away with not filing the pads?
 

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replace your discs and pads they are well past their best 1000's miles ago :rolleyes: actually they are shot


do you take passengers ,do you take family ..kids in car ..do you drive on road:wow: hate for you to be behind me on road :tut:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What makes you suggest they are past their best? The pads have loads left on them and the lip on the disk is minimal... what am I seeming to miss that you can see?
 

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What makes you suggest they are past their best? The pads have loads left on them and the lip on the disk is minimal... what am I seeming to miss that you can see?
experience just lookin at your pics......disc manufacturers DONT have a lip on discs ill upload pics of discs that are past their best and YOU can compare as davidc says 2 mm wear.. and inner always wears more because of thrust side
 

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these are in better condition than yours and they are past best ...i assume new pads where put on old discs thus how much meat left on your pad ....modern pads tend to wear disc more so know days

soory disc not shiney cars been sitting for a month
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess that rings true as the pads clearly haven't been filed properly... looks like I will be getting new D&P's on pay day...figured I may as well change the brake fluid while i'm at it. This raises a couple of questions:

1) What fluid do I need to put in? Dot 5, 5.1, ect?

2) What is the easiest way to change the fluid? when I worked at EMG Ford (years ago) they had a air powered suction thingy, all I had to do was suck the fluid out the reservoir, refill with new stuff, then suck the fluid through each bleed valve untill the whole system had new fluid in and was bleed. I don't have a compressor or said tool, but I imagine the process is similar, fill the reservoir to the brim, mate in the seat with pressure on pedal and bleed out, do on all 4 valves until bleed and system filled with fresh fluid. Is this right?
 

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Thanks for the tips everyone, good guide William :thumbs:

I had to quit today as my trolley jack decided to fail :tut: and I wasn't about to risk it!

So went to halfrauds today and forked out £30 for a new jack and £4 for a 7mm allen socket. I plan tommorow to completely strip the brakes, I will get the disks off as well so I can have a good look at them.

If I remove the rust crust from the edge of the disk will I be able to get away with not filing the pads?
If you let the rust in place, a new pad will instantly be grooved by the rust,so remove the outer and inner rust rim with a small hammer , an angle grinder and flap disc is perfect to finish the job.Then add new pads if you need to.If old pads are to be reinstalled proceed as follows : :)
Sand the pads by hand on an even surface,untill even surface.
remember that whenever you do this or install new parts or parts that have been altered on the surface ( sanding/filing ), they have to align perfectly to work at their best.
Installing new parts is of course an ideal option.Degrease the parts.
Let the parts be worn gentley together untill all the very fine grooves in the discs and pads fit together then your brakes will work.:thumbs:
William Lütken
 

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the rust in the area mentioned is down to heat cycles and conditions .....this is the heat affected zone and remember steel is pourus

so replace !
 

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I guess that rings true as the pads clearly haven't been filed properly... looks like I will be getting new D&P's on pay day...figured I may as well change the brake fluid while i'm at it. This raises a couple of questions:

1) What fluid do I need to put in? Dot 5, 5.1, ect?

2) What is the easiest way to change the fluid? when I worked at EMG Ford (years ago) they had a air powered suction thingy, all I had to do was suck the fluid out the reservoir, refill with new stuff, then suck the fluid through each bleed valve untill the whole system had new fluid in and was bleed. I don't have a compressor or said tool, but I imagine the process is similar, fill the reservoir to the brim, mate in the seat with pressure on pedal and bleed out, do on all 4 valves until bleed and system filled with fresh fluid. Is this right?
bleeding is as follows ..furthest rear caliper from master cylinder and diagnally opposite front then opposite rear then diagnally opposing front
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for that davids :p

I googled it and it seems dot 5.1 alt blue is recommended, so I guess I will use that.
Something was mentioned about bleeding the clutch also, how does one go about that? I want to do the job properly!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another question (sorry!) Where is the best place for cheap parts?
I don't usually skimp on parts but have to this year....also it's only a 1.6 and doesn't get driven hard, so as long as they last a year i'm not too fussed
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks David C, all in i'm looking at £63 would anyone happen to know a discount code for a few quid off? Would be appreciated
 
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